Curator’s statement
We Stockholmers love the archipelago and head out whenever we can. Mornings by the quays, catching a steamer or fast boat, there’s a quiet sense of anticipation as the city slips away. Within minutes, Stockholm gives way to open water and more than 30,000 islands stretching toward the Baltic, with smooth granite rocks, pine forests, and small harbours. Most locals have a favourite island. Some are close enough for an easy day trip, with cafés, swimming spots, and a relaxed summer rhythm. Others are better for a few nights, where the pace slows and you feel further away than you really are. You can move around between islands, but in many cases it’s better to choose a base and settle in. Days are simple—swims off the rocks, a sauna, perhaps a boat to a nearby island for lunch, and long evenings by the water as the light lingers. Accommodation is often low-key and rustic, which is part of the appeal. But there are also a handful of boutique hotels, along with historic inns and places to eat well by the water. It’s not about seeing as much as possible, but about finding the right place and pace. Done well, a few days here becomes one of the most memorable parts of a trip to Sweden. - Mats Ulenius at Murbeaux Voyages.
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Where to stay in Stockholm, Sweden
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Things to do in Stockholm, Sweden
A swim in the Baltic, straight off the rocks. Photo by Janosch Lino.
The boat journey out: Getting there is part of the experience. Most boats depart from Strömkajen or Nybroviken in central Stockholm. Islands like Vaxholm and Sandhamn have frequent departures, while places like Dalarö can also be reached by road.
Historic steamboats: Several of Stockholm’s classic steamboats have been in service for over a century. Ships like S/S Mariefred, Norrskär and Storskär feature polished brass, wooden decks and original engines. Many serve lunch and dinner on board.
Swim and sauna: Swimming is at the heart of archipelago life. Find a smooth rock, a small beach, or a jetty and take a dip in the clear Baltic water. Many hotels have traditional saunas by the water. Smådalarö Gård also has one of Sweden’s best spas, with several saunas both indoors and by the water.
Boat to lunch: A simple pleasure is taking a boat to a neighbouring island for lunch. Fresh or smoked seafood, a glass of wine, and views over the water as boats pass by.
Vaxholm: Often called the gateway to the archipelago. A small town of pastel houses, waterfront cafés, and the historic Vaxholm Fortress just across the water.
Sandhamn: A classic outer archipelago destination with a hotel, a yacht harbour, sandy beaches, and a lively summer atmosphere, especially around the harbour. Walk to Trouville beach or stay around the waterfront.
Kayaking: A great way to explore the islands at your own pace. Paddle between coves, quiet bays, and small inlets that are otherwise hard to reach.
Walks and nature: Beyond the villages, the landscape is quiet and open. Pine forests, gravel paths, and smooth coastal rocks, ideal for slow walks and long, quiet afternoons outdoors.
Fjäderholmarna: Just 20 minutes from central Stockholm, these small islands are ideal if you have limited time. Good for a relaxed lunch and a first introduction to the archipelago.
Archipelago day tours: If you prefer a day tour, several operators offer half- or full-day boat tours from central Stockholm, often with lunch on board.
Places to eat & drink in Stockholm, Sweden
Breakfast at Smådalarö Gård, one of the archipelago’s best boutique stays and restaurants. Photo by Mats Ulenius.
Smådalarö Gård, Dalarö: A relaxed but refined setting by the water, known for its seasonal menus and generous breakfasts. A calm, countryside feel in the southern archipelago.
Restaurant J, Nacka Strand: Right on the waterfront, with wide views over the entrance to the archipelago. A coastal chic setting known for seafood, long lunches and sunset dinners by the water.
Fredriksborg Hotell & Restaurang, Värmdö: Set on a historic site overlooking the strait, this is one of the more atmospheric places to eat. Seasonal dishes, outdoor seating and wide views of passing ships.
Utö Värdshus, Utö: A classic archipelago inn reached by boat from Dalarö or Årsta Brygga. Traditional Swedish dishes, outdoor seating in summer and a lively, social atmosphere.
Waxholms Hotell, Vaxholm: A historic hotel and restaurant right on the quay. Classic Swedish dishes and a grand terrace overlooking the busy harbour and fortress.
Vaxholms Hembygdsgårds Café, Vaxholm: A well-loved, low-key spot just above the harbour. While it serves light savoury dishes, it’s best known for its generous fika buffet of traditional Swedish cakes and pastries.
Sandhamn Seglarhotell, Sandhamn: A lively spot in the yacht harbour, especially in summer. Ideal for lunch with a view of the sailboats, with a more social, energetic atmosphere in the evenings.
Sandhamns Värdshus, Sandhamn: A classic restaurant with a history dating back to the 1600s. Traditional Swedish flavours, a busy terrace and a prime position in the heart of the village.
Grinda Wärdshus, Grinda: Set on one of the most accessible islands from Stockholm. A traditional inn serving Swedish classics in a peaceful, green setting.
Fjäderholmarnas Krog, Fjäderholmarna: One of the best dining options close to the city. Seafood-focused, with a waterfront terrace and an easy boat ride from central Stockholm.
Need to know
When to go: Late June to August is peak season, with long days, warm water, and a vibrant atmosphere. May and September are often just as beautiful, but with fewer open restaurants and services.
Choosing the right island: Inner islands like Vaxholm are lively and easy to reach, while outer islands such as Sandhamn feel more remote.
Getting around: Public ferries are the main way to reach the islands, operated by Waxholmsbolaget and private lines. Plan ahead and check timetables. SL tickets are valid on certain routes, but most require a separate ticket. For popular departures, such as Sandhamn, it’s worth arriving early.
Packing: Bring layers. Even in summer, weather can shift quickly and evenings by the water can be cool. Comfortable shoes are useful for walking on rocks and gravel paths.
Swimming: Swimming is part of daily life here. Water quality is excellent, but there are rarely sandy beaches—expect rocks, jetties, and ladders into the sea.
Sauna culture: Many hotels and guesthouses have saunas, often right by the water. At hotels, they are usually mixed and swimwear is perfectly fine. Sit on a towel and keep things quiet and respectful.
Travel Advisor
Murbeaux Voyages
Mats Ulenius
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