A City of Light, Tiles & Layers: Why Lisbon Captivates

Catch the sunset from Miradouro da Senhora do Monte

This miradouro is my favorite because it feels slightly removed from the usual crowd—fewer selfie sticks, more locals perched on the stone wall sharing snacks and bottles of soda or beer, and more breathtaking views over terra-cotta rooftops and the castle in the distance. Bring a bottle of wine and settle in early—it gets golden fast.

Ride Tram 28 through the city’s historic heart

Yes, it’s touristy. And yes, it’s worth it. I always tell clients to treat it like an old-fashioned rollercoaster through history—grab a seat if you can and let the rattling windows frame snapshots of Alfama’s alleys, tiled facades, and sleepy balconies strung with laundry. Early morning or late-evening rides feel more intimate and less packed.

Listen to live fado in Alfama

Lisbon has no shortage of cool bars, but Foxtrot is one of those rare places that makes you feel like you’re in on a secret. Hidden behind an unassuming door on a quiet residential street, this Art Deco speakeasy is all dim lighting, vintage booths, and amazing cocktails. I slipped in one night after dinner in Bairro Alto and ended up lingering for hours over an old-fashioned while a jazz record played low in the background. Order the house Negroni or ask the bartender what they’re loving lately—they know what they’re doing. Go late and soak it in.

Get lost in the tiled alleys of Alfama

Alfama is one of the few parts of Lisbon that still feels lived-in. One afternoon, I followed the sound of fado coming from an open window and ended up in a tiny wine bar with no name, just a couple of stools and a local pouring glasses behind the counter. Don’t use Google Maps here—just turn corners, touch old walls, and say yes to whatever catches your eye.

Explore LX Factory

Tucked beneath the 25 de Abril Bridge, this old industrial complex turned creative hub is a vibe. Think bookstores built into old warehouses, rooftop bars, vintage markets, and bold street art everywhere. I bought a handmade ceramic mug here that I still use every morning—it always brings me back.

Taste pastel de nata from the original bakery

Yes, you can get pastel de nata everywhere—but the original at Pastéis de Belém is next-level. Still made from a secret recipe dating back to 1837, these are crisp, creamy, and just slightly caramelized on top. I always order two and eat them standing at the counter with a dusting of cinnamon and powdered sugar. Come early in the day to skip the tour bus lines.

Take a day trip to Sintra

Sintra looks like something straight out of a storybook: forested hills, pastel palaces, and ivy-covered ruins perched high above the clouds. It’s only 40 minutes from Lisbon by train, but it feels like another world. I always suggest starting early and heading straight to Palácio da Pena before the crowds. Then wander through the gardens of Quinta da Regaleira, where underground tunnels, hidden wells, and mossy paths create a dreamlike adventure. Pack comfy shoes, bring water, and leave room for a slice of travesseiro (a pillow-soft puff pastry filled with almond cream) from Piriquita in the Old Town.

Walk along the waterfront in Belém

Belém is where Lisbon meets the sea. You’ll find towering monuments like the Monument to the Discoveries, ornate Gothic masterpieces like Jerónimos Monastery, and wide promenades perfect for an afternoon wander. I love renting a bike and cruising along the river, stopping to watch boats and locals fish off the pier. This is also where you’ll find Pastéis de Belém, and yes, the lines can get long—but it’s worth it for a pastel eaten warm, on a bench, under the Portuguese sun. If you’re up for a splurge, end the day with sunset drinks at À Margem, a sleek, glass-walled café right on the water.

Visit the National Tile Museum (Museu Nacional do Azulejo)

If you’re even mildly obsessed with Lisbon’s tilework (like I am), this is your place. I loved it not just for the art, but also for how quiet and serene it felt. There’s a café tucked into the old cloisters with light pouring in and birdsong echoing through the tiled courtyard. Perfect post-museum espresso stop.

Dine on fresh seafood at a no-frills local tasca

There’s something deeply satisfying about eating fresh fish in a tiny tasca where the decor hasn’t changed in decades. One of my favorite meals was grilled dourada served with boiled potatoes and lemon, chased with crisp vinho verde and the hum of locals arguing about football. No fuss, no frills—just honest, flavorful food that tastes like home cooking by the sea. Look for spots with handwritten menus, tiled walls, and tables full of regulars.

Taberna da Rua das Flores (mid-range)

This place is intimate, soulful, and just unpredictable enough to keep you on your toes. The menu changes daily, written in chalk and full of dishes that balance rustic flavors with creative flair. One night, I had grilled sardines with citrus and pickled onions that made me want to cancel all my other plans. Order a glass of local vinho branco and trust your server—it’s all about the rhythm of the meal here. Come early—there are no reservations and it fills fast.

Ponto Final (affordable to mid-range)

Getting to Ponto Final is half the magic. You take a ferry across the river to Almada, walk past old shipyards, and suddenly there it is. It’s humble in the best way. Order the octopus rice (arroz de polvo) or fried sardines, sip chilled white wine, and linger until the sun drops behind the bridge. Hands down one of the most memorable meals I’ve ever had while traveling.

Prado (upscale)

Prado is where I send people who want something seasonal, chic, and quintessentially modern Portuguese. The room is all clean lines and greenery, and the food is understated. Try the razor clams with smoked butter or the beetroot tartare with goat cheese. And their natural wine list? Spot-on.

Cervejaria Ramiro (mid-range)

Forget the white tablecloths—this is seafood, Lisbon-style. Ramiro is loud, fast, and full of energy, and it’s where I go when I want to feel the city beating. Go for the garlic clams (amêijoas à Bulhão Pato), the grilled tiger prawns, and—don’t skip this—the steak sandwich (prego) at the end. It sounds odd finishing seafood with beef, but it’s a Ramiro rite of passage. Expect a wait, but it’s part of the fun.