Cádiz: A Timeless Surprise in Europe's Oldest Port

I arrived in Cádiz expecting a quaint, sleepy coastal town, but I was met with a city that is as grand in scale as it is in history. As Europe’s oldest continuously inhabited port, the weight of its Phoenician and Roman roots is felt in every massive stone wall and golden-domed landmark. It is a city that demands you look up—and then look again—to fully grasp how it has served as a gateway to the world for millennia.

A statue of singer Juanito Villar

What truly makes Cádiz a "wonderful surprise" is how it has managed to stay authentically Andalusian despite its size. In an era where many coastal gems feel tailored for tourists, Cádiz feels tailored for its people. Walking through the fisherman's quarter of La Viña or getting lost in the narrow, cannon-lined streets, you realize that the city’s heart isn't in a museum, but in the lively "Gaditano" humor found in its taverns and markets.

The narrow streets

The true magic happens in the simple, local rituals: a sunset stroll along the Paseo de la Alameda Apodaca or a stand-up tapa at a centuries-old ultramarinos. There is a sense of "friendship and discretion" in the air, a local philosophy I found written across a bar that perfectly summarizes the Cádiz experience. It is a place where the locals' warmth makes you feel like you’ve discovered a secret that the rest of the world hasn't quite caught onto yet.

I recommend Cádiz for the "curious traveler"—the one who loves deep historical layers but wants to avoid the polished, high-traffic feel of more famous capitals. It’s perfect for solo travelers seeking safety and soul, or couples looking for a romantic backdrop that feels raw and real. If you’re willing to trade the "standard" sights for a city where you can truly get lost in time, Cádiz will not disappoint.

Things to do

• Paseo de la Alameda Apodaca: This romantic promenade features stunning checkered tiles and Sevillian ceramics. Fun fact: The massive ficus trees here were brought from Cuba over a century ago.

• Cádiz Cathedral and Torre Tavira: Climbing the Torre Tavira provides the best 360-degree panoramic view of the old city. Fun fact: In 1778, it was the port's official watchtower due to its high vantage point.

• La Caleta Beach: This golden cove is the heart of Cádiz. Fun fact: It served as a double for Havana in the James Bond film Die Another Day.

Places to eat & drink

• Ultramarinos El Veedor: A local gem for perfectly cooked lamb chops and authentic tapas.

• Taberna Casa Manteca: A legendary bullfighting-themed bar where standing at the counter is part of the local experience.

• Mercado Central de Abastos: One of Spain's oldest covered markets, perfect for fresh seafood and local wine.

Other tips

• Navigate the hills: While Cádiz is flatter than Toledo, comfortable walking shoes are still an absolute must for the ancient cobblestones.

• Sunset strategy: For the most magical sunset, head to La Caleta Beach about an hour before the sun dips into the Atlantic.

• Look for the cannons: Keep an eye out for old iron cannons used as "bollards" on street corners; they were placed there centuries ago to protect buildings from carriage wheels.

• Stay local: Don't just look for restaurants; the small "tabernas" filled with locals offer the most authentic food and atmosphere.

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our Spain page.