On the Trail of Sisi in Vienna

Vienna’s connection to Empress Elisabeth—Sisi—is both mythic and deeply human. Her image graces snow globes and chocolate tins, yet beneath the romantic legend lies a far more complex story. If you give her more than a passing glance, Vienna becomes the perfect canvas to understand a woman who longed for freedom while bound by a golden cage. We spent two days following her trail through the city’s imperial and emotional landmarks—and it left a deeper impression than I expected.

We began at the Sisi Museum in the Hofburg Palace, where the myth gives way to the woman. The museum’s rooms are filled with personal effects—her parasols, gloves, mourning dresses, even her exercise equipment—offering an intimate portrait of a fiercely private soul. Her obsession with beauty and her resistance to court life come through in every room. We followed this with a visit to the Imperial Apartments, where she once lived with Franz Joseph.

Hofburg Palace

On the second day, we headed out to Schönbrunn Palace, the summer residence where Sisi spent time during her early marriage. The rooms here feel grander and more ceremonial, but you can sense her distance from it all in the carefully preserved spaces.

Schönbrunn Palace

Nearby, the Imperial Carriage Museum (Wagenburg) offered something unexpectedly powerful—the black mourning carriage that carried her body after her assassination in Geneva. Alongside it: her coronation robes and riding gear, which told stories of both her public image and personal escape.

Besides Sisi and Franz, there is more incredible history in the Schönbrunn Palace. At just six years old, Mozart performed for Empress Maria Theresa in 1762 during one of his family’s first concert tours. The performance took place in the Mirror Room (Spiegelsaal), a richly decorated Rococo chamber still on view today as part of the palace tour. Legend has it that after his performance, little Wolfgang leapt into the empress’s lap and gave her a spontaneous kiss—charming everyone in the court. This moment helped cement his reputation as a child prodigy and marked the beginning of his rise to fame.

Before you travel, consider learning more about Sisi from currently available video series and movies:

• The Empress (Netflix, 2022): A bold and visually rich German-language series that explores her early marriage, political challenges, and fiery spirit. It’s darker and more feminist in tone than previous portrayals.

• Sisi (RTL+, 2021): A six-part German-Austrian miniseries dramatizing her marriage and personal struggles, with strong period details and romantic flair. This six-part series is available on PBS in the US, under the title Sisi: Austrian Empress, as part of their Walter Presents collection.

• Corsage (2022, film by Marie Kreutzer): An art-house retelling of Sisi’s later years, with actress Vicky Krieps giving a stunning, unconventional performance. Focuses on her identity crisis and quiet rebellion in middle age. Available on Hulu by subscription or for rent or purchase on Fandango at Home or Apple TV.

Skipping the lines

The “Sisi Ticket” (official combo ticket):

• This is the best-value, semi-skip-the-line option.

• Includes:

  • Schönbrunn Palace (Grand Tour with audio guide)

  • Sisi Museum & Imperial Apartments in the Hofburg

  • Imperial Furniture Collection (optional add-on)

• Benefits:

  • Fast-track admission at Schönbrunn

  • No timed entry for Hofburg—walk in at your convenience

  • Valid for 30 days from first use

  • Available via official website

Schönbrunn Palace (Grand Tour or Classic Pass)

• Skip-the-line entry is available if you book timed tickets online

• Guided tours or audio guide tours are available with timed admission

• During high season (May–Oct), buy in advance to avoid long entry queues

Sisi Museum & Hofburg Imperial Apartments

• Entry lines are usually shorter than Schönbrunn, but it can still be crowded midday

• Booking online lets you skip the ticket counter, but there's no timed entry line—just shorter entry logistics

• Included in Sisi Ticket or Vienna Pass

Insider tip: If you’re visiting both Hofburg and Schönbrunn in one or two days, getting the Sisi Ticket plus a timed Schönbrunn slot will lead to the smoothest experience with the fewest lines.

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our Vienna page.