Curator’s statement
Venice is a place that holds my heart, and where I consider my home for one month every spring, when I spend four weeks immersed in language school and the rhythms of local life. My first visit, back in 2004, was a very different story—I found it touristy, didn’t care for the food, and was eager to move on to Capri. But on a later trip, something shifted. I discovered a quieter, more authentic side of the city. I learned to enjoy getting lost in the labyrinth of calli and campi, to linger in hidden squares, and to savor the magic of wandering late at night when the streets are empty, the air is still, and the only sound is the soft lap of water in the canals and our footsteps on centuries-old stones.
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Things to do in Venice
Beyond the top sights, here are a few of my favorite places in my favorite city...
Fortuny Museum: Housed in a dreamy Gothic palazzo, this museum celebrates the genius of Mariano Fortuny with textiles, paintings, and stage designs that capture the artistic soul of Venice. Pair it with a stroll through Campo Santo Stefano or a coffee nearby to savor the quiet elegance of this corner of San Marco.
Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo: A hidden gem tucked into a quiet courtyard, its elegant spiral staircase leads to a magical rooftop view of terracotta rooftops and church spires. Stop for a coffee or gelato at a nearby café to take in the slower rhythm of this neighborhood.
T Fondaco: Once a merchant’s warehouse, now a chic luxury department store, this space is worth visiting for its sleek design and its rooftop terrace with one of the best panoramas over the Grand Canal. Book the terrace slot ahead online (it’s free) and pop over to the Rialto Market nearby for a taste of Venetian daily life.
Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo: A lively neighborhood square where children kick soccer balls, locals linger at café tables, and friends gather at wine bars under the gaze of Venice’s largest Gothic church and the magnificent Scuola Grande di San Marco, now a beautifully ornate hospital. It’s a perfect spot to pause for a spritz or plate of cicchetti at Al Campanile or Rosa Salva.
Fondamenta della Misericordia: A canal-side promenade that comes alive at dusk, with neighbors chatting over cicchetti and spritz, children riding bikes, and music spilling out from cozy bars and trattorias. Try Vino Vero for a natural wine tasting or Al Timon for a drink on a moored gondola.
Torcello: A quiet, pastoral island where time slows down. Wander past vegetable gardens and along peaceful footpaths to see the lagoon’s oldest cathedral and its glittering Byzantine mosaics, then linger over lunch at Locanda Cipriani. Pair your visit with colorful Burano, just a short vaporetto ride away.
Alberoni Beach: A serene stretch of sand at the tip of the Lido, loved by locals for its rolling dunes, pine forest, and relaxed beach clubs that invite long, lazy afternoons. Combine with a bike ride down the Lido for a perfect summer day.
Borges’ Labyrinth: A cypress-lined maze inspired by Jorge Luis Borges’ writings, offering a meditative, almost secret escape on the island of San Giorgio Maggiore. Afterward, visit Palladio’s luminous church and climb the island’s clock tower for sweeping views over the lagoon and Venice itself.
Musica a Palazzo: An intimate, immersive opera experience set inside a historic palazzo, where the audience follows the performers from room to room as the story unfolds. Book ahead, dress smartly, and enjoy a night that feels like stepping back into 18th-century Venice.
Church Parrocchiale di Pantalon: A small, unassuming church that hides a spectacular secret: a vast ceiling painted on canvas, glowing with color and drama just above your head. Pair it with a stop at nearby Campo Santa Margherita for a lively, student-filled aperitivo scene.
Places to eat & drink in Venice
Al Covo: A beloved slow-food restaurant serving refined Venetian cuisine with a focus on local, seasonal ingredients and an excellent wine list. Perfect for a special night out.
Trattoria al Gatto Nero: A beloved institution on Burano, this family-run trattoria is renowned for its ultra-fresh lagoon seafood, traditional Venetian recipes, and warm hospitality, making it the perfect spot for a leisurely, authentic island meal.
Alle Testiere: Tiny and always in demand, this seafood gem is known for its market-fresh dishes and intimate atmosphere—book well in advance.
Bar Longhi: The Gritti Palace’s jewel-box bar, with Murano glass chandeliers and canal views, ideal for a glamorous pre-dinner cocktail or nightcap.
Oliva Nera: Nestled in the Castello district, just a short stroll from Piazza San Marco, this warm, family-run osteria serves up classic Venetian dishes (think baccalà mantecato, sarde in saor, and fried zucchini flowers) in a charming setting with the warmest service.
Vino Vero: A lively Cannaregio natural wine bar with just a handful of tables—go for cicchetti and stay for the people-watching along the canal.
Venice M’Art: A stylish, modern café and concept store by the Grand Canal, perfect for a chic breakfast, light lunch, or aperitivo with a view.
Majer: A local favorite bakery and café with multiple locations, ideal for a morning espresso, a sweet pastry, or a casual snack on the go.
Al Timon: A quintessential Cannaregio spot where you can sip wine or spritz on a moored gondola, surrounded by locals and great cicchetti.
Antica Locanda Montin: A charming, art-filled trattoria with a leafy garden, serving classic Venetian dishes in a timeless, bohemian setting.
Al Squero: A cozy bacaro across from one of Venice’s last working gondola boatyards—a perfect stop for cicchetti with a view of gondolas being repaired.
Caffé Lavena and Caffè Florian: Two favorite historic cafés on Piazza San Marco, where you can sit with a coffee or cocktail, listen to live music, and watch the square come to life. Tip: You can stand inside Caffè Lavena for local prices—pay the cashier first.
Locanda Cipriani: Ernest Hemingway’s favorite on Torcello, offering an elegant yet rustic lagoon-side lunch in a romantic garden setting.
Venissa: A Michelin-starred restaurant on Mazzorbo with a focus on hyper-local ingredients and wine from the island’s own vineyard—a true lagoon dining experience.
Need to know
Arriving in style: Consider booking a private water taxi from the airport to your hotel. It’s a splurge but unforgettable, offering your first magical views of Venice from the lagoon.
Getting around: Venice is a walking city, but the vaporetto (water bus) is perfect for longer distances or a scenic ride down the Grand Canal (Line 1 is the most beautiful route).
CheBato app: Download the CheBato app for real-time vaporetto schedules and route planning—it makes navigating the waterways effortless.
Museum Pass: The Venice Museum Pass offers skip-the-line access to top museums, including the Doge’s Palace and Correr Museum, and can save both time and money.
Packing essentials: Bring comfortable, flat shoes (cobblestones and bridges!) and a small, lightweight umbrella—Venice is as beautiful in the rain as it is in the sun.
Early & late magic: The best time to experience Piazza San Marco and the canals is early morning or late at night, when the day-trippers are gone and Venice feels hushed and timeless.
Dining reservations: Book popular restaurants (like Alle Testiere or Al Covo) well in advance. Venice’s best spots are small and fill up quickly.
Aperitivo hour: Join the locals for a spritz and cicchetti in the early evening at a bacaro—it’s one of the most authentic Venetian experiences.
Island day trips: Allow a day (or at least half a day) for the lagoon islands: Burano for color, Torcello for history, Mazzorbo for Venissa’s vineyard, and the Lido for the beach.
Be curious: Get lost on purpose. Venice rewards wanderers with hidden courtyards, quiet canals, and tiny workshops that most visitors never find.
Travel Advisor
Amy Baker
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