Jerez: Horses, Sherry & the Soul of Andalusia

Jerez is often described as underrated, and after spending time there, I can confirm it is a city that deserves much more time in the spotlight. It hadn’t originally been on my personal radar, but it quickly became a highlight of our trip due to its genuine warmth and inviting atmosphere. There is a palpable sense of pride in the air, especially as the city vies to be the European Capital of Culture in 2031, and it’s easy to see why it has such a strong chance.

Gallo Azul (Blue Rooster)

The biggest takeaway from Jerez is undoubtedly the sherry. For those who say they don’t drink it, I am living proof that you just haven’t tried it in Jerez yet. Visiting the historic sherry houses and learning about the intricate solera aging process completely changed my perspective. It isn’t just a drink here; it is a heritage, and the complexity of the flavours—from crisp Finos to deep Olorosos—is a revelation when experienced at the source.

The Mice of González Byass

To truly feel the soul of the city, you have to spend your evenings in the tabancos. These specialised taverns are the beating heart of local social life, where sherry is poured directly from the barrel, and the floorboards vibrate with the sound of impromptu flamenco. Our visit to Tabanco El Pasaje provided that perfect “signature memory”—the combination of world-class wine and raw, emotional music created an atmosphere that felt both intimate and electric.

Iglesia de San Miguel (Church of Saint Michael)

What stays with you the most about Jerez is how approachable it feels. It offers a sophisticated mix of high culture and rustic charm without the overwhelming crowds of its larger neighbours. Whether you are a foodie, a history buff, or just looking for a town that feels “real,” Jerez offers a warm Andalusian embrace that will make you want to stay just a little bit longer.

Flamenco

Manuel María González Ángel

Antiguo Ayuntamiento (Cabildo antiguo)

• Tabanco El Pasaje: A must-visit for the ultimate Jerez experience; here you can enjoy authentic flamenco and sherry served straight from the barrel in a historic setting.

• Sherry Bodega Tours: Explore the cathedral-like cellars of the city’s famous sherry houses to witness the aging process and taste the incredible variety of fortified wines.

• The Mice of González Byass (fun fact): While touring the historic Tío Pepe bodegas, keep an eye out for a tiny glass of sweet sherry and a miniature ladder. This tradition started when a cellar worker noticed mice drinking the sherry; he placed a small glass and ladder out for them so they could enjoy the wine without falling in! It has since become a legendary symbol of the winery’s hospitality.

• Tabanco Plateros: A local favourite for a more relaxed vibe, offering excellent wines and local cheeses.

• Tabanco San Pablo: One of the most traditional spots in town, perfect for a mid-afternoon glass of sherry and a chat with the friendly locals.

• The Alcázar of Jerez: A stunning 11th-century Moorish fortress offering a peaceful glimpse into the city’s ancient Islamic history.

• Embrace the tabanco culture: Jerez is the only place where you find these specific taverns; use them as your primary spots for both snacks and entertainment.

• Sherry is for everyone: Don’t skip the wineries just because you think you don’t like sherry; ask for a tasting flight to discover the wide range of dry and sweet styles.

• Walk the Old Town: The city centre is very manageable on foot, and wandering the streets between the various tabancos is the best way to soak in the local architecture.

• Fun fact: The word “Sherry” is actually an English corruption of the city’s original Moorish name, Xerez.

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our Andalusia page.