Barcelona: Where Food, Wine & Travel Converge

A return visit with a different pace

This trip was a little different. On our last visit, we checked off some of the city’s must-sees: La Sagrada Família, the Picasso Museum, the Gothic Quarter, Mercat de la Boqueria, Bar Cañete, and even ABaC, a three-Michelin-star restaurant. That trip was short—just three nights—but we made the most of it.

This time, we slowed down and revisited the city with more ease, discovering new corners and returning to some old favorites.

On the list:

Mercat de Santa Caterina

This market was right next door to our hotel (The Edition) and not nearly as crowded as the famed Mercat de Boqueria, 10 minutes away. Named after the convent it replaced, Santa Caterina was the first covered market in Barcelona, opened in 1848 and redesigned in 2005 by architects Enric Miralles and Benedetta Tagliabue, recognizable by its colorful mosaic roof. We wandered through stalls brimming with fresh produce, fish, and meats, and later returned for a simple, delicious snack: a Spanish omelet, tuna sandwich, and a couple of cervezas.

Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar

A jewel of Catalan Gothic architecture, the Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar was completed in 1384, and has withstood earthquakes, fires, and war. Its vast, open interior, with soaring columns and stunning stained glass, feels both majestic and serene. Don’t miss the rooftop terrace for panoramic views of the city and sea.

Mercat del Born

Once the largest covered market in Europe, built in 1876, the Mercat del Born closed a century later. During renovations, medieval ruins from 1714 were unearthed beneath the structure, halting plans for a library. Today, it serves as a cultural center and archaeological site, offering free admission to explore the preserved remains of the old neighborhood buried below.

Montserrat

About an hour from Barcelona, Montserrat Monastery celebrates over 1,000 years of Catholic history. The Benedictine Abbey is home to La Moreneta, the Black Madonna, the patron saint of Catalonia, said to have appeared in a nearby cave. Pilgrims and visitors alike touch the golden sphere she holds, asking for blessings and intercession.

The Montserrat Museum was a surprise, with works by Dalí, Picasso, Monet, Caravaggio, and local Catalan artists. Outside, small market stalls sell local cheeses, honey, and nuts—we sampled the creamy mató, a local “cottage cheese” topped with honey, a Catalan specialty. Needless to say, Good Culture has some competition!

Oller del Mas

After Montserrat, we toured Oller del Mas, an organic, family-run winery dating back 36 generations—a legacy of nearly a thousand years. The estate features a castle, boutique accommodations, restaurants, and even a golf course and pool. The wines—crafted from indigenous Catalan grapes—are elegant and expressive, a true taste of the region’s heritage.

Cathedral de Barcelona

Construction of the Cathedral of Barcelona began in 1298 and continued into the 15th century, though the neo-Gothic façade wasn’t completed until 1913. The interior reveals layers of history—Romanesque, Gothic, and modern restoration. Highlights include the crypt of Saint Eulàlia, the 13 geese in the cloister (symbolizing her age at martyrdom), and rooftop views overlooking the Gothic Quarter.

Tip: Book an early timed entry to beat the crowds, and consider a combined ticket with the Museu d’Història de Barcelona (MUHBA) to see the Roman ruins beneath the cathedral.

Sitges

A coastal gem just 40 minutes south of Barcelona, Sitges is the perfect seaside escape. With elegant villas, lively festivals, and a long promenade lined with restaurants, spend a few days getting lost in the old town’s narrow streets, perusing the beautiful stores, enjoy paella by the sea, or simply relax on the beach. This well-known, inclusive town is safe and has a little something for everyone: a lively night scene or a chill vibe by the beach.

Casa Batlló

With a few free hours before hotel check-in, we lucked out with same-day tickets to Casa Batlló, Gaudí’s colorful masterpiece on Passeig de Gràcia (Barcelona’s high-end shopping boulevard).

The self-guided audio tour brings to life the organic design, light-filled atriums, and flowing woodwork that make this UNESCO Site, and former private home, unforgettable. Enjoy a glass of cava on the terrace or the rooftop—marked by Gaudí’s signature four-armed cross—while taking in stunning views of the city.

Restaurants & bars: Where creativity and craft collide

Barcelona’s food scene has always been a feast for the senses, but its cocktail culture now rivals its culinary reputation. From experimental mixology labs to traditional tapas bars, this city blends craft, heritage, and innovation in every sip and bite. During our visit, we explored several world-class spots—some among The World’s 50 Best Bars—each offering its own distinctive personality.

Dos Pebrots

Led by Albert Raurich, a former El Bulli chef, Dos Pebrots (El Raval) celebrates the ancient roots of Mediterranean cuisine with a bold, modern twist. We sat at the kitchen bar—highly recommended—for a front-row seat to watch the action in the charcoal Jasper grill, where fish, steak, and vegetables are cooked to add a rustic note of flavor.

We began with the fig “doughnuts”—a playful nod to the sweet-savory combinations the restaurant is known for—and the mushroom rice made with seasonal chanterelles and oysters was comforting yet refined. We finished with a Txogitxu steak and shared it with other guests at the kitchen bar, who we all got to know throughout the dinner. A tasting menu is offered with pairings, or order a la carte. The wine list is exceptional, featuring small producers from Catalunya and beyond.

Jacqueline

Touted as one of Barcelona’s most Instagrammable restaurants, Jacqueline (Eixample) offers a cosmopolitan dining experience in a chic, multi-room setting. The menu fuses Mediterranean flair with global inspiration—think ceviche, pork belly bao, paccheri all’amatriciana, and miso black cod.

While our reservation at the sushi bar was canceled (the chef had injured himself), the team still managed to deliver a flavorful meal. The cocktails were balanced, the wine list impressive, though the experience felt slightly impersonal given the restaurant’s high-energy vibe. Ideal for a stylish night out with a lively crowd.

Arcano

Tucked away in the El Born district, Arcano occupies a stunning 17th-century stone building with vaulted ceilings and soft candlelight—a setting that immediately feels special. The food is Mediterranean with modern touches and a clear respect for local ingredients.

We started with smoked sardines over tomato bread, followed by seared tuna with sesame, snow peas, and baby bok choy, and finally the local skirt steak with chimichurri and crisp frites. The bartender was a standout, guiding us through a tasting of amaros before crafting Don’s Black Manhattan and my citrusy twist on a cosmo. Our wines—a Penedès white and a Rioja red—were perfectly paired, and we ended the night with an inventive espresso martini with spiced orange notes and Don’s mango-rosemary foam cocktail. It was one of the most memorable evenings of our trip.

Bar Milagros

In a quiet neighborhood just a short walk from Passeig de Gràcia, Bar Milagros specializes in Catalan and Basque flavors served with flair. The tableside steak tartare—customized on a 1–10 spice scale—is a must-try. The restaurant blends authenticity and hospitality effortlessly, making it a lovely spot for a leisurely lunch before strolling back through the city’s elegant shopping avenues.

Bar Cañete

A Barcelona institution near La Rambla, Bar Cañete is vibrant, loud, and unapologetically fun. Its tongue-in-cheek slogan—“F*&$ your diet”—sets the tone. Expect classic Catalan tapas, lively service, and a mix of locals and travelers shoulder to shoulder at the counter.

If you don’t have a reservation, arrive around 12:30 pm, put your name in, and grab a beer across the alley while you wait. Closed Sundays, open Mondays.

Cal Pep

A beloved local legend, Cal Pep draws long lines for its seafood tapas and spontaneous, bustling atmosphere. There are no reservations, so patience is part of the experience—but it’s worth every minute. Closed Sundays.

Especiarium Bar

Located on Carrer de la Princesa in El Born, Especiarium brings spice and botanicals to the forefront of cocktail making. The décor is whimsical yet elegant, and the drinks are sensory experiments—each featuring distinctive herbal or aromatic profiles. It’s easy to pop in before dinner for a pre-meal adventure in flavor. A cute, branded tuk tuk sits out front, indicating the location.

Dr. Stravinsky

Just a few blocks away sits Dr. Stravinsky, ranked among the World’s 100 Best Bars. Equal parts cocktail laboratory and apothecary, it’s known for house-distilled spirits, fermentations, and fat-washing techniques that create truly unexpected profiles—think goat cheese gin or butter-infused rum.

Each drink is a small story in itself, guided by the bartender’s intuitive approach to your flavor preferences. It’s creative mixology at its best—playful and uniquely Barcelona.

Dr. Stravinsky’s Perfumerie

A newer, members-only concept from the same team, Perfumerie explores the aromas of cocktails in an atmosphere inspired by vintage perfumeries. Guests select their drink from a catalog-style menu, then choose a signature scent to be spritzed upon serving. The effect is theatrical, sensory, and deeply immersive—a must for cocktail enthusiasts seeking something truly avant-garde.

Paradiso

Hidden behind a pastrami shop façade in El Born, Paradiso has been repeatedly ranked among The World’s 50 Best Bars. The entrance gives way to a speakeasy-style interior filled with wood, curves, and mystery. The cocktail menu is inventive and sustainable, with each creation telling a story.

No reservations are needed—join the virtual queue via the website or go early when doors open to secure a spot. They also host cocktail-making classes, ideal for those who want to bring a bit of Barcelona’s creativity home.

Rooftop Retreats

• The Monument Hotel Rooftop: A serene escape above the bustle of Passeig de Gràcia, perfect for an elegant lunch or late-afternoon cocktail. The salad here was among the best we’ve had—fresh, balanced, and beautifully plated.

• The Edition Rooftop: Chic and panoramic, with views stretching from the sea to the city skyline. Grab a sunset cocktail, then head downstairs to the Punch Room, the hotel’s speakeasy-inspired lounge, known for signature punch bowls made with local ingredients.