Kruger National Park: Lions, Sunsets, and Safari Magic

We saw the Big Five… and honestly, it still doesn’t feel real. If you’re not familiar, the Big Five are lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo, and rhino, and spotting all of them in one trip is such a thrill.

From the start, it felt like something out of a movie. We rented a car out of Johannesburg and drove about four hours to Kruger National Park. The drive itself is easy, but just to set expectations, you’re not really seeing wildlife along the way, that all comes once you get closer.

Right before entering the park, you go over a bridge where you can look down and see hippos and crocodiles in the water below, which is such a fun “welcome” moment and really gets everyone excited.

And then as soon as we entered, it was like a switch flipped. Within minutes, we saw a bunch of cars pulled off to the side, which you quickly learn means something is there, and sure enough, there was a cheetah just sleeping up in a tree. Not even five minutes later, since it was right around sunset, we came across hyenas starting to come out. It all happened so fast, and it was one of those moments where you realize this is going to be unlike anything else.

We were lucky enough to see two rhinos, which felt really special, and not something you take for granted.

But hands down, my family’s favorite animals were the hippos and warthogs. They are just hilarious. You could sit there forever watching them do their thing.

The cheetahs lounging in the trees along the road were incredible to see, and of course the lions are beautiful, but my kids weren’t nearly as excited about them because they move so slowly. Until we had that one moment at the watering hole…

Picture this, a small lake with crocodiles and hippos right next to each other, antelope off to one side, hyenas roaming nearby, and then a whole group of lions with their cubs spread out around the water. It was one of those moments where everyone just sat quietly and watched. The baby lions roaming around with their moms were what really got the kids excited.

The rhythm of the days

One of the things that makes Kruger National Park so special is the pace. Our days usually started early, coffee in hand, heading out right at sunrise. We’d come back mid-morning, relax a bit, sit by the pool, have lunch, and then head back out in the late afternoon when everything starts to come alive again.

Midday, it’s always nice to sit by the pool, cool off, and just relax before going back out. It’s such a nice reset, especially with kids.

And I have to say, we were all so surprised by the food. Every rest stop and restaurant we went to in the park was so good, we still talk about it. Between Kruger Station Restaurant, Cattle Baron Skukuza, Mugg & Bean Lower Sabie, and Bushveld Terrace Restaurant, there were so many great, easy stops where you could sit, relax, and actually enjoy a really good meal right in the middle of the park.

One night at Kruger Station, we tried the crocodile steak parmesan schnitzel, and you have to try it at least once, it’s one of those “only here” moments. There were also so many other great options like buttery chicken curry with coconut rice, impala and warthog pie, slow braised lamb shank, and even simple pasta dishes if you want something more familiar. It made dinners feel fun and a little adventurous without being overwhelming.

And one thing to note, evenings do get cold, especially after the sun goes down, so having that light jacket or something warm is definitely needed. It actually adds to the whole experience, sitting outside, bundled up a bit, talking about everything you saw that day.

Dinner on the train

A funny (and slightly chaotic) monkey moment

While we were at the shops in Skukuza Rest Camp grabbing snacks and t-shirts, we came back out to the car and looked up, and right above us in the tree were Vervet Monkeys just hanging out.

We quickly got into the car, and right next to us there was a safari truck where people had stepped away. Within seconds, a whole group of monkeys jumped into the truck, grabbed all their food, and ran off eating it. It was honestly one of the funniest things we saw.

On another occasion, I was taking pictures of them, and one started chasing me, which turned from funny to scary very quickly, so definitely keep your distance.

If you love birding, this is a hidden bonus

Even if you’re not a big bird person, you kind of become one here. Kruger National Park is incredible for birdlife.

We kept seeing things like the colorful Lilac-breasted Roller, the iconic African Fish Eagle, Saddle-billed Stork, and Hornbill.

A little real-life tip (and a funny one)

Before heading here, you’ll want to talk to your doctor about malaria prevention medication, most people are prescribed something like Malarone.

Funny story… one of the side effects can be really vivid dreams, and one night in our hut, my husband woke up in a panic telling me there was a cheetah in the room and that we needed to get out immediately. Safe to say, there was no cheetah… just the medication doing its thing.

A little more about what makes Kruger so special

Another thing that makes Kruger National Park so incredible is just how vast it is. It’s the largest wildlife reserve in South Africa and plays a huge role in conservation, especially protecting endangered species like rhinos. It’s also home to more species of large mammals than any other game reserve in Africa, which is why every drive feels so different.

If you’re entering from the south

We entered through the southern part of the park, and this is one of the best areas for wildlife.

Start at Crocodile Bridge Gate, then make your way to Lower Sabie Rest Camp where you can sit and watch hippos and crocodiles right from the restaurant. Continue up to Skukuza Rest Camp, which is a great central hub to stop and reset.

A few things I wish I knew before going

I wish I had known how quickly sightings happen, have your camera ready the second you enter the park.

Also, talking with other travelers at the end of the day ended up being one of my favorite parts. Everyone shares what they saw, and it helps you plan your next drive.

And the people who work inside the park are truly some of the sweetest.

Southern part of the park: Quick guide

Camps:

• Skukuza Rest Camp

• Lower Sabie Rest Camp

• Crocodile Bridge Camp

Best restaurants:

• Kruger Station Restaurant

• Cattle Baron Skukuza

• Mugg & Bean Lower Sabie

• Bushveld Terrace Restaurant

Stop-offs for snacks & breaks:

• Skukuza main area

• Lower Sabie rest stop

• Crocodile Bridge entrance area

What to pack

• Binoculars

• Sunscreen

• Hat

• Neutral clothing

• Light jacket

• Camera or phone with zoom

Animals you may see

• Lions

• Leopards

• Elephants

• Buffalo

• Rhinos

• Cheetahs

• Hyenas

• Hippos

• Crocodiles

• Giraffes

• Zebras

• Warthogs

• Antelope (impala, kudu, etc.)

• Monkeys and baboons

• Incredible birdlife

Why this trip worked so well for us

Before this, we had been in Cape Town, then after Kruger we went to Victoria Falls and then on to Dubai. It never felt like too much. It was actually very relaxed, easy, and such a great trip with kids.

Kruger is one of those places where every drive feels different. You never know what you’re going to see.

It’s one of those trips where we still say, “remember when we saw…” and it takes us right back.

It’s not just a trip, it’s one of those experiences that really stays with you and changes how you see the world.

Believe it or not, the crocodiles are afraid of the hippos and the hippos like to tease them till they move.

Helpful tips before you go:

• We traveled in June, which is a great time to go

• Always stay in your car unless you’re at a designated rest stop

• Pack neutral-colored clothing, sunscreen, a hat, and a light jacket

• Bring binoculars, you’ll use them constantly

• It’s very safe and easy to self-drive

• Make sure to plan your days around gate opening and closing times

• The water inside the park is technically safe to drink, but we stuck with bottled. Outside the park, I would avoid tap water

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our South Africa page.