Salento: Peaks, Palms & Pour-Overs

Sunset over the valley

Getting there

The journey to Salento is part of its charm. Flying from Medellín’s city-center airport (EOH) to Pereira (PEI) is a quick one-hour hop, though be prepared for some mountain turbulence on the regional flights—a small trade-off for the stunning views.

From the airport, a scenic one-hour drive brings you to Salento, a town known for its historic colonial architecture and vivid, multi-colored doors. The town square is a lively hub where travelers and locals mingle, and the pedestrian-only streets offer a treasure trove of local artisan crafts and handmade clothing.

The vibrant doors seen all over Salento

Accommodation

For an comfortable stay, Terasu Hotel Salento is a standout. Located just a 10-minute walk from the center, it offers a lush, quiet sanctuary. I highly recommend an upstairs room with a balcony; waking up to the morning light in a private hammock with a fresh cup of coffee is an experience I won’t soon forget. Their breakfast is excellent, featuring a buffet and made-to-order dishes like the hearty Migas Paisas. After a day of exploration, the on-site hot tub and sauna (available by request) provide the perfect way to unwind amidst the hotel’s peaceful landscaping.

Hotel Terasu Salento

Cocora Valley

Adventure seekers must head to the square to catch a Willy Jeep to the Cocora Valley. There is something undeniably fun about standing on the back of the Jeep, holding on as you wind through the valley like a local. I suggest a morning hike when it’s cooler; seeing the world’s tallest wax palms stretching toward the sky and horses roaming the misty fields is breathtaking. It is a physical challenge due to the altitude and steep peaks, but the panoramic views make every step worth it.

Statue of Princess Cocora

Coffee tasting, Finca Don Elias

Coffee plantation experience

To round out the experience, a visit to a family-run finca like Don Elías Coffee Plantation is essential. This organic farm focuses on biodiversity, growing bananas and plantains alongside 5,000 coffee trees. I learned the bean-to-cup process in an intimate setting that feels worlds away from the large commercial farms.

Coffee tree at Finca Don Elias

Back in town, don’t miss Skywind Coffee, where the owner, Christian, takes incredible care in every pour. Their latte frío and a slice of cake are the perfect rewards after a day of hiking the valley.

Latte frio y postre at Skywind Cafe

Trucha plancha ajillo

• Dining gem: You must visit Donde Laurita and order the Trucha Plancha Ajillo (grilled trout with garlic sauce). It’s served with a massive, crispy baked plantain and is easily the most delicious meal in town.

• Logistics: If flying from Medellín, use the EOH airport for convenience. Flights are short but can be bumpy. Once at the airport, you’ll need to stay alert as boarding happens very quickly, often just 10 minutes before departure!

• Hiking tips: Start the Cocora Valley trek early. The sun is strong and the air is thin at high altitudes. If you’re in decent shape, it’s a challenge but totally doable. Just take your time.

• The mirador double-feature: For a stunning sunset, climb the stairs to Mirador Alto de la Cruz. Afterward, walk over to the Mirador de Salento for a panoramic view of the valley below as the town’s lights begin to glow.

• Transport: Willy Jeeps run roughly every half hour from the square. Buy your ticket at the central stand, and make sure you check the time for the last Jeep returning from the valley so you don’t miss your ride back!

• Comfort note: Terasu (and many local hotels) do not have A/C or fans. While the evenings get quite chilly and cozy, the rooms can feel warm during the peak of a sunny day.

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