Grand Greenland: My 16-Day Journey Through the Arctic with HX Expeditions

We sailed on the MS Fridtjof Nansen from Nuuk in South Greenland, up the West Coast, and all the way to the 78th parallel, before turning back south. Every day brought something remarkable, from ancient ice formations to modern-day community life in one of the most remote places on Earth.

Zodiac cruising among the icebergs in northern Baffin Bay

Our first port after embarkation was Ilulissat, where we spent the day exploring its UNESCO-listed icefjord by land and sea. Massive icebergs calve from the nearby Sermeq Kujalleq Glacier, one of the fastest and most active glaciers in the world. Ice from Sermeq is known to have traveled as far as New York before melting completely.

Ilulissat Icefjord by land

Ilulissat Icefjord from sea

Inside the sleek Danish-designed Ice Center, interactive exhibits tell the history of the Greenland ice sheet, the impact of climate change over time, and the deep connection locals have with it. Afterward, a locally guided fishing boat took us right up to the edge of the towering fjord. No photo will ever match the awe of standing there yourself, but I tried.

North Greenland

The most thrilling day of our journey was our ice landing at the 78th parallel. Stepping onto glacial ice in the high Arctic, surrounded by absolute silence except for the wind and the ice crunching beneath my boots, is a memory I’ll carry forever. The Coolcation Queen had landed!

Ice landing!

Qilakitsoq mummies, National Museum of Greenland

Qeqertarsuaq

Our local guide led us on a walking tour that ended in one of the most heartwarming moments of the trip: meeting his dogs. Greenlandic dogs are more than animals—they’re essential partners in daily life. Traditionally bred for strength and endurance, these sled dogs are vital for winter travel, hunting, and hauling supplies across the ice. Many locals still rely on dog teams to navigate the terrain and preserve a way of life deeply rooted in Inuit tradition.

Local guide introducing us to his Greenlandic pups

The dogs are protected (north of the Arctic Circle) to preserve their genetic lineage and working traits. The breed’s lineage dates back 9,500 years. I feel so honored to have met seven of these pups, who were just 26 days old (and breaking hearts daily).

Onboard

The ship struck the perfect balance of comfort, adventure, and education. I can’t say enough about the HX Expeditions team. They are warm, knowledgeable, and passionate. Always approachable, they are ready with a story, to answer any questions, or to give you a mug of hot chocolate when you come in from an ice landing. We learned so much from the Greenlandic cultural ambassadors and from the expedition team, who led lectures about traditional hunting, winter traditions in Greenland, ice navigation, and the lifecycle of a glacier.

Bonus day in Nuuk

Our original return flight was canceled due to weather, so we had an extra day in Nuuk, the capital of Greenland. I spent the morning at the wonderfully curated and impressive Nuuk Art Museum, where I discovered new (to me) Indigenous artists like Anne-Birthe Hove. This museum is a true gem.

HX didn’t just show me the Arctic—it invited me into living communities, ancient traditions, and the ever-changing beauty of ice and fjords, an experience I will treasure forever.

Qaanaaq community visit

Drum dance at the community center in Qaanaaq

• Be flexible: Even in the summer months, Arctic travel is weather-dependent. High winds, shifting ice, or even a reindeer-hunting day in Nuuk can delay plans.

• Why HX? They’re eco-conscious, community-oriented, and experts at safely delivering travelers into the Arctic’s most remote corners.

• Wildlife sightings aren’t guaranteed, but are very possible. We saw three polar bears, musk ox, Arctic foxes and hares, countless seabirds, and more whales than I could count.

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our cruises page.