Curator’s statement
After spending three weeks in Mexico City this winter, I was completely in awe of everything the city has to offer—from the high-low food scene to the incredible greenery and warmth of the people. With over 22 million people and the most museums per capita in the world, the sheer scale of culture is impossible to fully capture in three weeks, let alone a long weekend. I’ve distilled my favorite highlights into this four-day edit to give you a taste of the magic that already has me planning my next trip back.
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Day 1: Arrive & settle into Polanco
Veranda at Casa Polanco
Condesa is the bohemian-chic neighbor to Polanco. It’s famous for its Art Deco architecture, lush dog parks, and a younger, creative energy. It feels much more residential and “leafy.”
Breakfast: To start your day, enjoy a leisurely breakfast at Casa Polanco.
Check-in: Settle into the stunning Casa Polanco, a restored 1940s mansion that feels more like a private residence than a hotel.
Lunch: If you’re ready to dive right into the street taco scene, hit El Turix for their legendary cochinita pibil. For a more refined start, Entremar is the place to be for seafood.
Afternoon stretch: Wander through Pasaje Polanco, a charming Neo-Colonial alleyway, before hitting Avenida Masaryk for high-end retail therapy.
Golden Hour: Enjoy a cocktail on the terrace at Casa Polanco overlooking the treetops of Lincoln Park.
Dinner: Ticuchi. It’s intimate, Oaxacan-inspired by the renowned chef Enrique Olvera, and very cool. Focus on the tamales and mezcal cocktails.
Day 2: Chapultepec Park & Condesa
Museo Nacional de Antropología
Condesa is the bohemian-chic neighbor to Polanco. It’s famous for its Art Deco architecture, lush dog parks, and a younger, creative energy. It feels much more residential and “leafy.” To start your day, enjoy a leisurely breakfast at Casa Polanco.
Chapultepec: Stroll through the park and take your pick of one of many impressive museums:
Museo Nacional de Historia: Set in the castle, enjoy the views and deep dive into Mexico’s history.
Museo de Arte Moderno: For Frida Kahlo paintings.
Museo Nacional de Antropología (pictured): Mexico City’s most impressive museum, with an extensive collection of pre-Hispanic artifacts like the Aztec Sun Stone.
Taco tour: Grab lunch at Maizajo (phenomenal heirloom corn) or pick from a number of outstanding street taco vendors in Condesa, including: Tacos Don Juan (get the quesabirria on weekends), Taqueria El Greco, El Pescadito, or Dani’s Barbacoa (weekends only).
Meander: Walk through Parque España and Parque México (Avenida Ámsterdam) to see the neighborhood’s famous greenery and architecture.
Dinner: Stay in Condesa for the lush garden setting of Botanico, or head back to Polanco for Entremar or a bucket-list tasting menu at Pujol.
Day 3: Centro Histórico & Roma Norte
Tuna Tostada at Mi Compa Chava
Roma Norte is the city’s culinary and creative heartbeat. It’s a bit edgier than Polanco, filled with restored 19th-century mansions that now house the city’s best wine bars and hidden speakeasies.
Centro Histórico: Spend the morning seeing the Diego Rivera murals at Bellas Artes, the "gold" post office (Palacio Postal) and the National Art Museum (MUNAL).
Lunch: Choose your own adventure!
Masala & Maiz: A unique Mexican-Indian fusion experience with an extensive natural wine list.
If you missed Entremar: Contramar is the original. You must order the snapper and tuna tostadas.
Tacos del Valle: Order the trompo orden mixta, aka pork three ways (classic, red adobo, carne asada & a black pork belly version coated in a carbonized chile rub) and the tijuanita.
Mi Compa Chava (pictured): Calling real seafood lovers! Order an aguachile and the tuna tostadas.
Afternoon: Spend time shopping and wandering through Roma Norte’s independent boutiques and great vintage stores. Grab a guava roll at Panaderia Rosetta.
Drinks: Hit Handshake Speakeasy (reserve early) for world-class cocktails, Tlecan for a serious mezcal experience, or Bar Mauro for an Italian-focused aperitif.
Dinner: Maximo. Chef Eduardo García’s farm-to-table approach is the gold standard of modern Mexican cuisine.
Day 4: Coyoacán & an unforgettable dining experience
Chef's Counter at Quintonil
We’re heading south to Coyoacán, a colorful, cobblestoned village that feels frozen in time. Once the home of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, it remains the city’s soulful, artistic heart.
Take in the color: Wander the plazas and grab a coffee. Visit Mercado 89 for a snack—the tostadas here are iconic for a reason.
Frida’s World: Explore Casa Azul (The Frida Kahlo Museum). Seeing her personal studio and gardens adds so much depth to her work. Pro tip: Must book these tickets weeks in advance!
Afternoon: Head back to Polanco to recharge and freshen up for the final night.
The Grand Finale (pictured): Dinner at Quintonil. Chef Jorge Vallejo’s tasting menu is a vibrant, elegant celebration of Mexican ingredients. It’s the perfect way to toast to your final night.
Day 5: Adios, Mexico City
Chapultepec Castle
Enjoy one last Mexican pastry at Casa Polanco before heading to the airport. You’re leaving with a full heart and an even fuller stomach!
Need to know
Beyond the city center, I loved exploring the ancient Teotihuacán Pyramids to marvel at the massive Sun and Moon structures (~1.5 hour drive each way from Condesa) and spending a vibrant afternoon drifting through the Xochimilco canals on a colorful trajinera (this can be coupled with the Frida museum). Other popular nearby destinations include the turquoise thermal springs of Grutas Tolantongo, the lakeside retreat of Valle de Bravo, the mountainside "Magic Town" of Tepoztlán, and Puebla, which is famous for its colonial architecture and food scene.
Cash vs. card: Most restaurants and boutiques accept cards, but you’ll definitely want to keep pesos on hand for the best street food stalls and local markets.
Getting around: Ubers are incredibly safe, efficient, and affordable—often ranging from $3 to $5 for a 20-minute ride. Just keep an eye on the clock. There’s a lot of traffic in CDMX, so always give yourself a little extra buffer time.
Language: While you’ll find English at higher-end hotels and restaurants, it isn’t as common as you might expect. It’s worth practicing a few Spanish basics before you go—it goes a long way with the locals.
Hydration: Please avoid the tap water. Stick to bottled or filtered water, which all the hotels and restaurants in this guide provide.
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Lauren Lockett
Lauren Lockett
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