A Spoonies Guide to Hakone, Japan

(Reminder: if you live with chronic illness, please don’t pressure yourself to “do it all.” One of these per day is more than enough to make your trip memorable.)

• Take a boat on Lake Ashi: Cruise across Hakone’s iconic crater lake and soak up the mountain air. The boats have comfortable indoor, air-conditioned seating areas, though regular class fills up quickly. If you’re especially symptomatic, consider upgrading to first class—it’s quieter, much less crowded, and looked very comfortable.

• Drive out to Mishima Sky Walk: About a 30-minute drive on easy roads from Hakone, this suspension bridge gives incredible views of Mount Fuji, Suruga Bay, and lush forests. The site is fully paved and flat, with a huge free car park. You don’t need to walk across the full bridge to appreciate the views, and there are excellent toilet facilities, snack stands, full meal options, and souvenir shops—making it an accessible and stress-free outing.

• Ride the Hakone Tozan Railway: Start your journey from Hakone-Yumoto Station, where there is nearby parking if you’re driving. From there, the train zigzags up the mountainside, reversing direction multiple times on steep switchbacks. The ride itself is the highlight, winding past cedar forests and hydrangea valleys, and you can simply ride up and back down without needing to explore further.

• Relax in an onsen (if your illness permits): Hakone is famous for its hot springs, many of which are in hotels or ryokan. If your condition allows, soaking in a mineral-rich bath with mountain views is a classic Hakone experience.

• Stroll the Hakone Open-Air Museum: This outdoor art museum is set in a valley and features sculpture gardens, a Picasso pavilion, and wide paths. There is on-site parking, making it easy to drive straight in. The open-air setting, benches, and fresh air make it a calmer experience than a traditional indoor museum.

• Stop at Owakudani on the Hakone Ropeway: This volcanic valley is famous for its steaming vents and sulfurous hot springs. It has the largest car park on the ropeway line, so you can drive directly there if the ropeway itself feels overwhelming. From the car park, it’s just a short, mostly flat walk to viewing areas, shops, and the famous black eggs boiled in the hot springs. Just avoid busy Sunday mornings when the line to even get in the parking lot is miles down the road.

• Savor a traditional kaiseki meal: Many ryokan and hotels in Hakone offer elaborate multi-course dinners, beautifully presented with seasonal ingredients. Dining this way is as much about the artistry and atmosphere as it is about the food, and it can be one of the most restorative experiences of your stay.

• Gora Brewery & Grill: A relaxed spot near Gora Station with craft beer brewed on-site and a menu of hearty Japanese—Western fusion dishes. Spacious seating and a calm, airy setting make it an easy place to linger without rushing.

• Itoh Dining by Nobu: Set in a converted traditional house, this restaurant serves beautifully prepared wagyu beef, seasonal vegetables, and Nobu-inspired flavors. It’s a good choice if you want a special meal without committing to a full kaiseki experience.

• Amazake Chaya: A 400-year-old teahouse on the old Tokaido road, still serving its namesake amazake (a sweet, non-alcoholic fermented rice drink) alongside simple snacks like rice cakes. With its rustic charm and low-key menu, it’s a restful stop rather than a rushed dining experience. And perfect for those of us who can’t drink alcohol.

• Tamura Ginkatsutei: Famous for its fluffy tofu—pork cutlets, this long-running spot in Gora draws both locals and visitors. The portions are generous, the food is comforting, and it’s especially good if you need something protein-rich and satisfying.

• Sushi Miyafuji: A small, family-run sushi restaurant in Gora known for fresh fish and accommodating service. They are used to visitors with dietary needs and can often prepare gluten-free soy sauce on request, making it one of the easier, safer bets in Hakone.

• Box Burger Hakone: A casual, modern burger spot with indoor seating and easy parking nearby. They’re known for juicy burgers (including gluten-free bun options), relaxed vibes, and being one of the more straightforward, low-effort dining choices in Hakone. (Just don’t eat the fries, sadly if you’re GF as they only have one fryer).

• Gora Kadan Kaiseki: An iconic ryokan (and former imperial summer villa), Gora Kadan is known for impeccable multi-course kaiseki meals using seasonal and local ingredients. It’s luxury pricing, but the dining experience is often cited as one of the very best in Hakone.