Wilderness & Wonder: 5 Days in Banff & Canmore, Canada

Banff National Park is where we spent most of our time on this trip. Banff is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and offers many opportunities for your outdoor adventures!

Banff Gondola & Sulphur Mountain

Spend an entire day on beautiful Sulphur Mountain. The Banff Gondola offers many options for adventurers. The ride up to the peak takes eight to 10 minutes, offering incredible views of the mountains, nearby lakes, and wildlife. The gondola is accessible to people with limited mobility and can accommodate a wheelchair to the top. For the more adventurous, you can hike up Sulphur Mountain. There are two that we recommend.

• Main Trail: This hike is an out-and-back, clearly marked trail of about 3.5 miles. There are many switchbacks and dense forests. Don’t forget the bear spray!

• Westside Trail: This is a longer hike with more elevation gain but fewer crowds. It may require some scrambling on loose areas of the trail. I preferred this hike, as we didn’t see another person until we reached the peak.

Once you reach the gondola base, the adventures continue! Grab a treat at Starbucks, then head out to the 360-degree rooftop observation deck. It was very windy when we were there, which made the experience a little more exhilarating! The views are incredible. There are additional trails that lead away from the summit. Some are audio-guided. We tried Sanson’s Peak, following in the steps of Norman Sanson, who walked to the peak every day for 30 years to check the weather (until he was 84!). At the peak, see the Cosmic Ray Station, which is a National Historic Site.

Take a little break at one of the three restaurants on site. We stopped for a glass of wine at the Sky Bistro, which offers incredible views and excellent service.

Other activities include the Interpretive Centre, the Above Banff Theatre, and the gift shop.

Johnston Canyon

My favorite day was spent at Johnston Canyon. I am a waterfall junkie, and there are falls throughout the entire hike. Make sure you bring plenty of water and snacks for your hike. We had heard that it could get very busy, but we decided to go anyway. I suggest getting there early in the morning to avoid the 10 am rush. There are two primary hikes. The hike to the lower falls is a short 1/2-mile hike (one way) with little elevation gain. Several observation decks provide beautiful photo opportunities.

The hike to the upper falls is about another mile. It is worth the trip. You will see six more waterfalls on the hike up. There are two observation points, and I recommend going to both. Be prepared to feel the spray from the roaring cascade!

If you are feeling adventurous (which we were), head to the Ink Pots at the top of the mountain. It is another two miles up and is considered a moderate to strenuous hike. The Ink Pots are seven different mineral springs located in a meadow above the upper falls. Each pool has a slightly different color due to the different minerals. You can also see the bubbles coming up from the spring inside each pool. This was my favorite part of the hike. I haven’t ever seen anything like these pools. We spent about seven hours exploring this beautiful canyon.

Lake Louise

A beautiful glacier-fed lake beside a stately château. The walk around the lake is very easy and provides benches to sit and enjoy the view. We took a picnic and found a very pretty place right on the water to sit and enjoy the afternoon. After lunch, we rented a canoe. The lake is not very big, but when you get to the middle, the views are incredible. We had read that in the winter the lake becomes an ice skating rink. We would like to come back to see that. You can also hike to Lake Agnes Tea House, which has an interesting history: It was built by the Canadian Pacific Railway as a refuge for hikers and has been serving loose leaf tea there since 1905. I tried the 100 monkeys tea, which was perfect for a chilly day—and also wards off evil spirits!

Moraine Lake

Another beautiful lake about nine miles from Lake Louise. This lake was completely created by nature and has never been dammed, drained, or altered by humans. It is the most incredible shade of azure blue. I have never seen anything like it. The only trail open while we were there was the Rockpile Trail, which is a very short walk; however, we found out that the view from the top of the rock pile is one of the most-photographed locations in all of Canada. Worth it!

Main Street, Canmore

Based on a recommendation from a friend who lives in Canada, we stayed in Canmore instead of Banff. Canmore offers a darling downtown with great restaurants for the foodies, lots of mountain shops, gift stores, museums, and art galleries. It is very walkable, safe at night, and still has wonderful views of the mountains.

Drunken Lobster Oyster Bar (Canmore)

We LOVED this little restaurant and ate here twice. You must try the oysters, seafood chowder, fish and chips, and lobster roll. My husband loved the grapefruit beer on tap, and I liked the wine options. The owner sat and visited with us for a while and suggested a few other places to try.

Rocky Mountain Flatbread Co (Canmore)

We stumbled upon this place while walking downtown. Great wine and cocktail list, food is farm-to-table, and the interior is warm and inviting. Try the fig and brie with prosciutto flatbread. So good!

Iron Goat (Canmore)

A little bit outside of Canmore’s Main Street, Iron Goat had a very pretty outdoor seating area with views. The wine and cocktail list was impressive, and the menu was robust. We loved the duck wings and the wild game burger. Perfect after a long day hiking!

Graze Food & Drink (Canmore)

They serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner, but this was our go-to breakfast location. We loved the avocado toast, brisket, and mushroom bennie—and, most importantly, they have fantastic coffee. It’s a great place to start the day.