A Local’s Guide to Helsinki

On the water

One of the best things about Helsinki is how close you are to the water at all times. The ferries make it easy to hop between islands right off the city’s coast:

• Suomenlinna: A UNESCO World Heritage site and my top pick if you only have time for one island. Wander through its fortress walls, picnic on the grass, and soak in sea views.

• Lonna: A tiny island with a relaxed vibe, known for its sauna and restaurant.

• Vallisaari: A lush, nature-filled island with walking trails and historic ruins.

• Pihlajasaari: A summertime favorite for locals, with sandy beaches, rocky shores, and nature trails. Perfect for a beach day or seaside picnic.

Pro tip: The same HSL ferry pass works for the main islands, though Pihlajasaari has its own summer ferry service.

Sauna and seaside relaxation

Public saunas are a cornerstone of Finnish culture, and they’re a must-try in Helsinki. For visitors, here are two great (bathing-suit-required) options:

• Löyly: My favorite. A sleek, design-forward sauna right on the water. Between sauna sessions, you can take a plunge in the Baltic Sea, enjoy a meal in the restaurant, or stroll along the wooden boardwalk. Afterward, grab a drink on the patio at Birgitta, and take a stroll through Kaivopuisto Park.

• Allas Sea Pool: Located downtown by Market Square, this is a popular and convenient option with pools and saunas overlooking the harbor.

City center highlights

• Amos Rex: A striking underground art museum that always has inventive exhibitions.

• Esplanadi (Esplanade Park): The city’s “living room.” Stroll, people-watch, and stop for a coffee at Café Esplanade (try the korvapuusti, a giant cinnamon roll). Or sit on the terrace at Kappeli, a historic glass café, for some of the best people-watching in town.

• Market Square (Kauppatori): Bustling with food stalls and souvenirs, and the departure point for island ferries.

• Senate Square (Senaatintori): Home to the city’s iconic white cathedral and often the backdrop for events and seasonal markets. In December, this is where you’ll find Helsinki’s main Christmas Market, filled with festive stalls, lights, and mugs of steaming glögi (Finnish mulled wine).

• Katajanokka: One of my favorite neighborhoods, known for its Art Nouveau architecture. The walk there from Esplanadi takes you past the Presidential Palace.

• Oodi Library: A masterpiece of architecture and public space. Winner of the 2019 IFLA Public Library of the Year, the AZ Awards, and more. It’s a “living room in the city”—part library, workshop, gallery, café, cinema, and community space.

• Helsinki Distilling Company (Teurastamo): Perfect for gin lovers. You can book Friday or Saturday distillery tours with tastings—a behind-the-scenes dive into Finnish spirits.

• Teurastamo (near Kalasatama): An urban food court and public space housed in a former slaughterhouse. It’s known for artisan food halls, events, a rentable sauna, and yes—B-Smokery, a standout barbecue gem when the weather’s nice.

• Archipelago boat tour: A must in warmer months. Take a sightseeing cruise through Helsinki’s 300+ islands for sea breezes, city views from the water, and a true feel for why the archipelago is the city’s soul.

Getting around

• Helsinki is compact, so walking is often the best way to explore. For longer trips, download the HSL app to buy tickets for metro, bus, and trams.

• City bikes are also a great way to get around—just €5 for a day pass. These are only available seasonally, usually April–October.

If you have more time: a day trip to Tallinn

From Helsinki, you can take a 2-hour ferry ride across the Gulf of Finland to Tallinn, Estonia. The medieval Old Town feels like stepping into a storybook, with cobblestone streets, pastel buildings, and spires peeking over the rooftops. Spend the day wandering, enjoy hearty Estonian food, and pop into local design shops before heading back to Helsinki in the evening.

Check out my Helsinki Restaurant Round-Up: A Local's Perspective for my recommendations of places to eat and drink.