Visiting the Amalfi Coast and Campania from Salerno

On my trips, I come here first when arriving in country. It’s easiest to go far away from my round-trip airport (usually Rome) and work my way back. Another benefit of coming here right away is the laid-back nature of the south where you can ease your way into Italian life away from the big tourist cities.
When you arrive in Salerno, you are probably looking for your first bite of Italian food! If you are lucky, you will arrive before 2pm and be able to sit down in a restaurant on your way to your hotel. I suggest Pizzeria Trianon in Piazza Flavio Gioia right off the main shopping street called the Corso.

After settling in and recharging a bit, head out to explore the city and participate in the passeggiata, the evening stroll where Italians spend time with their friends and family socializing throughout the city.
On your passeggiata, stop by the Salerno Duomo, regarded as one of the most beautiful medieval churches in all of Italy. Don’t miss the underground crypt which is ornately decorated with painting and colored marble.

Grab dinner at Spunzillo, an authentic Italian restaurant with a modern feel where you can indulge in delicious pizza or pasta, with my favorite being the scarpariello, made with tomatoes, basil and parmesan, resulting in a cheesy tomato explosion in your mouth.
Walk off your dinner along the sea walk called the Lungomare and back to your accommodation for a good night’s sleep.

Starting off your Italian adventure slowly, grab a 30-minute train to Paestum (be sure to check train times as they are sparse at times and VALIDATE your ticket!) where you can walk among some of the most well-preserved Greek temples outside of the Acropolis in Athens and learn about their culture in the accompanying museum. Be sure to try some of the local buffalo mozzarella!

Take an early afternoon train back to Salerno and head up the hill to the birthplace of the famous Vietri pottery. Peruse shops from local artisans whose work ranges from tiny coasters to grand wall installations and find your favorite to take home.

Take a walk along the Lungomare again (it’s THE thing to do and you will enjoy it every time!) after arriving back in town and head to Ristorante Pinocchio for a menu filled with Salernitan and southern Italian food for you to feast upon.

Take a ferry to Amalfi to experience the coast. Explore the town and the Cathedral of St. Andrew before choosing your own adventure for the rest of the day. You can stay in town and visit the Amalfi Paper Museum and do a short hike that starts across the street. Another option is a bus to Bomerano to start the LONG yet GORGEOUS Path of the Gods hike ending in Positano, or you can hop on a bus to the mountaintop town of Ravello to the gorgeous gardens of Villa Cimbrone and Villa Rufolo.

If you head to Ravello, wander into the back streets of the town and end up at Trattoria Pizzeria Cumpa’ Cosimo where you will feel like you just got adopted into an Italian family and your Italian grandmother is cooking for you.

After ferrying back to Salerno, stroll through the Centro Storico (historic center) to find an out-of-the-way spot for dinner.

Hop on a VERY SLOW train to Herculaneum or Pompeii direct from Salerno or travel via Naples on two trains for a slightly faster arrival. These are two sites destroyed by the eruption of Vesuvius, but are VERY different. Pompeii is vast, under the sun and mostly destroyed buildings that will take most of the day. Herculaneum was covered by a different type of material and is a much smaller site, but you can get a different perspective of a more well-preserved area at these lesser visited ruins.

Keep an eye on the train schedules for the easiest journey home.

Once you return to Salerno, another walk along the Lungomare is in order, and a stop at Bar Gelateria Nettuno is a MUST. Join the locals as they choose the perfect flavors from the best gelato in Salerno! It is busy at all hours, but especially in the afternoon and late into the evening when life on the Lungomare is at its busiest. My favorite combination is fragola e limone (strawberry and lemon) with a close second being any of their cream-based flavors paired with the Nutella flavor, bonus if you get it in their famous brioche!

For dinner, stop into Hostaria il Brigante, the epitome of a local restaurant. Just a few steps above the Duomo, step inside into this intimate restaurant and you might be the only English speakers. Enjoy the authentic cuisine and try something new!

Head to the commercial port for an early morning ferry to Capri (be sure to have a plan for returning, either purchase your round-trip tickets together or get the return ticket when you arrive on the island to avoid lines). Purchase your (again, round-trip) ticket up the Funicolare to Capri town, and to beat the crowds exploring, immediately get a (you know by now, round-trip) ticket for the bus up to Anacapri to see the best views of the island.

Once you arrive up the mountain, it’s time to hop on the chairlift to the top of Monte Solaro. The 12-minute ride in the single seat chairlift rewards your courage with the most breathtaking views of the idyllic island that you have been dreaming of since you booked your trip. With good weather, it’s a perfect spot for an amateur photoshoot above the famous Faraglioni rocks. After descending the mountain, stroll along the pathways of Anacpari, stop into the Chiesa San Michele to see the famous painted floor and find a charming spot for lunch away from most of the tourists who never make it up the mountain to this tiny town.

After your sun-drenched day at Capri, make your last night in Salerno count and go for a full dinner at Cicirinella. Located behind the Duomo in the Centro Storico, this is the place to splash out on your multi-course meal in Salerno. I suggest befriending the jovial staff and taking their amazing recommendations for your perfect dinner in Salerno.

After soaking up all that Campania has to offer, take advantage of the many rail connections from Salerno and pick a Trenitalia or Italo train to take you wherever your heart desires! May I suggest Lake Garda, Verona or Torino?