The Quiet South: Sicily From Fishing Villages to Cruise Ports

I’m not entirely sure how I first stumbled upon the name Marzamemi, a tiny fishing village along Sicily’s southeastern coast. By contrast, I had certainly heard of Noto—the golden Baroque town is a UNESCO site. Besides, who can forget the famed trip in The White Lotus? So from our port in Siracusa, we hired a driver to take us first to Noto, then on to Marzamemi, and the day became one of the most memorable of our Sicilian journey.

We had just started exploring the streets of Noto when we came across a sweet Nonna, who enthusiastically greeted us with the warmest buongiorno! We spent time in four stunning churches, each with its own character, before we continued south—an hour’s drive through olive groves and quiet countryside—toward Marzamemi.

Marzamemi, with just 367 residents, surprised us at every turn. The village has a Michelin-recognized restaurant, a charming piazza, and a history rooted in tuna fishing. We wandered past the old fishermen’s warehouses, stopped into a shop selling canned tuna, hand-cut pastas, pistachios, and olive oil, and eventually settled into a seaside restaurant. Our lunch was simple but unforgettable: tuna with oranges, red onion, olive oil, and red peppers, alongside burrata, tomatoes, and crusty bread. Fresh herbs grew along the path to the dining area. The sea provided the backdrop, and bicyclists stopped to fuel up on whole fish, lush green salads, and pastas. The wine list was equally impressive—well worth asking the sommelier for recommendations of Sicilian gems (Taverna La Cialoma).

Even our driver, who usually tours visitors around Mt. Etna, admitted he had never taken guests here. Later, he told us that at night the quiet square transforms into a lively club scene—a side of Marzamemi we didn’t experience.

We ended the day back in Siracusa, where our guide arranged a quick spin through Ortigia in a little tuk-tuk. Though we missed the bustling morning food market, and much of Ortigia, we witnessed enough to know we need to return and spend more time there! Our final stop was at Belfiore Gelato & Cioccolato—where they guided us through unique gelato flavors. The walk back was lined with neatly pruned oleander trees, the perfect closing to a blissful day of discovery.

Taverna La Cialoma: Our lunch was simple but unforgettable: tuna with oranges, red onion, olive oil, and red peppers, alongside burrata, tomatoes, and crusty bread. Fresh herbs grew along the path to the dining area, the sea provided the backdrop, and bicyclists stopped to fuel up on whole fish, lush green salads and pastas. The wine list was equally impressive—well worth asking the sommelier for recommendations of Sicilian gems.

Belfiore Gelato & Cioccolato: All your favorite flavors with unique offerings and combinations that are best left to the expert staff.