Curator’s statement
I took this trip by myself in a moment when I needed motivation and inspiration. Boy oh boy, Sicily delivered them both! I traveled solo along the coast from Taormina to Palermo—passing through Ortigia, Noto, Modica, Ragusa Ibla, Agrigento, and countless villages rich in art, history, and unforgettable flavors. I expected to be mesmerized by the sea, but it was the mountains that truly stole my heart: the winding roads, sweeping valleys, and the unmistakable silhouette of Mt. Etna on the horizon with the distant sea shining below gifted me breathtaking memories. Sicily is a truly special place, shaped by a mix of cultures sedimented over the years and timeless traditions.
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Accommodation
If you’re easily overwhelmed by crowds, consider staying a bit farther from Taormina’s busiest streets. I recommend Hotel Villa Ducale: perched on the mountainside, it offers stunning views from almost every room and features a wonderful restaurant. With a free shuttle that brings you to downtown Taormina in just five minutes, you can enjoy everything the city offers without any of the stress.
Just a 15-minute drive from Ragusa and Modica, Relais Chiaramonte is a beautiful hotel set on the grounds of a working farm, surrounded by olive groves where you can walk for miles in complete silence. The views are stunning, the infinity pool is the perfect spot for a lazy afternoon, and the restaurant serves creative Sicilian cuisine. While not centrally located, it is an ideal retreat to truly unplug and recharge.

Scala dei Turchi
When visiting the Valley of the Temples—one of my favorite places in Sicily—take a 15-minute drive along the southern coast to see the Scala dei Turchi, or “Stair of the Turks.” This dramatic, brilliant-white limestone cliff plunges into the deep blue sea and is one of the most striking natural sights on the island.
The name derives from the fact that Saracen pirates, who were commonly (though inaccurately) referred to as “Turks” used this formation as a landing to carry out piracy raids in the 1500s.
Pictures hardly do it justice—it’s a breathtaking sight. You can admire it from above, directly from the road, or choose to go down to the beach and climb the formation itself. Tickets cost €5 per person, must be purchased online in advance, and grant access for a specific time slot.
Be aware that reaching the beach requires climbing down a long set of steps at Lido Scala dei Turchi—and, of course, climbing back up afterward. The good news? The lido has a charming seaside restaurant overlooking the water, a perfect spot to rest and recharge on your way back to the car.

When in Palermo
And while you’re in Sicily, don’t miss a cooking class in Palermo. Walk through the vibrant Ballarò open-air market with your chef to select fresh ingredients and immerse yourself in the irresistible smells, colors, and flavors of Sicilian cuisine. It’s an unforgettable experience.

Mount Etna
Before planning an excursion to Mount Etna, be sure to check the weather conditions. If it’s foggy, visibility at the summit will be very limited. The official Mount Etna website offers live cameras that allow you to check visibility at the top. Trust me—it can be perfectly sunny where you are, yet you may encounter a wall of fog once you reach the summit.
On your way to Mount Etna, you’ll encounter several wineries that take advantage of the volcano’s rich mineral terroir to produce distinctive red and white wines. I recommend stopping at Favazza Etna Winery, a consortium of small winemakers set in a beautiful location. Here, you can taste local wines and enjoy a tour of the property, which includes a vegetable garden where ingredients for the on-site cooking classes are harvested, as well as views of the lava flow from Mount Etna’s 1971 eruption.


Need to know
Driving in Sicily is generally fine, but it can get a bit chaotic in larger cities such as Siracusa or Palermo. Drivers tend to be aggressive and traffic can be intense. I don’t want to discourage you from renting a car—just be mindful and drive defensively.
For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our Sicily page.

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