3 Days in Edinburgh: A Casual Guide to Doing It Properly

You'll want to stay at The Balmoral—not because it’s the most expensive option (though it is), but because there’s something slightly absurd and wonderful about a hotel that keeps its clock tower three minutes fast just to help people catch trains. It’s been doing that since 1902. The rooms are done in these heathery purples and blues that should feel dated but don’t, and honestly, after a long flight, you could do worse than ordering room service and staring at Edinburgh Castle from your window.

Don’t schedule anything for the afternoon. Seriously. Jet lag is real, and there’s a peculiar pleasure in watching Princes Street from a warm room while the Scottish weather does whatever it’s doing outside.

Later, wander down to the SCOTCH bar. They have over 500 whiskies, which feels overwhelming until you realize the bartenders actually want to help you find something you’ll like, not just the most expensive bottle. I started with something from Bold Islay and immediately regretted it. I’m not huge on super-smoky whiskeys. The bartenders learned and the second recommendation was perfect.

Dinner at Number One, the hotel’s restaurant. It’s got four AA Rosettes, which apparently means something, but more importantly, the food tastes like someone cared about it (real care). Scottish langoustines, venison, that sort of thing that makes it feel both authentic and intentional.

Morning: Edinburgh Castle

Yes, it's touristy. Yes, you should do it anyway, but book a private tour. Having someone who actually knows the difference between the various Stuarts makes the Crown Jewels and the Stone of Destiny feel less like museum pieces and more like... well, destiny, I suppose. The private bit matters because you can ask the questions you’re embarrassed to ask in a group (“So which Mary was which, again?”).

Lunch is tricky around the Castle. Everything nearby is either terrible or overpriced or both. Walk down the Royal Mile—it’s downhill, which helps—and have lunch at The Witchery by the Castle. I know, I know, the name is a lot. But the building dates to the 16th century, and the dining rooms are all oak paneling and candlelight and red velvet. It should feel gimmicky. It doesn’t. Yes, it’s a popular spot, but for good reason. The food is solid Scottish classics—steak, lobster, heavy sauces. The kind of meal that makes you want to nap, which is fine because you’re on vacation.

Afternoon: Wander

The Royal Mile is full of closes—those narrow alleyways that lead off to who-knows-where. Some end in courtyards, some in pubs, some in sudden views of the city. It’s okay to get a little lost here. That's kind of the point. Check out Dundar's Close for a peaceful garden respite.

Evening: Keep it light

Maybe drinks at The Dome on George Street. The Georgian Tea Room does afternoon tea until 5 pm if you want to pretend you're being civilized, but the main bar is impressive in that slightly over-the-top way that New Town does well. Corinthian columns, massive chandeliers. It feels like eating inside a bank vault, in a good way.

Take a taxi down to Leith. Everyone says "oh, Leith is so up-and-coming” like it's a new discovery, but it's been up and come already. It's just... settled into itself now. The waterfront is nice for walking, especially if the weather's behaving, which it probably isn't (but that can make it more fun).

Lunch in Leith

You have options for lunch, and this is where I contradict myself slightly. The Kitchin is the obvious choice—Tom Kitchin's flagship, Michelin star since 2007, "from nature to plate" philosophy. It's excellent. The tasting menu is around £155, and you'll get things like Highland wagyu tartare and Newhaven lobster. The dining room is dark and serious in that contemporary fine-dining way.

But honestly? Restaurant Martin Wishart might be the better meal, without any real sacrifice. It's been around for over 20 years, which in restaurant years is ancient. The cooking is French-Scottish, technically perfect, and there’s something reassuring about a place that doesn’t need to prove itself anymore. The six-course tasting menu is £135, lunch is cheaper. It's closed Sundays through Tuesdays though, so plan accordingly. I mention this because I once showed up on a Monday and stood outside like an idiot.

Alternatively, if you want something completely different, Prestonfield House is technically in Edinburgh but feels like you've been driven to the countryside. James Thomson owns it (he also owns The Witchery) and it's this 17th-century mansion surrounded by gardens with peacocks (when the weather suits them) wandering around. The restaurant is called Rhubarb. The afternoon tea here is supposedly spectacular, though I've never managed to book it far enough in advance. Dinner is theatrical, opulent, slightly ridiculous. In other words, *perfect* for a special occasion.

Evening

For the later bit of the day, if you're still in Leith, there are a few decent cocktail bars along the shore, so have some fun exploring those.

If you're back in the city center, just walk. Edinburgh at night, especially the Old Town, feels properly old. The streetlights are yellow, the buildings are tall and dark, and you half-expect to hear horse hooves on cobblestones. There are haunted bits, so you might hear things you don't exactly expect.