Rio de Janeiro: A Marvelous City Stuck in the Mid-Century

The beaches

The three main beaches of Rio—and the ones you’ve probably heard of in a song or two—Copacabana, Ipanema, and Leblon, are just one long strip of sand separated by rocks and neighborhoods. The beach is part of the carioca life, and even if sun-worshiping on the sand is not your style, you’ll regret not planning a day at one of the beaches.

If you must pick just one, let it be Ipanema. Situated in between the two, Ipanema provides the best views (especially off Aproador Rock at sunset) and the best feels—from the juice bars (get an Açai flavored drink) to the vendors on the beach hawking anything and everything, to the most vibrant mix of locals and jetsetters parked on the sand. Head to legendary Posto 9 where rebels from the past threw their towels down and global celebs of the modern era get their tans.

If time allows, visit all three for a fuller experience.

Rio de Janeiro Botanical Garden/Jardim Botanico

Rio’s botanical garden is often mentioned as one of the best in the world. Unlike many of those other “best” gardens, Rio’s is special because a part of it is in the Atlantic Forest, making it a great place for both plant and wildlife sightings. Capuchin monkeys will cross paths, and if you look closely, you can spot the tiny marmoset monkeys in the low trees and toucans high up in the tall trees. While your eyes are aimed at the sky, if you find the right spot between the trees, you can see Christ the Redeemer in the distance.

It’s also a historic garden (built in 1808), one of Brazil’s oldest scientific institutions, which still conducts important research. A must-stop is the Orchidarium, the large glass greenhouse full of thousands of orchid specimens.

Christ the Redeemer and Sugarloaf Mountain

Most of the local tour companies combine a trip to both world wonders into a half-day package. Head to Christ the Redeemer as early as possible in the morning to beat the crowds (but they’ll still be there, it’s unavoidable.) It’ll be hard to take your eyes off the massive Art Deco statue, but don’t forget to take in the panoramic views of Rio while you’re up on top of Corcovado Mountain.

Part two of the tour will have you taking the two-part cable car to the top of the granite peak of Sugarloaf Mountain. More spectacular views will surround you at both cable car stops.

Downtown Rio walking tour

Take one of the free walking tours of Downtown Rio (it’s not truly free—you’ll want to tip your expert guide at the end). You’ll tour the heart of Rio, exploring colonial streets, architecture, and landmarks while your expert guide presents just the right amount of history to keep you engaged, but not overwhelmed.

Hint: when you make a quick stop at the world-famous Confeiteria Colombo bakery, instead of taking photos, get right in line for a pastry to go. After the tour, while you’re still downtown, you’ll want to make a stop at the Real Gabinete Português de Leitura for some Instagram-worthy photos.

Tijuca waterfalls & rainforest hike

Tijuca is one of the world’s largest urban rainforests and is only a 20-minute drive from Ipanema. You’ll feel far removed from the noise of the city when you step into the jungle, where it will be a few degrees cooler and hundreds of degrees calmer. If you’ve got a good guide, they might be able to find you a sloth or two hanging in the trees.

Make sure your hike includes a visit to the tallest waterfall, Cascatinha Taunay and to the Chinese-style gazebo, Vista Chinesa.

Havianas shopping

Wherever you stay in Rio, they’ll likely be a Havianas retail kiosk nearby. Everyone wears them on their feet. They are a national uniform, and you’ll find you can purchase several pairs for the price of one back home. The flagship store is in Ipanema, and there you can customize your pair if that’s your style.

Havianas are a great flip-flop investment. They are heavy, durable and don’t retain odors. If you want the real deal, get the Havianas Brasil model with the small flag. Save room in your suitcase.

Boteco Belmonte (Ipanema)

There are several locations of Boteco, but Ipanema is the one you want to reserve a table at (Copacabana is the more touristed one). The food is wonderful, especially the shrimp dishes and the empanadas. The energy of the space makes you feel like you’ve stepped into a fountain of youth. Sit outside during the day for a view of the beach activity, sit inside at night for the atmosphere. And when staff pass by hawking special treats or drinks, just say yes—it’s part of the fun (just know you’ll have a larger bill at the end of the meal.)

Zaza Bistro Tropical (Ipanema)

Reserve a table on the outdoor veranda (second choice inside) for the best tropical ambiance. The flavors from India, Morocco, and Brazil elevate both contemporary and traditional dishes—from fish to meats to octopus. Share dishes so you can sample more of the menu.

Henriqueta (Leblon)

Henriqueta, is all about the bacalhau (salt cod), a staple of Brasilian cooking. It’s a place to linger over a bottle of wine and excellent and eager-to-please service from the wait staff. Have your Google translate and patience ready, but that means you’ll feel more like a local here.

La Bicylcette (Jardim Botanico)

You’ll be hungry after a few hours in the botanical garden, so La Bicyclette makes a perfect lunch/brunch stop. This French-style bakery is another spot that feels local. The Croque Monsieur is a must.

Quiteria (Ipanema)

In the cute Ipanema Inn, Quiteria gives off the neighborhood charm of Ipanema away from the beach. The menu celebrates Brasilian comfort food and street food. It’s a great place to try the shrimp bobo and the trio of Brazilian flavored ice cream for dessert.

Aprazivel (Santa Theresa)

Get your reservation here as soon as you book your hotel for this restaurant experience high in the hills of the Santa Theresa neighborhood. If you can time it for sunset, even better, so you can see the Santa Theresa neighborhood at dusk as you pass by, the views of Guanabara Bay as the sun sets, and then the twinkling city lights down below by night. The allure of the tropical treehouse landscape may bring you there, but the food is the real star, especially their famous Palm Heart dish.

Chanchada Bar (Botafogo)

Chanchada represents the “new Rio” and is in one of the coolest neighborhoods, sometimes nicknamed “Bota-Soho.” It’s modeled after the traditional boteco, with creative bar snacks elevated to gourmet status. Try the Torresmo (pork belly.) Crowds spill out onto the street, so if Boteco Belmonte is high-energy, Chanchada is a notch up from there.