Secrets of Bologna: la Rossa, la Grassa, la Dotta

Food tours

Lean into Bologna’s culinary traditions by having a local guide you through all the different flavors the city has to offer. Choose between biking or walking food tours to build up an appetite under the iconic porticos. Alternatively, you can take guided tours into the surrounding hills and eat at local farms overlooking the charming countryside.

Cooking classes

Love the food? Learn the secrets to the recipes and bring home the knowledge to wow your friends and family.

The seven secrets of Bologna

Dive into the local history and medieval folklore as you discover the city’s (worst-kept) secrets. The Fountain of Neptune hides an act of rebellion against the Church’s censorship, a nondescript window opens up to a picture-perfect view of canals, acoustic effects allow for whispered conversations at a distance, and three arrows embedded into a 13th century portico tell the tale of a murder thwarted with unconventional means.

Walk to San Luca

If you’re looking for a workout, you can climb the portico steps that lead to the hilltop sanctuary of San Luca. Upon reaching the top, you’ll be rewarded with a panoramic terrace view overlooking Bologna and the surrounding hills.

The two towers

These 12th century towers are the symbol of Bologna. The tall one is the Asinelli Tower: you can climb to the top for a panoramic view of Bologna. The shorter one is the Gariselda Tower, which noticeably leans to one side (even more than the Tower of Pisa) and is not open to visits.

Piazza Maggiore

This giant square is the beating heart of Bologna and features many landmarks. My favorite is the Basilica of San Petronio, which features a giant fresco of Dante’s Heaven and Hell, as well as a Meridian Line used to make complex astronomical calculations (Kepler’s Laws of Planetary Motion were first validated here).

The Seven Church Complex

The Basilica of Santo Stefano is a cluster of churches, chapels, and crypts built between the 5th and 12th centuries. The most famous is the Church of the Holy Sepulcre, which is a 1:2 replica of Christ’s empty tomb in Jerusalem.

Archiginnasio

The former main building of the University of Bologna flaunts grand staircases and beautiful frescoes. Don’t miss the imposing Stabat Mater Hall and the wood carved Anatomical Theater.

Although locals will argue endlessly about the “best” city center restaurant, the beauty of Bologna is that you’ll eat delicious food regardless of where you go. Getting lost in the porticos and entering the first restaurant that catches your eye is a perfectly valid strategy. Be on the lookout for the classics: tortellini in brodo, gramigna con salsiccia, tagliatelle al ragù (a.k.a. Bolognese sauce), lasagne (classic or verde), and cotoletta alla Bolognese.

Ristorante Da Nello

For those who prefer absolute certainty, this is my top pick for an authentic restaurant with a charming atmosphere, right in the city center. Come here for all the classics and ensure you make a reservation.

Trattoria Nonna Rosa

If you’re willing to venture outside the walls of the city center, I highly recommend this family-run trattoria. Call ahead to make sure they are open and enjoy all the local favorites.

Scacco Matto Agli Orti

Located in a green oasis within the city walls, this restaurant is arguably one of the most romantic places to dine in Bologna. Its tasting menus (both regular and vegetarian) draw inspiration from the broader Italian cuisine, so don’t come here looking for the local classics.

Ristorante I Portici

This Michelin-starred restaurant offers a refined dining experience in the heart of the city. The service is impeccable and the seven-course tasting menu with wine pairing achieves the level of excellence you’d expect from a top-tier restaurant in the food capital of Italy.

Mercato delle Erbe

For a casual lunch experience, dip into the food hall of the “Herbs Market” for local favorites. Enjoy a piadina (folded flatbread filled with a variety of fresh ingredients) from Sfarinà, or head to NOI for crescentine (puffy pillows of fried dough) or tigelle (crispy bread disks) accompanied by a platter of cheese and cold cuts.

Mercato di Mezzo

Another local market with an amazing food hall. Swing by L’Antica Bottega Bologna for piadina, crescentine, or tigelle with fresh cold cuts, or order a cone of fried tortellini to eat on the go.

La Fastuchera

Depending on how much time you spend in Bologna, you may wish to branch out beyond the local cuisine. Should this happen, I recommend this hidden gem that focuses on Sicilian dishes with an emphasis on fresh seafood.