An All-Encompassing Tour of Croatia

ZAGREB

Start your tour in Zagreb, the capital of Croatia, a beautiful city in the northeast which is not as well-known as popular cities along the coast. These are a few reasons why you should include it in your tour. Zagreb has more museums per square foot than any other city in the world. So this city has much to offer art, history and culture buffs. It is also a very walkable city and is well-known for its Austro-Hungarian architecture of the 18th and 19th-century. Zagreb is divided into two main parts: Gornji grad (Upper Town) and Donji grad (Lower Town.) In these areas, you’ll find the majority of the cultural attractions, restaurants and bars.

The narrow, cobblestoned streets of Upper Town form the medieval core of the city. This area is where many significant religious sites are located, including Zagreb Cathedral, the Gothic twin-spired landmark that can be seen from almost anywhere in the city; St. Mark’s Square and St. Mark’s Church, known for its colourful tiled roof; and St. Catherine’s Church, a great example of Baroque architecture. There are also many cafes and restaurants where you can simply sit back and watch the world go by after a long day of sightseeing.

Zagreb’s Lower Town is a typical busy city centre where people gather for concerts, festivals and sporting events. This area is home to designer shops art galleries, museums and parks.

The Museum of Broken Relationships, located in a lovely Baroque palace, showcases a variety of interesting objects from real-life broken relationships.

The Mimara Museum, housed in a beautiful 19th-century palace in the heart of the city, contains works by some of the world’s best-known artists, including Canaletto, Delacroix, Goya, Rubens and many others.

The Zagreb 80’s Museum is located in an old building in the historic city centre and it is unlike anything you’ve seen before. The goal is to recreate everyday life in the former Yugoslavia and it is totally interactive – guests are welcome to touch and interact with the installations.

The Croatian Museum of Naïve Art features the work of naïve artists, those without formal education and training in the arts. There are over 1,900 works of art including paintings, drawings and printed works mostly by Croatian artists. Founded in 1952 as the Peasant Art Gallery, this is the first museum in the world dedicated to the work of naïve artists.

The Museum of Arts and Crafts, located in Lower Town, features art from the 14th to the 21st century including furniture, sculpture, ceramics, graphic art, photography and equipment, fashion, musical instruments and lots more. The museum was established in 1880 and is one of the earliest museums of its kind in all of Europe, it is now considered one of Croatia’s most important national cultural institutions. Its mandate is to preserve traditional values and national crafts.

The Archaeological Museum in Zagreb, housed in the 19th-century Vranyczany-Hafner mansion, holds more than 450,000 artifacts and monuments, mostly Croatian and especially from Zagreb and surrounding areas. The museum is located in the city centre and consists of five main areas: Prehistory, Egypt, Antiquity, Middle Ages, Coins and Medals.

Bogovićeva Street is where many locals start their day at one of the many coffee shops found in this area. Café culture is a big thing in Croatia, and in Zagreb, people are known to sit for hours enjoying a cup of coffee and fresh cakes, just watching people go by.

The Zagreb Funicular is famous for being the shortest funicular in the world at just 66 metres long. This very short ride (60 seconds) will take you from Lower Town to Upper Town and is the oldest form of public transportation in the city.

Ban Josip Jelačić Square in Lower Town is a lovely urban square that essentially joins the Upper and Lower Towns in the heart of Zagreb. The north and south ends of the square are lined by Classical and Art Deco buildings, on the west end is Ilica Boulevard, where you’ll find great shops, and on the north end is Dolac Market, offering flowers and fresh local food. The square is lined by many cafés where you can stop to rest and people-watch.

Day trip from Zagreb

Plitvice Lakes National Park is one of the country’s most popular attractions and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Approximately a two-hour drive from Zagreb, this woodland park spans 300 square kilometres and is home to sixteen lakes, several waterfalls and many wild animals, including deer, wolves, bears, boars and rare birds. The park is open year-round though it does have longer hours during the summer tourist season. Although this is an easy drive from Zagreb, you could also choose to stay close to Plitvice National Park, as there are a few hotels and a campsite close to the park entrance.

SPLIT

Croatia’s second-largest and perhaps best-known city, Split is located directly on the Adriatic Coast and you can easily drive here from Zagreb in approx. 4hrs. The city’s historic name is Spalato and it was once home to the Roman emperor Diocletian, who built a palace here in 305 AD. Originally founded as a Greek colony in the 3rd or 2nd century BC, Split became a Roman settlement ca. 650 AD, later a Byzantine city, and for a time, it was part of the Venetian Republic. Conflicts led to the city being part of the Habsburg monarchy, the Kingdom of Italy, the French Empire, the Austrian Empire and eventually part of Yugoslavia. There is no shortage of historical sites to visit in Split, so you’ll likely want to spend at least three days here.

Diocletian’s Palace is a UNESCO World Heritage Site built in 305 AD for the Roman Emperor Diocletian, who originally intended it as his retirement residence. This massive complex is right in the center of the Old Town of Split and looks more like a fortress. While part of it was for Diocletian’s personal use, the rest was home to a military garrison. The best things to see within the Palace include the Peristyle (essentially a courtyard in the centre of the Palace,) the Cardo (the main street in the Palace) and the cellar. Fans of Game of Thrones may recognize the cellar as the place where Daenerys housed her dragons while she was in Meereen.

To get the best views of Split, be sure to climb the Bell Tower of Saint Domnius Cathedral. The oldest Catholic cathedral in the world that is still in use, Saint Domnius was consecrated at the turn of the 7th century AD. Named after Saint Domnius, the patron saint of Split, the cathedral itself was built in 305 AD as the Mausoleum of Diocletian. The bell tower was constructed in 1100 AD in the Romanesque style, though many of the original Romanesque sculptures were removed during a rebuilding phase.

The charming Old Town of Split, with its cobblestoned streets lined by cafes and restaurants, surrounds Diocletian’s Palace. This is a great area to spend some time walking and admiring the variety of architectural styles in the heart of the city. It’s also the perfect place to stop for a rest and a bite to eat.

If you enjoy wandering and people-watching, you’ll also want to visit the Riva Promenade along the harbour. Full of palm trees, views of the Adriatic and lots of colourful buildings, this is a popular area for locals and tourists alike. You’ll also find lots of restaurants and cafes with outdoor seating.

The medieval Klis Fortress, which now lies in ruins on a hillside overlooking Split, was the site of battles between Knights Templar, Ottomans and Mongols. Game of Thrones fans might also recognize this site as one of the film locations for Meereen.

Wine aficionados might enjoy a visit to Putalj Winery, only 20 minutes outside of Split. They offer pick-up and drop-off in central Split for an afternoon wine tour, and reservations must be booked well in advance. In addition to touring the vineyard and tasting current wines, you’ll be able to sample the olive oil produced by Putalj.

Foodies might enjoy Split Cooking Class, where an English-speaking chef will take you to the local fish and fruit and vegetable markets to shop for fresh ingredients, then teach you how to cook delicious Dalmatian dishes accompanied by local wines. Allergies and dietary restrictions can be accommodated, just be sure to let them know in advance.

Day trips:

Trogir: Only 35 minutes’ drive by car or bus, or a one-hour ferry ride, the city of Trogir is located on a small island between the mainland and the island of Ciovo. The well-preserved old town is known for its Renaissance, Baroque and Romanesque buildings, so if you’re an art history buff, make sure you spend at least a few hours here. Some of the things you’ll want to see in Trogir include: the historical city centre, with an abundance of churches and buildings dating back to the 13th century, the old city gate (17th century) and city walls (15th century), the Kamerlengo Fortress (15th century), the Duke’s Palace (13th century) and the Cathedral (13th century).

HVAR

Traveling from Split to Hvar by ferry will take approx. 1 hour, so you can easily do this as a day trip, but you’ll likely enjoy spending a couple of days on this island, which is known for its glamorous nightlife, sandy beaches and crystal-clear waters. In addition to spending time at the beach, plan to visit the hilltop Fortica Fortress, Hvar Cathedral, the 13th-century city walls and the lavender fields. Although this is primarily a summer destination, the mild winters make it an attractive place to visit in winter as well. For much of its history, Hvar was a in important centre for trade and culture as well as a naval base. However, by the 19th century, The Hygienic Society of Hvar, one of the first tourist boards in Europe, decided to change course. Based on the society’s mission to provide “good care for visitors”, Hvar is now home to an abundance of hotels, restaurants, museums and galleries.

Perhaps best known for its lively nightlife, warm Mediterranean climate, sandy beaches and crystal-clear waters as well as historical sites, Hvar has something for all types of travellers. Outdoors enthusiasts, beach bums, partygoers and arts and culture buffs will all find something appealing in Hvar.

It might not be the first thing you think of when visiting a warm, sunny island in the Adriatic, but Hvar is well-known for its lavender. If you’re in Hvar in early summer, be sure to visit the village of Velo Grablje, where an annual Lavender Festival is held in June of each year. You’ll be able to sample and purchase lavender essential oil along with rosemary, honey and olive oils produced by the local agricultural cooperative.

Tour the Pakleni Islands, swim and snorkel in secluded coves and enjoy lunch on tiny Sveti Klement island. A local tour company offers a one-day boat trip around the beautiful, unspoiled islands, but you can also choose a four-hour morning or sunset sail. Another local outfitter offers a variety of dives in Hvar’s clear waters, one featuring the wreck of an English merchant ship which sunk in a lagoon in the 1800s and is now home to many sea creatures.

The Blue Cave and the Green Cave are incredible sites that you can visit on a full-day small-group tour. Tours to these sites usually include the coast of Vis, the hidden lagoon of Stiniva Beach, and lunch at a nice beach restaurant.

Fortica Fortress sits high on a hill above Hvar and offers the best views of the town and sea. Although its construction began in 1278 while the town was under Venetian rule, it is likely that a fortified structure existed on this site much earlier, based on archaeological discoveries.

The Gothic Cathedral of St. Stephen, which dates back to the 14th century, sits on one side of the main square. Inside you’ll see remarkably well preserved altarpieces, a late Gothic crucifix and 15th century pulpit.

Construction of the City Walls started in 1278 while Hvar was under Venetian rule. However, the walls that remain today were built in the mid-15th century and stretch from the fortress to the town square.

The Gallery of Modern Art in Hvar, commonly called the Arsenal because of its location in the lobby of the Historic Theatre of Hvar, was established in 1957 by one of the leading experts in Croatian contemporary art, Dr. Grgo Gamulin.

Stari Grad, the oldest known town in Croatia, is found in Hvar’s main port. Remnants of the ancient Greek civilization that settled here around 384 BC are on display in Stari Grad Museum, along with a variety of items from a Roman shipwreck.

Tvrdalj Castle, located in Stari Grad, was the summer home of Croatian poet Petar Hektorovic. The castle is a well-preserved, fortified Renaissance building originally intended to protect the poet, his family and the residents of Stari Grad from an invasion by the Turks. The interior courtyard has a seawater fish pool surrounded by a vaulted terrace. On the land side is a walled garden where herbs and medicinal plants are grown. Not far from Hvar’s main square is a Franciscan Monastery founded in the 15th century. The monastery houses a vast collection of historical items and is known for its beautiful gardens and views of the coast. The most famous finds at the monastery are an impressive painting of the Last Supper and a 300-year old cypress tree in its garden.

Just outside of Hvar, you’ll find Grapčeva špilja (Grapčeva cave,) one of the best-preserved Neolithic limestone caves in the Mediterranean. The site was excavated during the early 20th century and three prehistorical cultures were found here: Nakovan, Cetina and Hvar culture. You’ll see incredible stalactites and stalagmites while walking through a site first inhabited in 4,000 BC. Visitors must book a guided tour in advance.

DUBROVNIK

The last stop on your tour of Croatia is Dubrovnik, often referred to as the “Pearl of the Adriatic” for its stunning beauty, the charm of its Old Town, the red clay roofs, limestone streets and medieval city walls. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979 and along with its ancient architecture, you’ll find designer shops, fantastic restaurants and beautiful beaches.

Walking through the historic Old Town of Dubrovnik is likely the first thing you’ll want to do. This is a small and easy to navigate city – you can walk the entirety of the Old Town in less than 15 minutes. The narrow streets house many restaurants, cafes and little shops. While you can certainly enjoy this on your own, a walking tour led by local guide will provide you with a fascinating look into the history of this city and visits to the major landmarks.

The Stradun, Dubrovnik’s main street, divides the Old Town into north and south and is only for use by pedestrians. You’ll find many shops, cafes and restaurants along this popular street. The one must-see/do item on your list should be to walk the old Dubrovnik Walls. You’ll enjoy spectacular views of the city and the deep blue sea below, and get a real sense of the history of this place. The defensive walls we see today date back to the Middle Ages and are among the largest in all of Europe, encircling the entirety of the old city. There are several forts along the walls, the most famous being the Minceta Tower, and you’ll also come across a few cafes where you can stop for a drink and enjoy the view. The full loop around the city will take approx. two hours.

For the absolute best views of Dubrovnik, take a Cable Car ride up to Mount Srd, which rises 412 metres above the city. If you take the car ride up during the daytime, you’ll be mesmerized by the view of the red clay tile roofs, the vibrant green of the nearby islands, and the deep blue sea below. But, an evening trip will provide an incredible view of the sun setting behind the city. The cable car operates until midnight during the busy summer months.

Dubrovnik’s Cathedral, the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, is an impressive example of Roman Baroque architecture. Built on the site of several earlier cathedrals, the current structure was designed and built by a group of Italian architects after the 12th century church was destroyed by an earthquake in 1667. While the 12th century cathedral was built in the Romanesque style, the Italian-designed church we see today is in keeping with the traditions of Bernini and other 17th century architects. Inside the cathedral, on the main altar you’ll see a triptych of the Assumption of Mary by the Renaissance Italian painter Titian, painted around 1550. The side altars house other magnificent works by Italian and Croatian artists from the same period.

Fans of Game of Thrones might enjoy a visit to Fort Lovrijenac, the location of a tournament in honour of King Joffrey. The fort was built around 1018 to protect the city from the Venetians. Some refer to it as Dubrovnik’s Gibraltar, as it sits high up on a hill and provides spectacular views of Dubrovnik – just be prepared to climb a steep set of steps to get to the entrance. GoT fans might feel as though they’ve arrived in King’s Landing, for so many scenes were filmed in Dubrovnik! For example, Cersei’s walk of shame took place in St. Dominika Street; Minceta Tower was the site for the House of the Undying; Pile Bay was the filming location for Blackwater Bay. There are now several King’s Landing Tours of Dubrovnik which include visits to some of the major filming sites, and even a chance to sit on the Iron Throne.

Oenophiles will enjoy D'Vino Wine Tours, which are entirely customized based on your interests and the time you have available. You’ll visit local wineries and meet some of D’vino’s favourite wine-makers.

Day trips

Korcula is another incredible medieval city overflowing with natural beauty. The birthplace of the explorer Marco Polo, Korcula has an incredible old city, stunning hidden beaches and so many olive groves. There’s a lot to see and do in Korcula, so while you can certainly visit for a day, consider spending at least a couple of days here to get a real taste of the culture. One of the main attractions here is wine: Korcula is the wine island and varietals grown here are not available anywhere else. Keep in mind, Korcula is best for adults, it is not as family-friendly as the rest of Croatia.

Lokrum Island is a 15-minute ferry ride from Dubrovnik’s harbour and it is a wonderful day trip and escape from the bustle of the city. Visit the beautiful gardens with roaming peacocks, relax on the beach or visit the abandoned Benedictine Monastery, another GoT filming location and the site of the Iron Throne.

Zagreb

Rougemarin restaurant is located in a former lightbulb factory, this place has an industrial look, an open kitchen and a large outdoor terrace, ideal for summer dining. The menu changes monthly, but highlights include their spring rolls, risotto and lemon pie.

Mali Bar is a very affordable restaurant featuring fresh and seasonal dishes, wine by the glass and a great ambience. The menu here changes daily, so you’ll just have to see what goodness awaits!

Pod Zidom Bistro is located in the heart of Upper Town and is a small, well-designed bistro featuring fresh, local ingredients and organic wine. The menu changes seasonally and sometimes daily, but there is always a selection of tapas with wine.

Far from the tourist areas of the city, Restaurant Tac is one of the best in Zagreb and features traditional Croatian food, made with ingredients sourced from local producers.

Hemingway Lounge Bar – Located in the centre of the city, this popular cocktail bar is modern and elegant and has a few outdoor tables ideal for a summertime visit. The Bulldog is another popular bar that also has a restaurant and dance club. The menu features local beer and wines, as well as a variety of cocktails, all reasonably priced.

A favourite spot for after-dinner drinks, Dezman Bar features specialty cocktails along with local wines and beer, snacks, coffee and cigars.

Split

Fig Split, with a new location in the heart of Diocletian’s Palace, offers seating in a sunny courtyard, creative dishes made with local ingredients and a variety of cocktails. Fig is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and they offer vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options, so everyone should be able to find something delicious to eat here.

Zinfandel Wine Bar, located in Old Town, offers seasonal dishes, an extensive wine list and live music. The vibe here is warm, friendly and relaxed, and the prices are quite reasonable. Villa Spiza, a tiny restaurant also in Old Town, is very popular with locals and tourists alike, so be prepared to wait! Their seasonal menu changes daily and is mostly seafood-based, but other options are available and promise to be simple and delicious.

For an amazing sea view, be sure to book a table at Zrno Soli in the marina. This is definitely an upscale restaurant and is priced accordingly, but it’s beautiful terrace overlooking the sea and town make it worth the price. They also offer a 6-course tasting menu and wine paring.

For the best outdoor dining in all of Split, Restaurant Dvor should be on your list. The beautiful terrace only steps from the beach, along with the delicious food, some cooked on a charcoal grill, have made this a very popular restaurant with locals. It’s a little farther from the Old Town (20 min. walk), and unlike some of our other options, they do accept reservations.

Uje Oil Bar in Old Town Split, offers delicious tapas-style food in a relaxed atmosphere. They offer a selection of great wines and olive oils, and the menu is updated daily.

Vegetarians and vegans will want to put Konoba Matoni on their list. The tavern is close to Bacvice beach, which some consider the best in Split, an easy 15-minute walk from the Old Town. Matoni’s seasonal menu offers traditional Mediterranean dishes made fresh with local ingredients.

The most popular bar among locals is Academia Club Ghetto, located in the centre of Old Town Split. They often host live performances and art exhibitions, and the vibe might be described as bohemian.

Also in Old Town, Sanctuary Bar is tiny and always packed. The atmosphere is great, there are local craft beers on tap and a variety of cocktails, all at reasonable prices. The few outside tables fill up early in the summer, so plan to arrive early.

Craft beer fans will want to visit Leopold’s Delicatessen Bar in the centre of Old Town. This place is tiny but worth a visit, not just for the beer, but the atmosphere as well. The bar is built into the old town walls and outside are a handful of tables and floor cushions to lounge on.

A little farther out of town is the popular Adriatic Social Club, where many locals gather for tea, cocktails and good music. This place is relaxed, well-priced and definitely worth a visit.

Hvar

Giaxa is the best place in Hvar to taste the island’s signature dish of gregada, a fish stew with potatoes, onions, garlic and olive oil. This restaurant is housed in a restored 15th-century Gothic palace and has a beautiful courtyard where you can sit to enjoy your meal. If you’re visiting in summer, be sure to make a reservation as this is a very popular spot to dine.

Tri Prsuta (Three Hams) is the main wine bar in Hvar and the best place to sample Croatian wines. This is a popular spot that offers outdoor seating, great service and small bites to accompany wine tastings.

If popular party scenes and celebrity spotting are on your list wish list, be sure to visit Carpe Diem Beach Club. You’ll have to travel by boat, as Carpe Diem sits on its own island, and you can spend the day there soaking up the sun and/or dancing the night away.

For a taste of the real Croatia, visit Konoba Menego located close to the main square. This rustic tavern features family recipes, Dalmatian stuffed bread, delicious salads, and house wine from the Menego Family vineyards. The food is fantastic, the staff is friendly, and there are vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options.

Vegetarians and vegans will enjoy the delicious options at Fig Café Hvar, from the same group as Fig Split. This restaurant is a little harder to find, as it’s at the end of a small alleyway close to the main square, but it is worth the effort. They do not accept reservations during high season (May 1 – Sept. 30,) so you’ll want to get there early.

Travelers with a sweet tooth should walk up the hill from Riva to Nonica, a little bakery in a narrow alley to taste delicious, homemade cakes including local favorites like Hforski koloč, a citrus-flavored biscuit that will melt in your mouth.

A great spot for sunset cocktails is Hula Hula Hvar on Majerovića beach. Enjoy cocktails and music from your recliner as you watch the sun slip down into the sea.

Dubrovnik

Located in the Old Town, D’vino Wine Bar offers a great selection of Croatian wine, flights of wine, and tasting platters. This is a very popular spot, so be sure to reserve a table if you’re visiting during the busy summer season.

Recommended by the Michelin Guide, Proto Fish Restaurant is a family-owned restaurant established in 1886 and its seasonal menu is inspired by traditional dishes passed down through generations. Located in the Old Town, Proto has a lovely little roof terrace from which you’ll enjoy great views of the city below.

Nautika – For fine dining with incredible views of the Adriatic, be sure to reserve a table at Nautika. Conde Nast Traveller magazine once named this one of the most romantic restaurants in the world, as it lies directly on the edge of the sea and has several amazing terraces. The seasonal menu consists mainly of fresh seafood and local ingredients, combined to create refined Mediterranean dishes. Vegetarian options are available and reservations are recommended, especially during high season.

Gradska – Located near the main square in the Old Town, Gradska is a great place for evening drinks. The seasonal menu is prepared with locally sourced ingredients and offers traditional dishes crafted in a contemporary style. There is an excellent wine selection along with good cocktails and beer. This is another popular spot, so be sure to make dinner reservations well in advance.

Dodo Beach Bar – This cliffside bar has become a favourite summer spot for locals, given its amazing views, relaxed vibe and great staff. Not far from Dubrovnik’s Old Town, Dodo offers a wide variety of cocktails along with burgers, salads and some vegetarian options.

Bota Sare Oyster & Sushi Bar – Just across from Dubrovnik Cathedral you’ll find the upscale Bota Sare, the city’s first oyster and sushi bar. All dishes are made from locally sourced ingredients, including bluefin tuna, swordfish and Ston oysters from Mali Ston Bay. There’s a good selection of Croatian wines as well as a few cocktails.

Restaurant Glorijet – Offering a more limited menu but good value and casual style, Glorijet is a lovely little seaside spot. Located on the harbour next to Dubrovnik’s fish market, this is the perfect place to sample a variety of grilled fish and seafood.

Urban & Veggie – While most of Dubrovnik’s restaurants focus on fresh seafood, Urban & Veggie offers a variety of vegan and vegetarian dishes, crafted with locally grown and organic ingredients sourced from family-owned farms. This is a little farther from the Old Town, located in the historic port of Gruz and close to the city’s main market. Try the delicious threesome starter, consisting of beet hummus, peas & mint combo, and bell peppers sprinkled with toasted walnuts. Reservations are required.