From the West End to Waterloo: An Afternoon's Walk Across London

We would start around 10:30 am at the National Gallery in Trafalgar Square; there’s no entry fee (except for special exhibits), but donations are always appreciated. We would spend an hour or two enjoying the Old Masters, or the Impressionists, or whatever took our fancy.

At lunchtime, we headed across the square to the Cafe in the Crypt restaurant at St. Martin in the Fields church. It’s very popular now, but we started going when you had to walk down a narrow flight of stairs on the side of the church. This surprising spot offers an array of fresh food and unique atmosphere.

From there we would head east down The Strand, taking in the sights and sounds of the city. Be careful going through the busy intersection at Aldwych—the traffic is crazy. The Royal Courts of Justice on the north side of the street is a beautiful and impressive building.

Just at this point the road name changes—you’re now on Fleet Street, famous for its tabloid journals and Sondheim’s Demon Barber. Across the street from the Old Bank of England is a non-descript black door - go through there, and you’re on Middle Temple Lane, a place whose history is well worth reading up on.

Continue down the evocative cobbled street to the large archway on the left, and you’ll find yourself in the courtyard of Temple Church. Every fan of The DaVinci Code by Dan Brown will recognize Temple Church, and it’s definitely worth a visit—check out the gargoyles inside.

After exiting the church, turn right, and the lane will take you back to Fleet Street. Continue to the right towards St. Paul’s Cathedral. Our favorite pit-stop on this lengthy walk is Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese pub at 145 Fleet Street (though the entrance is down a small alley on the north side of the street, so keep your eyes peeled for the sign). This pub was “Rebuilt in 1667” after the Great Fire, so be prepared for age-hardened wood floors and low ceilings. Grab a pint and imagine the likes of Charles Dickens and W. B. Yeats sitting at the table next to you.

When exiting the pub, turn left to continue up Fleet Street. At the intersection of Faringdon Street, the road changes names again—you’re now on Ludgate Hill, which deposits you directly in front of St. Paul’s Cathedral. Take time to explore the breathtaking beauty of this massive cathedral, designed and built by Christopher Wren. It is spectacular.

When exiting St. Paul’s, head south down Peter’s Hill to the River Thames and the entrance to the Millennium Bridge. Strolling across the river on this pedestrian-only bridge provides a memorable vantage point to see the city.

At the end of the bridge, you’ll be facing the Tate Modern Art Gallery. Again, admission to the permanent collection is free. By now you’ll be gasping for a brew (as the locals say), so do pop into the tea room for a cuppa and a biscuit (or tea and a cookie, as the Yanks say).

Exiting the Tate, turn left and stroll along the riverbank, savoring the memory of what has been a rewarding day out in London. On the way to the train station, you’ll pass the National Theatre—stop in the box office and see what’s playing, and maybe grab dinner at one of the several restaurants there. Eric and I would end our adventure at Waterloo train station where we’d grab the tube back to our digs and put our feet up!

• Cafe in the Crypt, St. Martin in the Fields Church, Trafalgar Square. This place is a hidden gem for delicious food in a totally unique atmosphere. Try the bread pudding with custard if they have it for dessert.

• Gallery at the Savoy, Savoy Hotel, The Strand. Go for an unforgettable Afternoon Tea experience, available from 12-6 pm daily. There are plenty of places in London for afternoon tea, but this is by far the most iconic.

• Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, 145 Fleet Street. A traditional British Chop House in one of the most historic locations in London. You’ll be telling your friends about this place for years to come!

• Forza Wine, top level, National Theatre. This rooftop restaurant serves gorgeous Italian-inspired dishes. If the weather is nice, you can eat outside on the terrace overlooking the Thames. This is a great place for lunch or dinner, but if there’s a show on, you may have trouble getting a table before curtain time.