Four Days in Dublin: The Ultimate Traveler’s Guide

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Advisor - Kay Marshall
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Kay Marshall

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Advisor - Four Days in Dublin: The Ultimate Traveler’s Guide
Curator’s statement

Dublin holds a special place in my heart. It's one of the first European cities where I spent months living solo, and it became a home away from home. Many of my closest friends live in Dublin and other parts of Ireland. I've always felt a deep connection to the country's rich history, poetry and warm, welcoming people. I love the rainy weather, the endless opportunities to explore and the sense of escape Dublin provides.

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Day 1: Getting your feet wet (pack rain boots)

Library of Trinity College

Morning: Trinity College, Book of Kells and a book-less library

Start the morning with coffee and pastries at Keogh’s Cafe on Trinity St., a local favorite with Dubliners hustling in to grab a morning brew and breakfast sliders. There’s both indoor and outdoor seating so you can relax and review the map before starting your day.

  • Tip: If you’re short on time, Keogh's also has a small takeaway shop located on College Green, right next to Trinity College.

After a wake-up call, coffee and juice, take a five-minute walk over to historic Trinity College. Walk through the gate and beyond the enormous wooden door to find yourself standing in the sprawling courtyards of this 435 year-old university. Feel free to wander much of the grounds on your own or sign up for a student-led tour to get a genuine, locals-only, experience of the campus and its history.

One of my favorite things to see at Trinity College is the Book of Kells, a 9th-century hand-painted manuscript that is one of Ireland’s cultural treasures. Only a few pages of the book are on display at any given time. I’ve seen a different page every visit, and each one has been breathtaking.

The Book of Kells entry ticket includes The Old Library. This jaw-dropping room looks like you’ve walked right onto the set of a Harry Potter film. But be aware! The shelves are currently empty. The centuries-old books housed in this room have been moved to a climate-controlled space for the purpose of restoration and preservation. All is not lost, however, there are several sculpted busts of philosophers, an original 14th century Brian Boru Harp and a copy of the Irish Declaration of Independence to view as you walk down the magnificent corridor lined floor to-ceiling with empty bookshelves.

As of this writing, there is a separate building just outside the Gift Shop that displays an immersive experience with a virtual stroll through the “book shelves”. Take a look, as this is also included in the ticket price.

  • Important Tip: Book timed tickets in advance. Tickets quickly sell out at peak times.

Afternoon: whiskey, galleries, food & drink

Just outside the gates of Trinity College is the Irish Whiskey Museum. It's more of an Irish Whiskey Tasting Tour than a museum, and it's a fun way to learn about Irish whiskey. After your flight and lesson, you’ll comfortably be able to describe and order a single-grain, malt or a lot still whiskey like a pro.

If Irish whiskey is not your thing, you might want to check out the National Gallery of Ireland nearby. It’s about one block east of Trinity College. Entry is free of charge, and I often wander through these halls to escape the crowded city streets for an hour or two. Enjoy beautiful pieces of art in this lovely museum. Explore the various rooms or just relax on a bench and enjoy a painting or two. Across the street from The National Gallery is St Stephen’s Green. When the weather is…decent, this is a perfect city park to wander pathways next to ponds or sit on a bench and people-watch for a bit.

Don’t forget to feed yourself! Before or after continuing to other local cultural adventures, opt for lunch at Wilde. I’m charmed by this little restaurant’s elegant 1930’s vibe with its lush greenery and unique dining room spaces. The perfect place for channeling your inner Oscar Wilde. Choose dishes created with locally sourced Irish produce, a bit of traditional fare as well as classic offerings from around the world.

On your way back from a long day’s adventures, take a walk down Grafton Street to shop or just stop and listen to one of the many street performers (often called buskers) along the avenue. Be sure to explore the side streets for local vintage shops and hidden gems like Jenny Vander. They’ve got a really unique selection of pre 1960s evening and cocktail dresses, shawls, stoles, beaded tops and jackets. Perfect for last minute accessories before a night on the town.

Evening: From Buskers to Speakeasy’s

Take a rest. Relax in your hotel room. Shower up for a fun night ahead. Feeling peckish and ready to venture out again after a rest and hot shower? I’d head out to Boss Stop for Asian small bites on South St. George’s Street. If seafood is what you’re craving, check out Glover’s Alley, where the focus is on local ingredients, like prawns from Dublin Bay or John Dory from the western coast of Cork.

Now for the fun stuff…and a nightcap. Check out the underground bar scene at the Blind Pig. Like every speakeasy worthy of the name, it has an unmarked entrance. Be sure to book ahead to get the secret directions. The space is sophisticated, the service impeccable and the bartenders will shake up a perfectly crafted cocktail, just for you. There is a second, even more hidden speakeasy nearby, called The Little Pig. Be sure to book in advance and get the secret entrance information, if you’re lucky enough to score a spot for the evening.

As with most restaurants and hidden spots in Dublin, it is very important to call for reservations a day or more in advance. Dublin is a very popular dining city and tables do fill up fast. Trust me on this one, I’ve been left standing out in the cold on a busy night before.

Day 2: Dive into Irish history

River Liffey Samuel Beckett Bridge

Morning: Local breakfast and one Rebellious Tour

Breakfast this morning is at a spot that’s as Irish as they come. The takeaway shop, Declan and Donal’s at 34 Bolton St, is a local mainstay run by two brothers who know most of their customers by name. There’s nothing fancy about the decor. No need to be when it’s the breakfast rolls that are the stars of the show. The first time I came into this shop I got the classic bacon and egg and I was hooked!

Next, take a two-hour walking tour with my good friend, Lorcan Collins. The 1916 Rebellion Tour is, hands down, the best educational walk in the entire city. The tour meets up at The International Bar on Wicklow Street. Arrive early if you’d like to grab a morning pint. Lace up your walking shoes and bring your most challenging questions to try and stump the historian. Be sure to tell him Kay sent you.

After the tour with Lorcan, walk on over to the Oval Bar for an Irish Stew, a pint of Guinness and to rest your tired feet. Steeped in the social, cultural and political heritage of Ireland, The Oval is one of Dublin’s most historically fascinating pubs. It is unique among Dublin pubs in that it was caught up in the maelstrom of revolution during the 1916 Rising, again during the Civil War in 1922, and though severely damaged, has survived as one of Dublin’s great licensed landmarks.

As a bonus, the much talked about Dublin Portal is just two blocks from The Oval. It’s worth a look simply for the entertainment as passersby attempt to make sense of this crazy thing and maybe even try to communicate with the city onlookers viewing from the other side.

Afternoon: searching for ancestors

If you’re still feeling energetic and haven’t yet got your fill of Irish history, take a walk along the River Liffey toward the EPIC Emigration Museum. You can enjoy a self-guided walk through the many rooms that detail the history of the Republic of Ireland and her people. Should you be interested in exploring your own Irish ancestry, there are genealogists on site to help you find and explore your family tree. Make sure to make an appointment for this service several days or weeks in advance. There is an additional charge for a private 30 minute consultation with a genealogist. This service is not included in the price of admission to the museum.

Evening: light bites and music in Temple Bar

For a light and unique dinner, stop in to Cornucopia on Wicklow Street near George’s Street Arcade. This little vegan restaurant serves up absolutely delicious soups, salads and wraps. They’ve always got a terrific selection of wines on offer as well.

For another dinner option, if you’re ready to venture into the energetic Temple Bar neighborhood, why not slip into Gallagher’s Boxty House for a traditional Irish Boxty or creamy chowder? (A Boxty is a traditional Irish potato pancake, and this place really does it up well.) The service is terrific, with servers eager to share local tips and conversation about the area. Be sure to request a window seat so you can watch the crowd pass by on the street outside.

After dinner, walk across the street to Oliver St. John Gogarty’s Pub for some of the best local music performances in Temple Bar. If you’re lucky, you’ll be there when Dave Dunne is on stage. Be sure to bring your favorite requests. From here, walk deeper into Temple Bar and stop in at The Old Storehouse. This well-known pub will be very crowded…and that’s only half the fun! The performers here are top-notch, with Fridays featuring Irish Dancers. Push your way up to the bar, don’t be shy, order a pint and squeeze in to share a table with the locals. Sit a spell and sing along to your heart’s content. This venue does have two stages, one upstairs and one down, making it easy to enjoy two different performers in one location.

If you decide to move on, get outside and wander the streets, pushing through throngs of people and ducking into one pub after another until you’re too tipsy or flat-out exhausted to go any further. It’s great craic and sure to be a night you will not soon forget. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself dreaming of becoming a regular at many of these spots.

Day 3: Drink the Ruby Red

Guinness Storehouse, St, James Gate

Morning: Beat the crowds to the Guinness Storehouse

Morning is by far the best time to visit the Guinness Storehouse, the city’s most popular tourist attraction. After a night out in Temple Bar, I typically walk to this tour and I like to stop at Copper + Straw for my wake-up call, coffee and juice on the way. It’s a modern cafe with delicious coffee and scrumptious pastries. Copper + Straw has two locations, one in Temple Bar (which is really fun to walk through before the city wakes up) and another nearer to Guinness.

Arriving at Guinness early…when the doors open, is a must. Buy timed tickets in advance, since this attraction definitely sells out fast. There are a variety of “experiences" on offer at this enormous seven-floor warehouse, from the lower-priced self-guided tour of the exhibits to a docent-led walk beneath the warehouse in underground tunnels and into the brewery itself. And yes, every ticket option includes a pint in the Gravity Bar upstairs. At the very least, I highly recommend adding the Guinness University Experience to your ticket, especially if you’re visiting with a few friends.

Be aware, the seven levels take about two hours to explore and you’ll want to enjoy the outstanding 365º views of Dublin while downing a pint from the top-floor Gravity Bar. This bar gets very crowded by noon, so if you want good seats with a stellar city view, get there early.

Afternoon: An old Pub, an old Church and a well-deserved lunch

On your way back into the city center, consider stopping into the oldest pub in Ireland, The Brazen Head. You won’t be disappointed and you’ll be able to tell your friends back home that “yes, you did stop there”, when they ask about your trip. Trust me, they will ask about Brazen Head. And if another pint is the last thing you’re thinking about, take a walk over to Christ Church Cathedral instead. This gorgeous gothic cathedral was originally a Viking church. It is now a working Anglican cathedral and an architectural masterpiece, evident from the moment you enter the magnificent Nave with its vaulted ceilings and medieval tiled floor.

Feeling peckish after drinking all that yummy Guinness Stout? Stop for lunch at Pichet, one of my personal favorites for lunch or dinner, as I often stay, on solo trips, right around the corner at Wren Urban Nest. Order the Bay Mussels and Pork Belly Confit…absolutely amazing!

Take the rest of the afternoon and evening to return to places you’ve enjoyed or try something new. Shop for souvenirs or something pretty for yourself around George’s Street Arcade (My friend Barry, of Doyle Design, creates many incredible pieces of jewelry in his workshop here.) Or just get lost along the cobbled alleyways around town.

Day 4: Howth Head walk and seaside views

Howth Harbor

Morning: Last day in the city…get out of the city

Dublin is a city on the water, but it’s not exactly a tropical paradise. Ireland boasts nearly the most rainfall of any country on the planet. Having said that, you do not want to overlook the spectacular seaside towns, cliffs and beaches on this diverse little island. And you don’t need to travel to Cork or Galway to enjoy a day by the sea. The charming seaside town of Howth is an hour's train ride away. Options to drive to Howth in only 25 minutes include hiring or renting a car through a service like Orbit Car Hire. However, picking up and dropping off the car needs to be factored into your timeline for the day.

The harbor here is small and charming, with several good restaurants serving up plates of seafood and rich bowls of chowder. The DART station is right next to the docks, so it’s a fairly easy little area to navigate. For the more adventurous traveler, I highly recommend a walk around Howth Head. This path winds along the edge of the cliffs overlooking the Irish Sea with stunning panoramas of wildlife, the lighthouse and mounds of blooming yellow gorse. It’s a seven-kilometer loop and takes about two hours to complete. If you choose to drive to Howth, instead of taking the DART, there are 3–4 car parks at various trailheads along the loop.

After your long walk, have a bite to eat at the Pier House. My son and I stopped in here on our last visit to Howth and ate more mussels than I’ve ever had in one sitting. Delicious!

Another lunch spot to try is the wildly popular King Sitric Restaurant. (It’s big. It’s red. You can’t miss it.) King Sitric also has a handful of themed guest rooms should you consider staying longer in Howth or returning here on your next trip to Ireland.

And lastly, if the luck of the Irish is with you, and the day is sunny, make a reservation at Aqua and take in the views. This gorgeous restaurant with its seaside views, will have you wishing you could stay all afternoon. And yes, they serve…seafood. Howth’s famous residents have included W.B. Yeats, Bono, Dolores O’Riordan and Phil Lynott, just to name a few. After visiting this lovely beachside village, you’ll understand why they chose to call Howth, “home”.

Evening: End your holiday with a night of “Trad” music

Back in Dublin on your final night in town, it’s time to take in a show. One of my favorite’s for live music is The Cobblestone. This beloved local pub has been a family-owned spot for the past 35 years. It’s a vibrant hub for traditional Irish music, dance and culture. Some of the best players in town turn out for nightly jam sessions. It’s often standing room only and a place that’s definitely worth being on your feet for. If a bit of a smaller crowd is what you’re after, but still looking for some excellent performances, check out O’ Donoghue’s or Devitt’s.

Pack your bags and get ready for the flight home tomorrow morning. Try not to shed a tear on your ride to the airport.

Need to know

There are so many more things to see and do in this fabulously energetic city. The rich culture, history and friendships draw me back to Ireland again and again.

Four days in Dublin is a great start, but this itinerary is certainly not exhaustive.

If you’re interested in adding more days or want a more curated itinerary, I’d be delighted to design and book a bespoke experience. I'll share with you my favorite hotels, haunts, tours and hidden shopping spots in and around Dublin.

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our Dublin page.

Advisor - Kay Marshall

Travel Advisor

Kay Marshall

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