Curator’s statement
Beneath the glass canopies of Paris, time slows. These arcades—whispers of another era—offer hidden beauty, quiet charm, and a touch of everyday magic. This is my handpicked path through the city’s secret passages that invite you to wander, linger, and let wonder lead the way. Bienvenue à Paris!
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Things to do in Paris

Passage des Panoramas – 11 Boulevard Montmartre → Rue Saint-Marc, 2nd arrondissement - established: 1799
Step into the oldest covered arcade in Paris, a true Belle Époque gem where time feels suspended. Passage des Panoramas was not only the first of its kind in the city—it was also among the earliest public spaces to be illuminated by gaslight. Well-known for its rare stamp dealers and cozy bistros.
Galerie Vivienne – 4 Rue des Petits Champs → Rue Vivienne → Rue de la Banque, 2nd arrondissement - established: 1823
One of the most elegant arcades in Paris, Galerie Vivienne is a neoclassical beauty with arched ceilings, soaring glasswork, and intricate mosaic floors. Designated a historical monument, it was once a favorite haunt of author Colette and Jean Paul Gaultier.
Galerie Véro-Dodat – 19 Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau → 2 Rue du Bouloi, 1st arrondissement - established: 1826
A neoclassical jewel in the heart of Paris, Galerie Véro-Dodat is known for its distinctive black-and-white checkered floors and elegant vaulted ceilings. This arcade is home to Christian Louboutin’s original boutique and offers a refined mix of antique shops, art galleries, and upscale craftsmanship in a serene, light-filled setting.
Passage du Bourg-l’Abbé – 120 Rue Saint-Denis → 3 Rue de Palestro, 2nd arrondissement - established: 1828
One of Paris’ more discreet arcades, Passage du Bourg-l’Abbé offers a nostalgic glimpse into the past with its original glass canopy, ironwork details, and faded signage. Quiet and less visited, it retains an authentic feel.
Passage Choiseul – 23 Rue Saint-Augustin → 40 Rue Dalayrac, 2nd arrondissement – established: 1825–1827
Once the longest covered passage in Paris, Passage Choiseul blends everyday bustle with historic echoes. It’s best known as the childhood home of author Louis-Ferdinand Céline.
Passage du Grand Cerf – 145 Rue Saint-Denis → 10 Rue Dussoubs, 2nd arrondissement – established: circa 1825
With its soaring 12-meter glass canopy, Passage du Grand Cerf is the tallest of Paris’ covered arcades—and one of the most visually striking. Flooded with natural light, it’s a favorite among design lovers, offering a curated mix of artisan workshops, indie boutiques, and creative concept stores.
Passage Jouffroy – 10–12 Boulevard Montmartre → 9 Rue de la Grange-Batelière, 9th arrondissement – established: 1845–1846
The first Parisian arcade built entirely of metal and glass, Passage Jouffroy blends innovation with old-world charm. Its patterned tile floors and curved skylights guide visitors past bookshops, toy stores, and tea salons. It’s also home to the whimsical Musée Grévin wax museum
Passage Verdeau – 6 Rue de la Grange-Batelière → 31 Rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, 9th arrondissement – established: 1847
The most tranquil of the three linked arcades (alongside Jouffroy and Panoramas), Passage Verdeau offers a gentler pace and nostalgic charm. It’s especially beloved by collectors for its antique shops, vintage books, and art prints.
Passage du Havre – 69 Rue de Caumartin → 109 Rue Saint-Lazare, 9th arrondissement – established: 1845 (rebuilt in the 1990s)
Once known for its toy stores and model train shops, Passage du Havre has been reimagined as a sleek, modern shopping arcade. Though contemporary in feel, it still nods to its past with clean lines, natural light, and garden-inspired accents just steps from Gare Saint-Lazare.
Places to eat & drink in Paris

Where to eat near Passage des Panoramas
Caffè Stern: Set in a former engraving workshop, this stylish trattoria by Philippe Starck serves refined Italian fare in a candlelit, artful setting. Highlights include truffle risotto, handmade pasta, and a smart wine list.
Hours: Tuesday–Saturday, 12:00–14:30 & 19:00–22:30—closed Sunday–Monday
Where to eat near Galerie Vivienne
Daroco: Set in Jean Paul Gaultier’s former atelier, this stylish Italian spot draws crowds with its pizzas, pastas, and photogenic marble–velvet interiors. Chic, buzzy, and effortlessly cool.
Hours: Daily, 12:00–23:00
Where to eat near Passage Jouffroy
Bouillon Chartier: Just steps from the arcade, Bouillon Chartier has been serving classic French fare since 1896 in a bustling Belle Époque dining hall. Known for its ornate Art Deco interior, brisk service, and unbelievably affordable prices, it’s a true Paris institution.
Hours: Daily, 11:30–22:00
Where to eat near Passage Verdeau
Quignon: A neighborhood favorite just steps from the arcade, Quignon is known for buttery croissants, seasonal tarts, and a warm, welcoming vibe. It’s a perfect morning stop before wandering through antique shops and bookstores.
Hours: Daily, 07:00–20:00
Where to eat near Passage du Bourg-l’Abbé (day or night)
Café du Centre (Day): A laid-back brasserie with terrace seating, Café du Centre is perfect for a relaxed midday break. Think salade niçoise, steak-frites, and a crisp glass of white wine in the heart of the Montorgueil district.
Hours: Daily, 12:00–23:00
Les Bains (Evening/Night): Formerly a 19th-century bathhouse turned cultural hotspot, Les Bains is now a brasserie and cocktail bar offering modern French cuisine.
Hours: Tuesday–Saturday, 19:00–02:00; closed Sunday–Monday
Where to eat near Passage Choiseul
Le Comptoir de la Gastronomie: Just around the corner from the arcade, this épicerie-style restaurant is famed for its house-made foie gras, smoked duck, and classic French comfort dishes. Intimate, authentic—it’s a favorite for lunch or a cozy dinner.
Hours: Daily, 12:00–23:00
Where to eat near Passage du Grand Cerf
Urfa Dürüm: Beloved by local chefs and food writers alike, Urfa Dürüm is a no-frills gem serving up Kurdish flatbreads, grilled meats, and smoky eggplant with serious flavor. It’s quick, craveable, and just a short stroll from the arcade.
Hours: Daily, 11:00–23:00
Where to eat near Passage du Havre
Le Vaudeville: This Art Deco brasserie offers a polished setting for oysters, sole meunière, and French classics done right. Steps from the arcade, it’s ideal for a leisurely lunch or dinner.
Hours: Daily, 12:00–23:00
Need to know
In Paris, opening hours are an art rather than a science—posted hours are a suggestion, not a promise. It’s always wise to double-check before you go—because sometimes, even the best spots take their time opening (or never open at all).

Travel Advisor
Marisa Varga

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