Ancient City by the Sea: 3-Days in Cádiz, Spain

Once you arrive by train into Estacio de Cádiz, drop your bags at your hotel and walk into the old town to Plaza San Juan where you’ll experience your first glimpse of the stunning architecture and lively, friendly vibe of the city. If you’ve arrived on the early train, stop in for desayunos at the grand 1912 restaurant Café Royalty. While stepping inside might feel more like being in Paris than Spain, Café Royalty is the only historically preserved romantic restaurant in Spain and offers Andalucian breakfast (toasted bread with tomato, ham, olive oil, fresh juices, and coffee) in the most ornate (albeit touristy) surroundings.

After breakfast, peruse local goods in tiny shops as you wend your way through the streets to arrive at the stunning 18th Century Catedral de Cádiz, which features excellent examples of baroque and Gothic art and architecture. Don’t miss the stairs leading to the well-lit cathedral crypt where you’ll find the tombs of local historic figures and fine sculptures as well as the relic (preserved body) of Saint Victoria of Córdoba. Entry and audio guide are 10 Euros (free for kids), and the ticket includes entry to ascend the spiral ramp to the top of the clock tower for spectacular views of the city and the sea.

After sightseeing, it might be time for a midday glass of jerez (sherry wine) at Gorrión Wine Bar in nearby Populó. For those with kids (or who feel like one themselves), take a spin in the classic two-story carousel in the Plaza de la Catedral, offering rides, and a bit of nostalgia, for two Euros per ticket.

In the evening, venture out for Andalusian tapas and copas of regional wines at Mesón Cumbres Mayores—the octopus salad gets rave reviews. Finish your evening with handcrafted gelato at the cute and funky Heladería Pazza Mina while wandering around under the canopy of trees at Plaza Mina.

Start your day sipping café con leche and sampling artisanal French pastries (or traditional Spanish breakfast) at Le Poeme in the Plaza de Abastos.

Next, walk along the sea wall to photograph the dramatic Cádiz skyline and head to famed La Caleta Beach. Known not only for being a location in the James Bond film, “Die Another Day,” La Caleta is steeped in history as an anchoring port dating back to the 11th century BC when the Phoenecians founded the city. Bathe in the calm waters (or if you hit it during low tide, scramble along the tide pools to look for sea creatures.)

After catching some rays, head to the must-see Central Market de Cádiz to peruse the daily fresh catch and fruit stands of local vendors and to sample tapas, bocadillos, and international fare at the market’s Rincón Gastronómica.

To work off your lunch, climb to the top of Torre Tavira to the city’s camera obscura—the first ever built in Spain—to get unparalleled views of the city (reservation required). Later that evening, make your way back toward La Caleta and visit the vibrant historic Barrio La Viña for dinner at Meson Crillo, located on picturesque Calle Virgen de la Palma. Try the bacalao al ajo (garlic cod) and the patatas aliñadas (seasoned potatoes).

Or, just around the corner you’ll find arguably the most popular bar in all of Cádiz, Taberna Casa Manteca. If you don’t have an hour or more to wait for a table, pop into the Taberna and belly up to the bar to order a caña (small beer) and tortillas de camarones (fried shrimp pancake) and take in the bustling atmosphere—that is, if you can even catch the busy bartender’s attention.

After a tasty breakfast at Pastelería Casa Hidalgo near the Catedral de Cádiz, step back into history by touring the 2,000 year-old Roman Theater just around the corner in the El Pópulo neighborhood. Built around the year 70 BC, it is the second-largest Roman theater in Spain and the only one on the Iberian Peninsula. Offering free admission, the museum surrounding the theater offers a video presentation in English and allows you to go deeper into its origins before entering the actual amphitheater itself.

Take a stroll in expansive Parque Genovese where you will find a myriad of bird species (including colorful parakeets) in lush garden surroundings or head directly to Playa Santa Maria for another few hours soaking up the sun and surf. For lunch, treat yourself to tartar de atùn or any of the fresh grilled fish and a piña colada with your toes in the sand at Tirabuzòn, Playa Santa Maria’s chiringuito.

And finally, no visit to Cádiz would be complete without taking time to see an authentic flamenco dance espectáculo. As one of the birthplaces of flamenco (and part of the “Golden Triangle of Flamenco” along with Sevilla and Jerez), the spirit of this historied style of dance and music truly rings in the streets. Whether you experience a spontaneous bulerías performance in cozy Taberna Marques de Cádiz or purchase tickets for a stage performance by famous artists at historic Peña Flamenca La Perla de Cádiz, nothing will transport you more into the heart of true Andalucian culture than witnessing these incredible performers first-hand.

Before the show, dine on unique and award-winning tapas at La Taperia de Columela—don’t forget to order the plate of jamón iberico (Spain’s most famous gastronomic commodity).