An Italian hideaway in a private cove

Our days at Mezzatorre felt like living inside an Italian film. We ate morning pastries on the terrace overlooking the sea, then took a slow walk through the forest to our room overlooking the sea. We stopped for a circuit in the hotel’s private thermal baths, where we braced ourselves in the cold plunge and then enjoyed the warm jets looking out at the view, before making our way down to the lounge chairs on the terrace above the water to sink into our books.

The real daily dilemma was lunch: a Zingara (Ischia’s iconic grilled sandwich of prosciutto, cheese, and the freshest tomatoes) delivered right to the chair, or dragging ourselves a few steps away to La Baia for some of the most memorable pasta we’ve had. We’ve eaten pasta across Italy for years, lived there for six months, and been back more times than we can count. The spaghetti pomodoro is stamped in our memory, and we still pull up the photo just to look at it.

Spaghetti pomodoro perfection

After lunch, we’d jump into the clear sapphire, blue of the Tyrrhenian Sea with our neon noodles bobbing up and down while we chatted with the other guests. Later, we’d chase the sun toward the saltwater pool before showering in our red-tiled bathroom.

Italian tile throughout the hotel

Then, it was time to head to the iconic Bar La Torre for aperitivo. The bartenders remember your drink each night while a pianist played and we debated which card game to play. The resident seagull patrolled the terrace edge, eyes our snacks. The view looks out over the bay of Naples as the whole sky turns gold.

Mezzatorre's resident aperitivo seagull

Many nights, we’d wander into the colorful tented restaurant at La Torre for dinner of local crisp white wine, coniglio all'ischitana (Ischia’s signature rabbit dish), and, of course, more pasta. The servers from lunch asked how our day went and we chatted about our next day’s plan. That’s the energy of the whole property—familial, relaxed, enjoying the moment: La Dolce Vita.

Around the island

One evening, we took a taxi to Forio. The town has whitewashed alleys and the famous Chiesa del Soccorso, a white church perched above the sea that delivers an incredible sunset view of the island. A mobile aperitivo truck had been set up along the cliff’s edge with sling chairs angled toward the water. Negroni or spritz in a plastic cup. Music in the background as the sun went down. Casual, relaxed, and easy to enjoy the moment.

Forio sunsets

From Forio, we strolled to dinner at L’Isola: the collaboration between two-star Michelin chef Nino Di Costanzo and renowned pizzaiolo Ivano Veccia. The pizza here is a serious but playful adventure through a pizza tasting menu that left us stuffed.

Another day, we took a private boat around the island. The coastline changes from green pine forest giving way to volcanic rock (Ischia is called L’Isola Verde for a reason). Pulling into Sant’Angelo was like stepping into an Italian postcard featuring small fishing boats in the harbor, the thin strip of land with water on both sides, beach chairs and striped towels, so Italian you half expect someone to be filming it. We wandered the streets for ceramics and tiles before heading back for our nightly aperitivo at Mezzatorre.

Ready for a day by the water

Our final evening was a standout at Dani Maison. Only six tables are set up in the chef’s former family home, where you’re escorted through the Mediterranean garden to your table. There is a water menu where you select your water from the Italian regions, a breadstick course, and a tasting menu that was as artful as it was delicious. We ended the night with a tour of the kitchen and a chance to meet the chef over our last bites. One of the more memorable meals we’ve had.

Our boat picked us up from the hotel’s private dock on departure day and took us directly to our next stop. There is also a ferry, but once you’ve left by private boat in a bathing suit and sunglasses, it’s hard to consider anything else.

What we didn’t get to (next time!)

A restaurant accessible only by boat, a day trip to Procida, the sandy beaches below San Montano, and a visit to the vineyards and a hike through the hills. There’s always next time!

Ischian days at sea

A day by the water

• Best time to go: We love shoulder season. The days will be longer in May. The sea will be warmer in September.

• Getting there: Hydrofoil from Naples is roughly 50 minutes. A private boat transfer directly to your hotel pier is the upgrade worth having, especially if you’re arriving with luggage or connecting from another coastal stop.

• Getting around: Taxis are easy to arrange with short notice from Mezzatorre. A private boat is the right call for anything coastal. No rental car needed.

• Dani Maison: Book in advance. Request the kitchen seats if you want to watch the team work.

• L’Isola: Reserve ahead for a collaboration between a Michelin-starred chef and famous pizzaiolo. The terrace is the spot to be with a beautiful sunset.

• Eat and drink: local! Crisp white wines and rabbit are the stars of the show (plus juicy tomatoes).

• Add-on: A day trip to Procida, an itinerary extension to Capri for the contrast between islands, or a few-night stop along the Amalfi Coast (we’re partial to Ravello for the views).

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our Ischia page.