Paris, According to a Food-Obsessed Travel Agent Who’s Been 4 Times

I’ve been to Paris four times now, which means I’ve officially moved past the “stand in line for everything and eat at whatever café is closest” phase and into the much better era of knowing where the actually good croissants, martinis, and secret gardens live. I’m a travel agent now (wasn’t on my first trip), but I’ve always been a certified foodie—not a real certification, I just gave it to myself because I really, really like to eat.

My first Paris trip in 2023 was cute but chaotic. I stayed at Hôtel de JoBo (funky, tiny rooms, great location), went to Le Lapin Agile, ate at Pierre Sang, had lunch at Parcelles (still obsessed), and thought La Maison Rose was the moment before it became very Instagram-famous. I also had an incredible Seine picnic and the best French onion soup of my life at Les Philosophes—but overall, I was still in my “tourist Paris” era. Since then, I’ve gotten much better at this.

On my most recent trip, I stayed at the Hoxton Paris and immediately fell in love with the vibe—cool but not try-hard, with a bar that is the kind of place you actually want to hang out in with a martini before dinner. I also toured Hôtel Madame Rêve and was obsessed. It’s modern, chic, has a beautiful rooftop and bar, and sits right near the Louvre—it feels very fashion-girl Paris. When I book clients, the most-loved hotels are Relais Christine (romantic, tucked away, with a hidden garden in Saint-Germain) and Pavillon de la Reine on Place des Vosges, which feels elegant and historic and somehow still calm in the middle of the Marais—plus it has a real spa, which is rare in Paris.

Paris itself isn’t huge, but it’s spread out, so I always plan days by neighborhood. Your first day should be classic Paris: start early at the Louvre (Mona Lisa, yes, but the Napoleon Apartments are the real showstopper), grab a latte at Café Kitsuné, walk through the Tuileries, stroll the Champs-Élysées, go to the top of the Arc de Triomphe, and end at the Eiffel Tower—ideally with a picnic under it or hot chocolate at Carette if it’s cold.

But if there’s one neighborhood that really has my heart, it’s Le Marais. This is where I could spend an entire day doing nothing but wandering. You start at Place des Vosges, which feels like something out of a movie, then just let yourself get lost on Rue Vieille du Temple and Rue de Turenne—two streets that are basically a masterclass in Parisian shopping and people-watching. You’ll find Diptyque, Merci, little independent boutiques, vintage shops like Bobby and KIS (Keep It Secret), cool-girl stores like Chez Snow Bunny, and places like Officine Universelle Buly where you’ll suddenly convince yourself you need custom perfume and a monogrammed comb.

And then there’s the food in the Marais, which is quietly some of the best in the city. Les Philosophes does the French onion soup I still think about. Breizh Café is my go-to for buckwheat galettes and crêpes. Dumbo is where I go when I need a smash burger moment. Frenchie Bar à Vins is always a yes—no reservations, always great. And Bisou is one of my favorite bars in Paris because they don’t have a menu; you just tell them what you’re in the mood for and they make you something perfect. White Coffee and Sevenly Heart are where I’ll stop for coffee or a glass of wine when I need a break from shopping.

Nearby, the Marché des Enfants Rouges is also non-negotiable. Les Enfants du Marché is inside and serves the best tuna dish of my life—truly one of those “wait, Paris does this too?” moments—and Caractère de Cochon right there makes ridiculous sandwiches that are perfect for a picnic.

My favorite meal in the entire city is La Bourse et La Vie—small, cozy, perfect steak frites and beef tartare, especially for lunch, which is when Paris restaurants quietly go all out. I also love Le Café des Musées, which has incredible beef bourguignon and feels like a place locals actually go.

La Bourse et La Vie

For more old-school bistro energy, I love La Poule au Pot for a classic lunch, and Le Bon Georges for wine and big Parisian vibes (I think it’s better for lunch than dinner). And for when you want to feel like you’re in a 1960s Paris movie, Le Renommée is everything—martinis, bone marrow, steak, low lighting, and that old-world feeling that makes you stay for “just one more.”

For pastries, I’m loyal to Mamiche, La Maison d’Isabelle, and Aux Merveilleux de Fred (those marshmallows and squishy chocolate bread are insane), and Du Pain et des Idées is high on my must-try list for those famous escargot pastries.

Mamiche Bakery—so good!