An Off-the-Beaten-Path Greek Odyssey

North to Delphi, Meteora & Zagori

On my first visit to Greece many years ago, I was captivated by the images of Meteora and vowed to visit one day. And so we did, in 2022.

Driving from Athens, we first circled to Delphi, the site of the Pythian games, second only to ancient Olympia, and Apollo’s Temple, where the Oracle would issue her prophecies. We trod in the footsteps of Orpheus, Oedipus, and of course, Apollo himself.

Delphi: Temple of Apollo

Meteora is famed for towering rocks, where monks seeking solitude built monasteries in the 14th century—on top of the spires! Meteora comes from a Greek word meaning “suspended in air,” and we were mesmerized by this magical place suspended in time. Six of the 24 monasteries/nunneries are still active—you can drive to some but need to trek to others. We loved hiking all around and enjoyed two spectacular sunsets with the monasteries. (Dine at the Taverna Gardenia for luscious white cheese, fried zucchini, and moussaka.)

Magical Meteora, with four monasteries behind us

From Meteora, we went farther north to Zagori, known for its stone villages, bridges, and mountains. We hiked the pretty 10.5-mile Vikos Gorge and discovered that the best views are near the end—an easy one hour down from Vikos.

Driving back to Athens, we stayed at Nafplion for a few nights, visiting ancient sites: the very cool Mycenae, home of King Agamemnon; the temple of Zeus at Nemea; the theater of Argos; and the remarkably narrow Corinth canal. (Dine at Nafplion’s Pidalio Mezedopoleio for delicious calamari, sea bass, and shrimp with orzo.)

Charming Naxos & Milos

These two are among the 24 inhabited Cyclades islands, with Naxos the largest by far; Milos is number five.

We flew from Athens to Naxos, which quickly became one of our favorite places, with its beauty and beaches, shops and restaurants, a great outdoor movie theater, ancient sites (Sagri Demeter temple), and mountain hikes (we did a fun hike up to Mount Zas at 3,290 feet, the highest point in the Cyclades). Watch for villages, sheep, ancient stone walls, and churches galore as you drive around the island.

Views while driving around Naxos

Before heading back to Chora, dine at Axiotissa for the best mussels ever in the seafood risotto. And in Chora, enjoy Bossa’s delectable brunch menu and views.

Enjoying Naxos and brunch at Bossa

Milos was up next via our first ferry trip. (Important note: Once the ferries arrive, they dock and depart very quickly, so don’t dawdle.)

This is a small, laid-back island with surreal white volcanic formations, pretty villages, and many beaches. It’s an Instagram dream. It’s also where the famed Venus de Milo was unearthed in 1820. (I liked Milos better in reviewing pictures afterward than I did while there.)

Klima village in Milos

Around the back side of Santorini

It’s hard to tear yourself away from that gorgeous caldera view. But do.

We rented a tiny Smart Car (loved it!) and drove south to sleepy Akrotiri, known as the “Greek Pompeii.” The ruins preserved after a volcanic eruption around 1600 BC are at least a thousand years older than anything we’ve seen—around 1,000 years older than the Parthenon and Delphi and 1,400 years older than China’s terracotta warriors. (Don’t miss the red beach below.)

Akrotiri, known as as the "Greek Pompeii," dates back to 1600 BC.

Circling the foot of Santorini, we stopped at Perissa, an enticing black beach where we wished we had brought our bathing suits. Finally, we stopped at Pyrgos, a great old town with windy roads, a million souvenir shops, and a castle ruin with unexpected, fantastic views of the whole island. What a treat.

View of Santorini from Pyrgos

Bonus: sunset in Santorini

When driving on the mainland, expect lots of tolls. Both cash and credit cards are accepted.

When driving on the islands, get the smallest car you can. Just go slowly along narrow winding roads and let the experienced big buses and vans go first. Beware, Google Maps may not be entirely reliable throughout rural villages.

Greece has so much to offer—every visit is a discovery! I’d love to help you find your special part of Greece.

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our Greece page.