A Holiday Guide to Salzburg and Vienna

Salzburg

Hike to Obere Stadtaussicht Overlook

If you want a dreamy view of the city lit up with Christmas lights set with the snow-capped mountains in the background, take this short hike just before sunset. You can get a 360 degree view of the city if you walk around the Franziskischlössl (“THECASTLE”) but leave plenty of time to hike back down before the sun actually sets. It’s a bit steep in some areas and definitely not a walk you want to do in the dark.

If you’re looking for something more out of the box, visit THECASTLE on a Sunday evening for their techno concerts. Just be sure to book transportation well in advance.

Mirabelle Palace

The Sound of Music fans can’t miss this landmark and the beautiful gardens within. While it won’t be in bloom during the holiday season, you can still stroll the gardens for free and catch a classical concert at the palace. Get a little dressed up and hum along to your favorite Christmas carols.

Cafe culture

Coffee and dedicated coffee houses are big throughout all of Austria. There’s really no place better, in my opinion, to absorb the quintessential European lifestyle than to linger over breakfast at one of several throughout Salzburg. Some favorite spots to cozy up on a cold morning include Cafe Bazar, Cafe No 5, and Das Kaffeehaus.

Historical tours

For such a small city, Salzburg has several historical sites that can be self-guided or toured with an experienced guide. Take the funicular up to Hohensalzburg Fortress to tour this medieval fortress and discover its history from the 11th century until now. Take a walking tour of Altstadt and learn how the city evolved behind the fortress walls. Take a peek inside the Salzburg Cathedral. Or, if you’re a fan of classical music, tour Mozart’s birthplace on the other side of the river.

Shopping

You could meander for hours in and out of the shops throughout Altstadt, Salzburg’s Old Town area. Take in the beautiful Christmas decorations, experience a ride in a horse-drawn carriage, and check some belated Christmas gifts off your list from stores carrying everything from modern luxury fashion to souvenirs and traditional Bavarian attire. Goldgasse and the main streets can be quite crowded during the holiday season, but some of the best finds are on the side streets and alleyways, so don’t skimp on the edges. And of course, lean into the sites and smells of the traditional Christkindl markets.

Christmas markets

The markets in Salzburg really are magical. They do draw a crowd, but you won’t find yourself squeezing and straining to find space like the markets in some other European cities. You’ll find the main market off Residenzplatz, which then branches out behind the Cathedral. Pass through the various stalls selling ornaments, decor, toys, clothing, and more. Pause to watch the children’s eyes light up beneath the massive Christmas tree surrounded by a working model toy train. And diets be damned. When can you indulge if not around the holidays? Grab that hot cocoa or gluhwine, snack on a soft-baked pretzel with cheese, and polish it off with a Kasekrainer (basically, an Austrian hot dog)—but don’t forget cash! Most stalls will only accept cash or offer a discount to avoid the card fees.

Vienna

The New Year Trail

Vienna is literally electric on New Year’s Eve, and an exceptional way to experience the energy and the huge electric chandeliers hanging from above is via their annual New Year Trail. The trail is set up all throughout Innere Stadt with well marked signage, food and drink kiosks, and concert stages every few blocks. The best way to experience this is to take a lap early and then set yourself up at a table with a view at Do&Co Vienna or the Park Hyatt.

Museums

Vienna is well-stocked with museums, and each building’s architecture is its own marvel beyond the historic artifacts and artworks inside. Visit the Kunsthistorisches Museum and its Instagram-worthy cafe, the National Library, and the Vienna Opera House.

Innere Stadt

This is Vienna’s downtown district and is home to several cafes, restaurants, and great shopping. Stephensplatz is worth a quick visit if there’s a short line. One of Europe’s oldest cathedrals feels especially cozy and festive during the holidays.

Palaces

There are several palaces and royal residences throughout Vienna, but the two most worth seeing are Schonbrunn Palace and Belvedere Palace. Schonbrunn has a rich history and an expansive network of buildings and gardens to explore. Plan to spend about half a day there and enjoy the Christmas market open through the first week of January, complete with a ferris wheel and working train for children. It’s important to book tickets ahead of time if visiting around the holidays, as they do sell out.

Belvedere Palace is closer to the city, and Lower Belvedere is a favorite for contemporary art and historic architecture lovers alike. The pop up exhibits can be enjoyed in about an hour, and tickets can be bought online or at the door on the day of your visit.

The Spanish Riding School

If you have an equestrian in your travel group, a tour or show at the Spanish Riding School is a must! The school is committed to preserving the art of classic dressage (“horse dancing”) and trains the famous Lippizaner horses.

Naschmarkt

Better in the warmer months but still enjoyable in the winter, breeze through the Naschmarkt. It’s full of eclectic restaurants and bars but most notably features stall after stall of fresh produce, meats, baked goods, candy, and more! Be sure to stop into Zur Eisernen Zeit for a dessert and coffee or linger over dinner. Its atmosphere is cozy and authentic. They have a great Buchteln (yeast bun with jam inside).

Salzburg

• Steinterrase Rooftop: The rooftop restaurant at The Stein Hotel has incredibly friendly service and offers panoramic views of the river and the city. Stop here when you first arrive in Salzburg for a delicious lunch and a glass of champagne.

• Restaurant Pfefferschiff: This Michelin-starred restaurant is a bit outside of the city but easily reached by taxi. The servers immediately welcome you into a home-like atmosphere and ply you with course after course of delectable Austrian dishes served with colorful and inventive plating. We opted for the wine pairing, which we did not regret.

• Cafe Bazar: One of the best coffee houses to enjoy true Austrian cafe culture. There is usually a line, but if you get in early, you can be seated quickly and enjoy some great people-watching before setting out on your day’s adventure. They have both Austrian and American-style dishes on the menu. Their croissants are worth writing home about.

• Alter Fuchs: Across the river from Aldstadt, duck into this warm and vibrant tavern for a quick lunch or snack. The service is friendly, the dishes are hearty, and it resembles a more intimate beer hall, making you feel like those around you are just friends and neighbors waiting to be met.

Vienna

• Aend: This was the best meal we had in all of Austria! This Michelin-starred restaurant has a contemporary atmosphere. No frills but invitingly casual. You can see the kitchen prepare and plate each dish. Dishes here more prominently feature fish and seafood, but we enjoyed the cuts of meat as well. Each bite was surprisingly textured before quickly melting away in your mouth. It’s a splurge, but well worth it for celebrating the holiday or a special occasion.

• Cafe Ritter: Classic Austrian coffee house serving everything from breakfast to desserts. Great place to linger over coffees and plan your day ahead.

• Mast Weinbistro: Located in a more residential and business district of Vienna, this restaurant is on Michelin’s Bib Gourmand list and serves modern dishes with inventive plating. A favorite was their mushroom ramen, the perfect way to warm up on a chilly night.

• Cucina Itameshi: Italian/Japanese fusion? Here me out. This spot was so surprising in the best ways! Owned by the same team behind the popular MAKA Ramen, they serve up the most creative combinations of both cuisines, like their stracciatella brussels or udon bolognese.

• Kleine Cafe: Literally meaning small cafe, you can find it tucked away from the chaos of Innere Stadt in a quaint little alley. Perfect pit stop for an espresso and a sachertorte.

• Zur Eisernen Zeit: If you missed my note above about Naschmarkt, this is a great place for dinner or just desserts. Unassuming but welcoming, keep warm over a Buchteln or something heartier.

• Chez Bernard at Hotel Motto: Even if you don’t stay at Hotel Motto, Chez Bernard is worth a visit. Whether staying for dinner or just ponying up to the bar for a drink, you’ll quickly be buzzing from the energy and ambiance of a French Brasserie. We only grabbed a nightcap, but every dish being served looked delicious and our drinks were excellent.