Curator’s statement
Buenos Aires, a city that holds a special place in my heart, is one of my favorite destinations in the world. It's a captivating blend of old-world European charm and vibrant Latin American culture. Having lived there for over a year, I've deeply immersed myself in the local lifestyle. Living in a place offers a unique perspective, as I've had the privilege of returning multiple times to places, reinforcing my recommendations for anyone exploring this enchanting city. As a health-conscious foodie living in a city renowned for its steak-focused culture, I've been thrilled to find delicious options that include plenty of vegetables and fish to balance the carne consumption. These are too good to keep to myself, particularly as they took some exploring to find - I hope you enjoy!
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Things to do in Buenos Aires
Visit Tres de Febrero Parque y Parque El Rosedal (Rose garden): Free to visit and wander through, particularly beautiful when all the trees are in bloom from spring through early autumn. Closed on Mondays.
Visit Jardin Japones (Japanese Garden): Gorgeous all year around thanks to an assortment of various trees and flowers always in bloom, the cherry blossoms (Sakura) typically bloom in July/August, winter in Argentina.
Feria de Artesanos (Artisanal Market) around Plaza Inmigrantes de Armenia (Plaza Armenia) in Palermo Soho on Saturday and Sunday. There's also an artisanal market near Plaza Serrano in Palermo Soho as well, Friday - Sunday.
Also depending on the time of the year, attend a polo match as the field is conveniently located in Las Canitas (a section of Palermo, not far from the parks). Argentinians are quite passionate about polo, so it's a fun experience all around!
Explore Plaza Lavalle, see the Obelisk, cross over Av. 9 de Julio (though wait for the lights!). Wander through Plaza de Mayo, taking in the historical architecture along the way.
San Telmo Markets, especially on Sundays for the local artisanal vendors (different from those in Palermo Soho!).
See a tango show. Live performers and shows can be found throughout San Telmo and Recoleta. Otherwise, there's a handful of venues and restaurants throughout the city that offer performances.
Better yet, take a tango lesson! La Viruta (in the basement of the Armenian Cultural Center at Armenia 1366 in Palermo Soho) is welcoming newbies. The crowd is a blend of both local Portenos and visitors.
Visit the Recoleta Cemetery for a fascinating experience exploring old family memorials, right in the middle of Recoleta.
Visit El Ateneo Grand Splendid Bookstore: Located in an old theater, it is a stunning bookstore to explore, have a cafe and take a break.
Depending on the time of year, watch the Boca Juniors play at the Bombonera stadium for a live football experience with die-hard fans.
Also depending on the time of the year, attend a polo match as the field is conveniently located in Las Canitas. Argentinians are quite passionate about polo, so it's a fun experience all around!
Explore Plaza Lavalle: See the Obelisk, wander through Plaza de Mayo, taking in the historical architecture along the way.
Visit Centro Cultural Kirchner for a variety of art exhibits and musical performances.
Shop for leather goods in Recoleta and also on Calle Florida, where you can visit the gorgeous Galerias Pacifico shopping center while there.
Places to eat & drink in Buenos Aires
While a trip to Buenos Aires wouldn't be complete without indulging in a juicy Argentinian steak at a parrilla, there are plenty of other culinary delights to explore. For those seeking a meat-free meal, the city offers a variety of delicious options that don't require months of advance planning. And for those traveling with meat-lovers, many of these spots still feature a steak or two on their menu, ensuring everyone can find something to savor.
Looking for a delicious lunch? These options are perfect as most are open for both lunch and dinner (and some for breakfast too).
Hours: If a restaurant serves breakfast, typically they open at 9am. However, some cafes that serve breakfast open earlier. Lunch is typically available from 12pm - 4pm. Restaurants open for dinner typically at 8pm or 7:30pm. Google maps is reliable for hours.
‘Dinner’ typically is not available until 8pm or sometimes 7:30pm, even if the restaurant is open all day. Google maps are reliable for hours.
All restaurants suggested have a variety of vegetable dishes, often fish dishes (unless noted that they're only vegetarian, and they have gluten-free options - sin TACC in Argentina - which is without wheat, oats, barley and rye); if not reflected on the menu, simply ask for options.
Restaurants
Roux: Fresh and flavor-forward Latin-Mediterranean cuisine with a variety of vegetables and plate sizes, perfect for sharing. Open for lunch and dinner, reservations recommended.
El Burladero: Spanish cuisine in a spirited space. Delicious, satisfying and savory seafood and other Spanish favorites. Perfect if dining solo or as a couple to snag seats at the bar. Plenty of space for larger groups, but reservations are best. Open for lunch with a break, then dinner.
La Causa Nikkei: Peruvian cuisine including fresh, flavorful and tender ceviche. Also well-known for their sushi. Another spot that does lunch (until 4) and dinner from 8pm.
Manduca Paseo La Plaza: A variety of restaurant options - pizza, coffee, Peruvian, Argentinian, and other cuisines. Perfect for when you need a quick bite to eat when in the Theater District. Asu Mare is especially delicious for fresh and flavorful ceviche.
Asu Mare is especially delicious for fresh and flavorful ceviche.
Croque Madame: Various locations throughout the city. The Palacio Paz location (across from the Plaza General San Martin) is a stunning spot to stop while exploring. Most restaurants are housed in a historical building, which visiting is a lovely experience in and of itself. Popular for brunch and merienda (a late-afternoon break to typically enjoy a coffee and pastry). Another beautiful location is in Palermo Chico, next to Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo.
La Alacena Trattoria (Palermo): Cozy Italian spot with a lovely outside section which serves up a variety of seafood and pasta options. Not to be missed are the antipasti, perfect for a light meal or sharing. Open for lunch and dinner.
Puerta (Palermo Soho): Vegetarian with vegan and gluten-free (sin marina) options that are so flavorful they'll make you forget you're eating vegetables. With various sized dishes, perfect for sharing or selecting two.
COWI Palermo (Palermo Soho): Offers a variety of vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free, as well as meat dishes. The large industrial space is great for groups, going solo or cozying up with your date. It’s a spirited space, serving up a wide selection of wine, beer, cocktails and non-alcoholic options. Only open for dinner from 6pm.
Benedetta Roti Cafe (Palermo): Plenty of various-sized plates, perfect for sharing. There’s a solid seafood section of the menu as well as vegetable options. Sin TACC is not reflected on latest menu, but available; also dinner is 7:30p and on.
Casa Cavia (Palermo Chico): Gorgeous old mansion turned restaurant, with a gorgeous garden serving elevated modern cuisine from 10am. Also great for a coffee and/or drink stop after visiting the Japanese Gardens and parks nearby.
Crizia (Palermo Hollywood): Seasonal, fresh and contemporary cuisine enjoyed in a gorgeous space. This is indeed an experience. A variety of options from land and sea, with plenty of vegetables, there is something for everyone.
Alma Keto BA (Palermo Hollywood): Offering a wide range of breakfast, lunch, dinner, and dessert options, this restaurant caters to keto diners without compromising on flavor. The modern yet cozy atmosphere makes it an ideal spot to relax or enjoy a leisurely meal. Much of the menu is gluten-free (sin TACC).
Sacro (Palermo Hollywood): Vegan-focused menu with seafood options. Each unique and flavor-forward. Set in a trendy yet comfortable space with a bar as well and with photo-worthy plates. It's a vibe.
Buenos Aires Verde (Palermo Hollywood): Extensive menu offering organic and vegetarian options for breakfast through dinner, some gluten-free (sin TACC as well). Portions are generous. The juices and smoothies are a refreshing accompaniment. And of course, there are tasty sweets.
Hierbabuena (San Telmo): If you find yourself in San Telmo, this is a perfect spot. Slightly past all the bustle and markets, where you can find an abundance of healthy, organic, vegetarian, gluten-free (sin TACC), and vegan options.
Drinks
Of course, Argentinian wines! But if you don't drink or you're looking for a refreshing drink to accompany your meal, try a fresh lemonade. It is often flavored with mint or ginger. All restaurants have this staple. If you prefer a sugar-free option, simply ask for 'sin azucar.'
Ice Cream
No suggestion list would be complete without ice cream!
Rapanui is worth the hype. With locations throughout the city, the largest being in Palermo Soho on Malabia (2014) and Soler. There’s seating indoors or better yet, snag a seat outdoors in the garden (there’s also an upper level). With a variety of options, including many vegan and gluten-free choices, even the most discerning ice cream connoisseurs will be impressed. While you're there, don't forget to grab some chocolates to enjoy later. They also serve excellent coffee. There’s also a convenient Rapanui location in Recoleta, on Arenales and Azcuenaga.
Need to know
Like many large cities, mind your surroundings. I know it's tempting to take photos! Keep your purse and bags close to you, and minimize walking around with your cell phone out.
For dress, you'll see a bit of everything, mostly smart casual and jeans. For footwear, sneakers are very acceptable, as well as leather boots and shoes. Athleisure not so much:)
If possible, take your pace slower, as locals do. Whether it's a leisurely coffee, merienda, or dinner, lingering and enjoying is normal. There is less urgency in restaurants and cafes, so giving yourself extra time when possible, especially if you have a commitment. This will help keep the 'tranquila' vibe.
Travel Advisor
Megan Doyle
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This guide is part of our ongoing series on travel to Buenos Aires. Looking for more travel inspiration? Check out my guide, Coffee & Cafe Culture in Buenos Aires, Argentina.