A Refined Escape to Panama

We landed at Tocumen International Airport and were met right at the gate by personnel who discreetly escorted us through private doors to the FBO, where our passports were checked before boarding our charter flight. We flew east over the Panama Canal, then north along the Caribbean coast, and in just about an hour, touched down on the small airstrip in Bocas del Toro. The shift from commercial travel to something more intentional was immediate and beautiful. Everything felt calm and quietly impressive.

From there, the journey unfolded effortlessly. We were guided through the small airport, briefly inspected by a very charming golden retriever on duty, and then whisked into a black SUV for a short drive through town to the port. A few steps later, we were on the boat, greeted by our captain with cold beers and a quick introduction to the area. The smooth 20-minute ride ended at the Nayara Bocas del Toro dock. It was a relaxed and beautiful arrival that felt like an integral part of our trip, not merely just an arrival day.

We arrived at Nayara by boat and were immediately greeted at the dock by a warm, smiling staff who calmly laid out the plan for us. First, they said, we would head to reception to sit, relax, and have something to eat and drink before being shown to our villas. It was exactly what we needed, especially since we were so hungry after the journey. We ordered generously from the menu, including their ceviche, a Panamanian take on a Greek salad that was genuinely delicious, and a coconut seafood soup that somehow managed to be light while completely filling.

When we were shown to our overwater villa, we were blown away. The room itself was enormous, but it was the veranda that really stopped us in our tracks, complete with a private pool, portable fireplace, and stairs leading directly down into the water. Our friends stayed in one of the property’s four treehouses, a truly unique room category and definitely not ideal for anyone with mobility concerns. A series of stairs led to the bedroom and bathroom level, which featured an outdoor shower and a beautiful copper soaking tub. A second set of stairs climbed to a covered yet open rooftop. From there, you could see both sides of the island, and it quickly became clear why the local predator birds, the caracaras, like to perch there. Fair warning, their high-pitched screech is unforgettable.

On day two, we rented a private catamaran for a five-hour excursion that included snorkeling, excellent snacks, and stops at a few gorgeous, quiet coves. For part of the trip, the crew even raised the sail. We didn’t move particularly fast, but that almost made it better. Lying at the front of the catamaran on the netting, eyes closed, listening to the water rush beneath us, was incredibly soothing and set us further into a restorative mode.

Day three unfolded at the pace Nayara does best. We eased into a slow morning on the property, lingering over coffee before taking out the paddleboards and kayaks, all supplied by the resort, to explore the small island at our own rhythm. It was a Friday, and while we couldn’t keep the overwater villa for the final day, the Nayara team generously extended a 1 pm late checkout from our treehouse, which made all the difference. Before boarding the boat that would take us back into town, and onward to Panama City on our flytrip flight, I slipped away to the spa. The newly built spa treehouse is beautiful and serene, with an open-air ground floor where we were welcomed with a fresh local juice and a cookie, a small gesture but one which the Nayara staff are adept at executing with joy. From there, it was straight into bliss during the massage, held in an air-conditioned room with sweeping views over the island’s treetops…calm, quiet, and deeply restorative.

The boat ride back to Bocas Town gave us just enough time to reconnect with everyday life. With our driver, we wandered the streets a bit, soaking in the rhythm of the place. Kids leapt joyfully off the docks into the water. Locals moved through the markets picking up groceries, and restaurant staff began setting up for the Friday night steakhouse rush. It was unpolished, real, and grounding. Our flight departed Bocas del Toro at 5:30 pm, and as we lifted off, we chased the sunset… or the sunset chased us… as we headed west over Panama’s dense forest canopy toward Panama City. As the sky darkened, I could make out boats floating below, queued patiently and waiting for their turn to enter the Panama Canal. A brief but spirited gust of wind rocked our eight-seater plane just enough to make my heart skip, before we landed safely at the smaller Albrook airport. A quick pass through security and a 15-minute Uber ride later, we arrived at our hotel for the night, the beautiful Hotel La Compañía.

Our remaining time in Panama City was short but memorable. Dinner that evening was slow, indulgent, and deeply satisfying at El Santuario, located in the oldest section of Hotel La Compañía, dating back to 1688. The rooms were spacious and simply appointed, with modern design touches, velvety furnishings, and a bed that knocked me out cold in the best possible way. Morning came quickly, but the breakfast spread included with our stay, was nothing short of stunning. An array of beautifully executed local dishes, thoughtfully prepared and full of flavor. I ordered one last Panamanian coffee with coconut milk, lingered just a moment longer, and then we were off in an Uber to Tocumen International Airport for our nonstop 9 am flight back to Austin. I already know I’ll be back. There’s so much more of Panama, calling, the inland thermal springs and coffee plantations, and the Pacific side’s luxurious island escapes like Islas Secas and Isla Palenque. This was only the beginning.