A Week in Provence: On the Trail of Peter Mayle, Wine and Brocante

Travel to Avignon, a city steeped in history and designated a UNESCO World Heritage site, which sits gracefully along the Rhône River, surrounded by its iconic medieval walls. In the 14th century, it served as the heart of the Catholic Church. Getting there is a breeze — high-speed TGV trains run hourly from Paris Gare de Lyon (about 3 hours and 15 minutes), or you can hop on a direct train from Charles de Gaulle Airport (around 3 hours from the TGV station at CDG).

Avignon makes an ideal base for exploring Provence — not just for its history and central location, but also for its vibrant shopping and dining scene. Within the city’s medieval walls, you’ll find a mix of charming boutiques, local markets and stylish concept stores offering everything from Provençal textiles and handmade soaps to contemporary fashion and antiques. The food scene is just as appealing, with everything from cozy bistros and riverside cafés to Michelin-starred restaurants and lively wine bars.

Towering over the skyline of the old city, the Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes) is the largest Gothic palace in the world — and a striking reminder of the 14th century, when Avignon was the seat of the papacy. Today, visitors can explore 25 rooms, including the private papal apartments, stunning frescoes and grand halls. The self-guided tour, enhanced with immersive audio, takes about two hours and offers a deep dive into the palace’s dramatic history and architecture.

Just nearby is the famous Pont d’Avignon, made legendary by the classic French children’s song Sur le Pont d’Avignon, which imagines people dancing on the bridge. Officially known as the Pont Saint-Bénézet, this iconic 12th-century structure was inspired — according to legend — by a young shepherd who said he was divinely called to build a bridge across the Rhône. Originally stretching across 22 arches, only four remain today, along with a small chapel perched on the bridge itself. Repeatedly damaged by floods and eventually abandoned in the 17th century, it still stands as a UNESCO World Heritage site — and a must-see when visiting Avignon.

Drive to Isle Sur la Sorgue, a charming Provencal town 25km southeast of Avignon.

The numerous canals and branches of the Sorgue have given the town the nickname of the Venice of the Comtat. L'Isle sur la Sorgue is the chosen home of many antique and second-hand goods dealers. Each weekend, the market counts about 300 stalls, and more than 500 during the antique fairs at Easter and August 15, attracting an international clientele.

The best days to visit the antiques market in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue are:

• Sundays: The largest and most renowned market with a vibrant mix of antiques and brocante (vintage/second-hand) items, alongside a traditional Provençal food and produce market. Dealers set up stalls throughout the town, especially along the canals and in the historic center.

• Saturdays: A more laid-back version of Sunday’s market, with fewer dealers and crowds, perfect for browsing without the rush, though not all shops and stalls will be open.

• Year-round antique shops and galleries: L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is home to over 300 antique dealers, many clustered in small “villages” along the river and main street. Most permanent dealers are open from Friday through Monday.

Pro tip: Arrive before 9:30 am to beat the crowds, especially on Sundays. Park in one of the lots just outside the center (e.g., Parking de la Gare or Parking des Névons) — they’re an easy walk into town.

Peter Mayle's "A Good Year" is a charming, light-hearted novel about Max Skinner, a London investment banker who inherits a vineyard in the south of France from his late uncle. The story was later adapted into a film starring Russell Crowe, which has since become one of our all-time favorites. On a recent trip to the region, we focused on exploring and enjoying the locations featured in the film. Here's a driving itinerary starting and ending in Avignon:

Stop 1: Château de la Canorgue (Luberon)

• Drive Time: 45 minutes from Avignon

• Details: This vineyard, where Max Skinner inherits in A Good Year, is set in the stunning Luberon hills. Take some time to explore the vineyard and soak in the beautiful views. If available, you can join a wine-tasting tour (be sure to check in advance).

• Location: Near the village of Bonnieux in the Luberon region.

Stop 2: Cucuron

• Drive Time: 10 minutes from Château de la Canorgue

• Details: Cucuron is the charming village where Max and Fanny get caught in a thunderstorm while watching a film by the town's picturesque pond. Stroll around the village, relax by the water and enjoy lunch at one of the many restaurants around the pond.

Stop 3: Lourmarin

• Drive Time: 15 minutes from Cucuron

• Details: Lourmarin, another stunning village featured in the film, offers charming streets, a Renaissance castle and several cafés and shops. It’s a perfect spot for lunch or coffee.

• Activities: Visit the Lourmarin Castle, wander the village and enjoy the beautiful views of the surrounding countryside.

Stop 4: Gordes

• Drive Time: 30 minutes from Lourmarin

• Details: Gordes is one of the most iconic hilltop villages in Provence, known for its breathtaking views. Featured in the film, especially in aerial shots, Gordes is perfect for photography and exploring its narrow, winding streets.

• Activities: Wander through the village, visit Sénanque Abbey (famous for its lavender fields) and enjoy panoramic views of the Luberon.

Return to Avignon

• Drive time: 1 hour from Gordes{

This itinerary gives you a chance to visit the most memorable spots from A Good Year, while experiencing the beauty of Provence firsthand.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a must-visit destination for wine lovers just 30 minutes by car from Avignon. Its rich history, stunning vineyards and world-class wines make it an unforgettable stop on your Provence journey. Whether you're an experienced connoisseur or a casual enthusiast, a day spent exploring the vineyards and tasting the region’s wines is sure to be a highlight.

One of France’s most renowned wine regions, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is famous for producing some of the finest red wines, primarily from the Grenache grape, along with Syrah, Mourvèdre and other varietals. These wines are full-bodied, rich and complex, making them highly sought after. The village’s name, "New Castle of the Pope," reflects its historical ties to the papacy, adding a fascinating layer of history to your visit.

Pro tip: While it’s possible to simply drive around and visit vineyards, it’s highly recommended to make reservations in advance to ensure availability. We can also arrange local guides or create customized itineraries for your wine tasting experience.