Image courtesy of Le Sirenuse
At a recent dinner party, I met three couples talking about their trips to Japan—one just back from their honeymoon, one about to leave, and another still deep in the planning stage. It made me wonder if more travelers were trading classic European summer vacations for other hot spots.
When I looked at the trips Fora Advisors were booking for their clients, the answer was a resounding. Yes, Japan is trending hard (and for good reason), but Europe still reigns as our travelers’ top choice for summer trips, with Italy as the runaway favorite.
Three of the top 10 hotels in Europe are in Rome, and if you zoom out a bit more, the bookings made across Rome, Florence, and Venice alone are enough to make Italy the highest-demand country on Fora’s books. Not the highest-demand European destination, but the highest-demand country—period. The picture gets even more interesting when you look at the types of hotels Fora clients are gravitating toward. So far, 53% of the hotels booked in Europe this summer are independent properties not affiliated with a hotel group.
Some of the popularity is timing: the beloved Le Sirenuse turns 75 this year and is opening its long-awaited Le Sirenuse Mare Nerano beach club, which is all the excuse the Amalfi devotees need to book the trip. Some of it is the perennial pull of Rome and Venice, the latter of which has a host of new hotel openings. And some of it is the fact that Italy, especially outside the major cities, still offers a depth of experience that’s genuinely hard to replicate at such a variety of price points. The country’s incredible boutique hotels deserve a lot of credit for grounding their guests in the distinctive character and traditions of each region.
When I was at Le Sirenuse a few weeks ago to celebrate its milestone birthday, I found myself talking up a handful of my favorite boutique properties around the country, including some of my favorite indie hotels. And since I’m not one for gatekeeping, I wanted to share it here.
Rome
Image courtesy of Hotel Chapter Roma
Chapter Roma (Rome, Italy)
Chapter Roma represents a newer generation of Rome hotels that’s boutique, design-forward, and genuinely connected to the city’s creative scene. The rooms strike a balance between stylish and comfortable; the bar is the perfect place to end an evening; and the neighborhood gives you a slightly different angle on Rome than the well-worn tourist circuit. It’s a strong pick for anyone who wants to feel like they’re staying in Rome the modern city rather than Rome the living museum.
Hotel de Russie, A Rocco Forte Hotel (Rome, Italy)
There is the Rome that belongs to everyone, and then there is the Rome you find just past the gates of Hotel de Russie’s terraced, wisteria-draped secret garden. The warm, intuitive service puts you at ease immediately, and the location couldn’t be better. You’re a short walk from Piazza del Popolo, the Borghese Gallery, and the top of the Spanish Steps, but it’s such a private setting that you feel far removed from the busy city.
Orient Express La Minerva (Rome, Italy)
La Minerva is my top Rome hotel for anyone who wants to be inside the historic center in the fullest possible sense. Three major landmarks sit half a mile or less from its doorstep: the Trevi Fountain, Piazza Navona, and the Pantheon, which is practically around the corner. It’s also one of Rome's most character-packed hotels, with a rooftop terrace overlooking the Basilica of Saint Mary of Minerva and rooms that have the kind of lived-in grandeur no amount of renovation can manufacture.
Venice
Courtesy of Nolinski Venezia
Nolinski Venezia (Venice, Italy)
The Nolinski occupies the old Venice Stock Exchange, a few canals over from the Piazza San Marco and La Fenice, which means you’re in a quiet, walkable section of the historic center but removed from the Grand Canal tourist circuit. The building is an extraordinary combination of Art Nouveau, Stile Liberty, and Modernism features. Interiors by Le Coadic Scotto lean into stucco marbro, mango wood joinery, and contemporary art in places you don’t expect to find it. Chef Philip Chronopoulos runs the restaurant with a Mediterranean-meets-French sensibility that's earned Michelin notice, and the gold mosaic-tiled rooftop pool with 360-degree views over the Venetian skyline is the kind of amenity that makes everything else feel almost beside the point.
Orient Express Palazzo Dona Giovannelli (Venice, Italy)
Before becoming a hotel, this 15th-century palace belonged to Venetian nobility, including the Duke of Urbino. Architect Aline Asmar d’Amman ensured that the building’s heritage comes through, preserving features like the original painted canal-facing windows and an octagonal staircase built in 1847. The six suites all have extraordinary details. Two that caught my eye: the Orient Express Suite, which has a Murano glass chessboard and train-inspired bar details alongside a 15th-century ceiling, and the Cherubini Suite, which occupies the former congress room and hides its doors in the walls. The location puts you in a quieter, more residential corner of Venice about 25 minutes from San Marco, making it a smart choice for returning visitors who want to feel like they actually live there.
Florence
Image courtesy of The Place Firenze
The Place Firenze (Florence, Italy)
Located in the center of Florence, this hotel nails every facet of hospitality that boutique hotels are known for: fewer rooms, more personal attention, a rooftop terrace with views that don't need any editing. It's genuinely well run, and it offers an experience of Florence that feels like you’re staying with someone who actually knows the city, rather than simply finding a place to rest your head.
Collegio alla Querce, Auberge Collection (Florence, Italy)
What was once a historic Jesuit college near the Fortezza da Basso is now one of Florence's most distinctive hotels. The renovation added all the modern amenities travelers expect while preserving the building’s original cloisters, courtyard, and high ceilings. It’s a great option for travelers who wants character and history from a slightly different corner of the city.
Villa San Michele Fiesole, A Belmond Hotel (Florence, Italy)
After an 18-month renovation, Villa San Michele is back and better than ever. The former monastery’s setting on a Florentine hillside is still magical, but now there are 39 refreshed rooms and suites, a Guerlain spa, and destination-worthy restaurant to match the sweeping Tuscan views. Spend a night or two here before diving into the city.
The Italian Countryside
Image courtesy of Vocabolo Moscatelli
Vocabolo Moscatelli (Umbertide, Italy)
Set in the hills of Umbria, this beautifully restored stone farmhouse has the kind of authenticity that takes real effort to achieve and always shows when it’s faked. Reasonable rates, genuine hospitality, and a landscape that will make you wonder why you've been going to Tuscany when this was right here the whole time. If you want the Italian countryside experience without the premium that comes with saying “Chianti,” this hotel will be hard to resist.
The Amalfi Coast
We love combining stays at Le Sirenuse with time at boutique hotels in other Amalfi towns that have a different vibe than Positano.
Image courtesy of Palazzo Avino
Palazzo Avino (Ravello, Italy)
A hilltop position in the quiet medieval village of Ravello gives this 12th-century villa two big advantages: a truly peaceful setting away from summertime crowds and the jaw-dropping sea views that bring so many travelers to this region in the first place. The addition of Chef’s Table and Sommelier’s Table experiences have made its Michelin-starred restaurant, Rossellinis, even more of a draw, and a complimentary all-day shuttle means it’s effortless to reach the hotel’s private Clubhouse By the Sea at the foot of the mountain.
Borgo Santandrea (Conca dei Marini, Italy)
Borgo Santandrea has one of the area’s rare private beaches, reachable by elevator straight from the property. The hotel feels classically Italian, thanks to elements like tiles made by local ceramicists, but striking midcentury pieces from the owners’ personal collection bring a modern touch to the overall design. All the restaurants on property are fantastic, but Marinella’s ultra-fresh seafood, combined with the beachside setting, makes it particularly irresistible.
