London for WWII Enthusiasts (& Golf!)

Start at the Churchill War Rooms. I recommend you buy tickets in advance from the Imperial War Museums’ official site. We took the first available time at 10 am—for two it was £70. This gives you plenty of time to tour the surprisingly large complex, read the material included with all the pictures, and listen to the audio tour, which is part of your ticket purchase. Emerging back into the sun will leave you with a lasting impression that the war rooms were lived in for five years! If you ask the staff, they can point out the mortar damage to the surrounding building that is still there.

From here, we wanted to have lunch at a pub that had historic relevance to Churchill and the current government’s on-goings, The Red Lion fit the bill. Located along the Thames at 48 Parliament Street, between 10 Downing Street and Parliament, this pub has a wonderful history, starting in 1434 as Hopping Hall. Have a traditional steak and ale pie and a pint, all reasonably priced, our bill for two £65. We booked reservations in advance on the website, as there was a line of people when we arrived, so I’m glad we did.

End the day with a leisurely walk along the Thames to Westminster Abby, buy tickets in advance on the official website for two £60—the audio tour is included in the ticket price. The late afternoon sun was the perfect time to sit and take in the light and architecture. More WWII history, in the Henry VII Lady Chapel, there is a hole in the stonework that has been preserved and covered with glass as a permanent reminder of the air raids and bombings. Afterwards, we walked along the Westminster Bridge to take in Big Ben.

For dinner, we ate in the Chelsea neighborhood’s East Indian restaurant, Bombay Brasserie. I made reservations on the website in advance. A bit higher-end with beautiful and elegant decor, we enjoyed a wonderful 3-course meal, wine, and dessert for two for £260.

Start the day with a visit to the Maritime Museum—this will likely be a tube and bus ride as it is located south of the Thames in Greenwich. Purchase tickets in advance on the Royal Museums Greenwich website—admission is free, but you must book a time. We went at the first available time at 10 am. While we enjoyed this museum, it was underwhelming and dated when compared to the extraordinary accomplishments of the Royal Fleet and Admiral Nelson. The British have a long history of ruling the sea. Down on the dock, not at the museum itself, you can see and tour the Cutty Sark. From the museum, if you fancy a walk, you can walk up the hill to the Royal Observatory Greenwich and take in a beautiful view of London.

From here, we actually went back to our room, changed, and went to the Savoy for High Tea! When the Blitz began, the Savoy Hotel converted its underground Abraham Lincoln Room and Turkish Baths into air-raid shelters—200 beds in curtained bays, air conditioning, and soundproofing! I booked reservations in advance on the website for two people at noon, the earliest seating available—it was £200 and well worth it. The Gallery, which is the dining room for high tea, is grand and beautiful. Savory and sweet snacks are served until you cannot eat any more, along with the perfect side of your choice of tea. Main entrees and other drinks are available as well.

As this was a Sunday, I had always wanted to hear a choir sing in St. Paul’s Cathedral, which is within walking distance of The Savoy. The evening song and sermon begin at 3 pm on Sundays. No tickets or reservations needed, but we arrived a little early, and there was a line. There are no photos inside. The resonants of sounds, the hush of all those present, and the angelic imagery are something to witness at least once. There is a myth that St. Paul’s miraculously was not hit by any bombs during the raids, mostly due to the iconic 1940’s picture of the dome standing defiantly out of black smoke, but it was heavily damaged.

Oxford, in addition to its incredible history and stunning architecture, it is also a modern campus. The train ride is easy, taking about an hour on the express train. Tickets can be booked through Rail Europe and depart from Paddington Station—a round trip for two costs $140 (USD). While I selected our seats, the trains generally have open seating, as long as the light above the seat shows green, indicating it’s available. We ended up sitting in the seats I chose, but we probably stood out as tourists! We grabbed breakfast this morning at Paddington at a Pret-a-Manger, which is everywhere, like Starbucks in the US. While not a unique meal, they have hot and cold options which work in a pinch.

We are active travelers, so we walked into the city. Oxford retains a historic and medieval feel and is much smaller than Cambridge. It was a 15–20 minute walk to Christ Church Cathedral. I booked our tour on their website at £44 for both of us—it includes the audio tour. Getting tickets was tricky—they release tickets every Friday for the week ahead, so you have to get your timing right. The campus is impressive and beautiful, and blends into the surrounding neighborhood, which is wonderful to meander around.

If you haven’t been punting, it was a great way to take in some of the surrounding area and a change-up from walking. At Oxford Putting, we chartered a small vessel, and for £35 an hour, we punted a one-hour loop on the River Cherwell, which connects to the Thames much further down. Afterwards, we walked across the street to the Botanical Garden for what ended up being one of the most unique experiences! Walking in and getting tickets was no problem at £20 per person. We were given just a map for a self-guided tour. From the Cloud Forest house of tropical plants, to the Carnivorous Plant house, to the Cheshire cat in a tree, it was the most delightful, unexpected finds, and a must-see.

As we had dinner reservations in London this evening, we snacked intermittently to save our appetite!

While this is not a full-day itinerary, these are three other standouts from our trip worth considering.

While golf started in Scotland, there are many historic and beautiful courses in England worth playing. Moor Park was one of them. We scheduled a car with Parker Car Service for about £250 round-trip. We took our clubs, they picked us up where we were staying, and brought us back. We wanted a historic course in the countryside, and we were not disappointed. Green’s fee was £125 each, not including a lorry (cart) or buggy (electric walking cart). It was the right weather, hazy and misting in the morning, and cleared for a beautiful day. The clubhouse was out of Dowton Abby and served all you needed for an after-golf meal, cheese toasties and beer! Golf at a historic site is not golf in the US. The fairways are not manicured or even. They are essentially the ground as it is mowed, lumpy, rolling, and rough. Fun!

Our very first day in London, we arrived at noon—we dropped all of our luggage and went to Fenchurch, the uppermost restaurant in the Sky Garden. It is a stunning view of the city and, frankly, a surprising and sophisticated meal. High-end, amazing service, and again, views to die for. For two, £280. With a reservation, you get access to the walk around the Sky Garden. You can go without eating—entry is free, but you have to book a time. There was a long line when we arrived. People with a reservation or ticket can take the faster line.

For those wanting to see a historic building in London that is still in use, the Royal Courts of Justice was a remarkable visit. Through a little research, I booked a tour for £40 for the two of us on the website, which was about an hour. The tour was a led tour by a gentleman that was incredibly knowledgeable about the building, the history, and gave many current examples of famous people in court—he was also a solicitor (lawyer in England). We got to see some private chambers and a few of the private meeting rooms. Well worth it.