From Roots to Reverie: Begur to Cadaqués

Quiet boats, endless stories

The Costa Brava is far more than beaches. It is history, depth, and pleasure experienced through the senses. This is a destination that invites you to slow down, to feel, and to connect—with the land, the sea, and yourself.

Begur

Our journey began at Toc al Mar, a beloved seaside restaurant that was once a fishermen’s hut. Today, it welcomes travelers with an honest expression of Mediterranean flavor. Dining here is a sensory experience: the taste of the sea on your plate, the sound of waves nearby, and the simple joy of watching coastal life unfold as summer gently begins to fade.

Hotel El Convent

From there, we arrived at our hotel, where the entrance into the former convent felt almost ceremonial. Light filters through glass, revealing centuries-old stone walls and warm wooden details. The atmosphere quietly prepares you for what the weekend will hold. Begur was ready to celebrate La Feria de los Indianos, a three-day festival where the entire town dresses in white—guayaberas, hats, and linen everywhere. A friendly warning: dress in white, or risk being labeled a tradition hater. Cuban rhythms fill the streets, mojito stands appear on every corner, and the flavors evoke stories of migration, memory, and return.

For me, this celebration was deeply personal. It unexpectedly connected me to my maternal grandfather’s roots, far from home yet emotionally close. The town becomes one living celebration: children eating and laughing, teenagers discovering the night, adults dancing and talking. Everything blends into a perfect, joyful rhythm.

La Feria de los Indianos nights

Cadaqués

No weekend escape along the Costa Brava would be complete without Cadaqués. I had heard about its beauty, but no one had told me about its soul. A bohemian spirit lives here—in the narrow streets, the whitewashed houses facing the harbor, and the small fishing boats gently dancing with the waves. Fishermen talk from one boat to another, sharing the quiet understanding that summer is ending and that the village will soon return to its slower, more intimate pace.

Cadaqués

Every street holds a story, and in Cadaqués it is impossible not to imagine the bohemian nights once lived by Salvador Dalí alongside Federico García Lorca and Luis Buñuel—conversations stretching into dawn, ideas spilling over wine, art, and provocation. This small fishing village was not only a refuge, but a creative laboratory where imagination felt limitless. Visiting Dalí’s house in Portlligat is essential to understand that spirit. Dalí liked to say that he was the first Spaniard to see the sunrise, thanks to the location of his home and a clever system of mirrors in his bedroom that reflected the first rays of light directly onto his bed, allowing him to witness the dawn without ever rising. Eccentric, poetic, and deeply emblematic of Cadaqués itself.

The House That Greets the Sun, Dali´s house

In Cadaqués, sit down for a coffee at Punta de sa Costa. Let the creative air surround you. You may find yourself, as I did, inspired to write, to reflect, or simply to be. The Costa Brava is not just a destination—it is an experience that stays with you long after you leave.

Playa de l'Illa Roja

Plan your dates around Las Noches de los Indianos

Begur’s most iconic celebration takes place every year in early September (usually the first weekend). For three days, the entire town dresses in white, Cuban music fills the streets, and the atmosphere is festive and deeply rooted in local history. Accommodations book up quickly, so planning well in advance is essential.

Renting a car is essential

To fully experience the Costa Brava—its hidden coves, scenic coastal roads, and the freedom to move between Begur, Cadaqués, and smaller villages—renting a car is highly recommended. Public transportation is limited and does not allow the same flexibility or access to quieter, less-traveled spots.

Book restaurants in advance during festival days

If you plan to dine in Begur during Las Noches de los Indianos, restaurant reservations are a must. The town fills with visitors, and tables—especially in the most sought-after spots—are often fully booked days or even weeks ahead.

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our Spain page.