Banaue, Sagada & Apo Whang Od

Trip overview

I decided to combine two destinations in this trip. First of all, because the two cities are just a few hours away from each other (around three hours), but mostly because it is a long drive from Manila (from Manila to Banaue around nine hours and from Manila to Sagada around 12 hours).

If you can take five days total, it is really worth combining those two stops in a single trip and saving some travel time.

Hungduan terraces

Banaue

Banaue is well-known for its UNESCO heritage sites that include some of the world-famous rice terraces, formerly housing the Ifugao tribe, who built those terraces centuries ago.

It is a very small town, so do not expect a lot of life around. The destination is principally to retreat, and enjoy the nature and local organic food.

Banaue terraces

One or two nights in Banaue will suffice to visit the highlights of the city, and it is important to organize a local guide ahead of time who will take you around.

Here are the key spots to visit and split over two days as it’s a lot of steps and it is not possible to visit everything in a day.

• Banaue Rice Terraces hiking tour

• Batad Rice Terraces

• Bangaan Rice Terraces

• Tappiyah Falls

• Hapao Rice Terraces

• Banaue Viewpoint for a panoramic view

• Visit Tam-An Village

• Experience the Hanging Bridge

• Trek to Mt. Amuyao

• Relax at Bogyah Hot Spring

Sunrise from our Airbnb terrace in Banaue

Transportation

The local transportation is the tricycle, but it is also possible to arrange a tour with a minivan if you are looking for a more comfortable option.

Accommodation

For your accommodation, I recommend either a hostel or an Airbnb. We opted for the second option and we stayed in a small house 10 minutes outside of town with an amazing view of the greenery.

We went to the local market as soon as we arrived in the city, right out of the bus ride, and we purchased enough food to cook for the next two days.

Sagada

From Banaue, hop on the bus and make your way to Sagada, a few more hours’ drive away but with a scenic ride among the mountains.

Sagada is a bigger city than Banaue, with a lot of history and tradition. There is a lot to see and explore.

Sagada hanging coffins

Important: Tourist registration

Upon arrival in Sagada, it is mandatory to make your way to the tourism office (which is just next to the bus stop) and register yourself.

You will have to pay an environment fee and they will be sharing with you a map of the city, some tips, as well as the contacts of all the local guides to whom you can reach out to organize any tour around the city. (Note that most of the sites are not accessible without a guide).

Accommodation

In terms of accommodation, you will find different types of hostels at a low budget, but there is also a more high-end option named The Shire, where we decided to stay.

It is a small hotel/Airbnb located on the hill of Sagada, just a few minutes from the city center. The structure is a traditional house made of stones, which is currently being extended, offering around a dozen rooms. They have a restaurant on site that provides local food, and the house is surrounded by farms so all the food is fresh and organic. They also have a massage room if you want to splurge after a long day of walking around the city.

Our room was a little chalet with a superb view and a small terrace, unique to wake up to every morning. All the amenities were of a high standard, with a Dyson hair dryer, Delonghi coffee machine among others. The toiletries were of quality as well, and the room was spotless. There was not AC, but at night it gets quite cold so it is not needed. During the day you can make use of the fan.

Sagada sights

For our first day we decided to explore the city. You can simply walk into any of the local tour guide offices and they will have a guide there ready to assist you. Some of the visits are by foot, others require a tricycle ride to reach the entry point.

Sagada sunset from a viewpoint

Here is a list of the top sites to visit.

• Echo Valley & Hanging Coffins (this is really a must—a cemetery with coffins hanging from the side of a rock)

• St. Mary's Episcopal Church

• Sumaguing, Lumiang and Balangagan Caves (those caves are not just a geological marvel—it holds deep cultural significance as it serve as an ancient burial site for the Igorot people)

• Sagada Pottery village for a local experience and a souvenir to take home

• Mount Ampacao hike

• Kiltepan Road, famous for its stunning sunrise and "sea of clouds"

• Sagada Underground River

• Pongas Falls

Depending on the time you want to spend exploring, we can easily tailor-make an itinerary with your selection based on the number of days you have.

Food & drink

Any trip must include some delicious food recommendations, so here are a few.

• Sagada Cellar Door: Perfect craft beer enthusiasts. It’s a local pub, located in the forest and surrounded by pine trees with a fire pit lit up every evening where people gather around. Cool spot.

• Gaia Café: Treehouse-inspired spot that offers stunning views of Ambassing Valley. Their menu is vegan and everything they serve is homemade. Located on the way to Sumaguing Cave.

• Sagada Strawberry Café: The best breakfasts in Sagada with delicious strawberry yogurt. It offers outdoor seating where you will find yourself surrounded by their own strawberry plants.

• Rock Inn and Café: It prides itself on serving pinikpikan, a local delicacy. While not within the town proper, it’s worth the visit for its scenic location along the main highway.

• Misty Lodge and Café: Offers quality pizzas, burgers, steaks, breakfast meals, and yoghurt.

• Sagada Lemon Pie House: This place to go for the famous Sagada Lemon pie, and you won’t be disappointed.

• Yogurt House: Contrary to its name, they do not just serve yogurt but a wide range of local dishes. The baked chicken was amazing and the portions are super generous.

Must-try food

• Pinikpikan, a traditional Cordilleran chicken dish with a unique preparation method that infuses a deep, smoky flavor.

• Lemon pie, which is unique to Sagada.

• Homemade yogurt. If you love yogurt like I do, this is your dream city because almost every restaurant makes its own homemade yogurt and it’s delicious.

• Coffee, to buy from the local market.

Sagada lemon pie

Day trip ideas

For our second day, we decided to make our way out of town for a very special experience.

For the early risers, I suggest starting with an early morning hike on Marlboro Hill where you will witness the sunrise among the clouds. It is unique and really worth it.

Then, time to head to Buscalan village, the home of the famous Apo Whang Od. You will need to arrange a local driver with a car (4x4 or pickup truck) because the road is sinuous and can be dangerous if you are not a local and used to it. The drive from Sagada to the village takes around two hours and you will then need to do a 30-minute hike to reach the small village located on the mountain.

There is a local guide who guides you through it. It is mandatory before starting the hike. They are there all day long and there is no heads-up required, just show up when you are ready to go and someone will be there to assist. All the prices are mentioned on the wall, and apply to all, so do not be concerned about being ripped off if you are a foreigner.

Apo Whang Od

Apo Whang Od tattoo artist

Whang-Od is now 108 years old and she is the world’s oldest tattoo artist. She has been practicing “batok,” a traditional form of tattooing used by the region’s indigenous tribes, since she was just a teenager and until today. She is using indigenous hand-tapping techniques passed down through generations, and be ready for it because it is painful. As of now, she only performs her signature tattoo, the “3 dots”, but if you want another tattoo, it is possible and will be done by some other tribe members. However, note that due to her age, she is not always there. So if it’s your lucky day, she will be there. If not, one of her granddaughters or nieces.

I was very lucky to witness her perform tattoos on that day, and it was a very memorable experience. I queued for around one hour, waited for my turn, and she gently asked me where I wanted my three dots before performing her art. It took no more than 10 minutes, and she kindly let me take a picture with her. As you can imagine, she does not speak English, but her smile says it all.

After living in the Philippines for more than seven years, it was a dream of mine to make my way to Apo Whang Od, and it will be a memory I will cherish forever.

All Saints Day

Bumped by our tattoo, we made our way back to town to witness another very unique experience, the celebration of All Saints Day (November 1st in Sagada) at the city cemetery. We were told by the locals that the way they celebrate in Sagada is very unique and it is worth visiting to witness it. And they were right.

We made our way to the cemetery to witness the giant bonfire where all the locals light up individual bonfires in front of each grave to celebrate the memories of all the dead. The whole experience was breathtaking and it felt very special to be part of such a uniqueundefinedtradition.

Bangaan terraces

• Bus tickets from Manila can easily be booked online a long time ahead, so I recommend doing so to ensure you have a spot on the day you need it.

• It is required to withdraw cash prior to your trip because ATMs are very rare and all transactions are made in cash in both cities.

• Prepare some warm clothes as it can be cold and chilly at night, or even during the day if it rains.

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