Eating Your Way Through Logroño: A Love Letter to Calle Laurel

The “Elephant Trail” at Calle Laurel: This legendary tapas street is the heartbeat of Logroño, where each bar specializes in one signature pincho, like the famous grilled mushroom tower at Bar Soriano. It’s the ultimate spot to practice the “bote” with friends, weaving through the crowds for wine and small bites.

Architectural wine tours at Marqués de Riscal or Ysios: Experience the avant-garde side of Rioja by visiting Marqués de Riscal to see Frank Gehry’s pink titanium ribbons or Bodegas Ysios for its stunning wave-like roof designed by Santiago Calatrava. These wineries offer world-class tastings set against some of the most iconic modern architecture in Europe.

Riverside walks along the Rio Ebro: The peaceful paths along the Ebro River offer a perfect morning escape to see locals and pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago crossing the historic stone bridge. It’s a beautiful way to see the city skyline and enjoy a bit of quiet before the tapeo begins.

The Cradle of Spanish at San Millán de la Cogolla: A short drive from the city leads to the twin monasteries of Suso and Yuso, a UNESCO World Heritage site nestled in a lush, hidden valley. This historic spot is known as the “Cradle of the Spanish Language” because the first written words of Castilian were discovered in its ancient manuscripts.

Day tripping to Haro and Arnedo: Spend a day exploring Haro’s famous Station District, home to the highest concentration of century-old wineries in the world, before heading to Arnedo, the “City of Shoes.” Arnedo is a must-visit for its rich history of Spanish leather craftsmanship and incredible outlet shopping for world-renowned footwear brands.

Bar Blanco y Negro: As one of the oldest bars on the street, this is the place to try the “Matrimonio,” a delicious sandwich of white and silver anchovies with green peppers. It’s a true Calle Laurel classic that has stayed consistent since my time living there.

Bar Soriano or Bar Ángel: Both of these legendary spots are famous for one thing: the “champi,” a stack of three perfectly grilled mushrooms topped with a single shrimp and a secret garlic sauce. It’s messy, iconic, and usually the first stop for anyone doing a proper tapeo.

Bar Lorenzo: Known affectionately as the home of the “Tío Agus,” this bar serves a marinated pork skewer (pincho moruno) on a bun with a secret-recipe green sauce. It’s savory, a bit spicy, and easily one of the most craveable bites on the entire street.

Bar Jubera: If you love potatoes, you have to stop here for their “Patatas Bravas,” which many locals consider the best in the city. The sauce is rich and creamy with just the right amount of kick, making it a perfect companion to a glass of Rioja crianza.

Divina Croqueta: This is a modern favorite that specializes entirely in croquetas with creative fillings ranging from traditional jamón to blue cheese and walnuts. It’s a great spot to see how the younger generation is adding a gourmet twist to the traditional tapas scene.

La Concordia: Tucked into a beautiful corner, this spot is famous for its “cojonudos”—a slice of bread topped with chorizo, a fried quail egg, and a spicy pepper. It’s a small but mighty bite that perfectly captures the simple, high-quality flavors of the region.