Provence, Var & Vaucluse: A Luxury Insider's Guide

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Advisor - Jody Holman
Curated By

Jody Holman

  • South of France

  • Arts & Culture

  • Food & Wine

  • Off-the-Beaten-Path Travel

  • Luxury Travel

  • Nature Escapes

  • Local Culture

Advisor - Provence, Var & Vaucluse: A Luxury Insider's Guide
Curator’s statement

Provence captured my heart beyond the lavender-scented postcards and winding, cobblestoned roads. The region's true magic lies in a mix of its natural and cultural beauty. You will find medieval villages perched above vineyards, markets where farmers still sell grandmother's recipes and Roman ruins which stand alongside contemporary art installations. What keeps drawing me back is not only the sensory pleasures, though they are abundant, but also the authentic rhythm of life that persists despite tourism and that golden hour that stays with you even once you are home. This is a place where a simple roadside lunch can become a transcendent experience.

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Where to stay in the South of France

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Things to do in the South of France

Art & cultural immersion:

  • Follow the Van Gogh Trail through Saint Rémy and Arles, where marked easels show exactly where he positioned himself to create his most famous works. The asylum in Saint Rémy offers a deeply moving look into his creative process.

  • Visit Château La Coste near Aix-en-Provence, where contemporary art installations by world-renowned artists dot the vineyard landscape. The property beautifully balances wine production, architecture and artistic expression.

  • Experience Carrières des Lumières in Les Baux-de-Provence, where immersive art projections transform limestone quarries into multi-sensory environments. Go late afternoon to avoid crowds and stay for the changing light.

  • Explore the Papal Palace in Avignon, a magnificent Gothic fortress that housed the popes during the 14th century. During the summer, the Festival d'Avignon transforms the city into Europe's theater capital.

Hidden gems & authentic experiences:

  • Discover Moustiers-Sainte-Marie clinging dramatically to cliffs near the Verdon Gorge, where traditional faience pottery workshops continue centuries-old techniques. Ask about factory seconds at the workshops for beautiful pieces at significant discounts.

  • Wander the ochre trails in Roussillon during the golden hour when the red-orange cliffs seem to glow from within. Wear dark clothing as the pigment can stain.

  • Visit Cotignac in the Var to see dramatic tufa cliffs with troglodyte dwellings carved directly into the rock. The Tuesday market remains refreshingly local.

  • Explore the perched village of Bonnieux in the Luberon, with commanding views across the valley and a Friday market that attracts more locals than tourists.

Natural wonders:

  • Kayak the turquoise waters of the Verdon Gorge, Europe's deepest canyon. Reserve equipment in advance during the summer months and start early before crowds arrive.

  • Hike the white limestone landscape of Les Alpilles near Saint Rémy for panoramic views across olive groves and vineyards. The circular trail from Saint-Rémy to Les Baux offers spectacular vistas.

  • Discover the Calanques National Park between Marseille and Cassis, where limestone cliffs plunge into crystal Mediterranean waters. Access many calanques only by foot or boat, preserving their pristine quality.

  • Cycle around Mont Ventoux, the "Giant of Provence" famous from the Tour de France. Even non-cyclists can drive the winding roads to experience diverse ecosystems changing with elevation.

Teen-friendly adventures:

  • Try canyoning in the Verdon Gorge, combining swimming, climbing and jumping through turquoise waterways. Multiple outfitters offer experiences for varying skill levels.

  • Take perfume workshops in Grasse, where teens can create custom scents using regional flowers and herbs. A perfect personalized souvenir to remember the trip.

  • Explore underground river systems at Fontaine de Vaucluse, where crystal-clear water emerges mysteriously from beneath the mountain. The depth of the source remains unknown despite numerous attempts to measure it.

  • Visit traditional soap-making workshops in Marseille, where chemistry meets cultural heritage. Many allow visitors to create their own scented bars.

Places to eat & drink in the South of France

Moustiers Ste. Marie/ Alain Ducasse

Exceptional dining:

  • La Bastide de Moustiers in Moustiers-Sainte-Marie showcases Alain Ducasse's vision of Provençal cuisine using ingredients grown in the restaurant's gardens. Book weeks in advance for lunch on the terrace.

  • L'Oustalet in Gigondas pairs exceptional regional cuisine with wines from the owner's neighboring Perrin estate. Their seasonal truffle menu is worth planning a winter visit around.

  • La Chassagnette, near Arles operates its own organic gardens, creating vegetable-forward cuisine that redefines farm-to-table dining. The remote location in the Camargue adds to its mystique.

  • Le Jardin de Berne at Château de Berne in Lorgues earned its Michelin star through masterful presentations of hyperlocal ingredients. Their wine pairings showcase the estate's exceptional production.

Authentic local experiences:

  • Chez Yogi in Séguret serves traditional Provençal dishes in a hillside setting. Their pistou soup recipe has remained unchanged for generations.

  • Le Café de la Place in Lourmarin offers simple but perfect lunches on the plane tree-shaded square. Ideal for people-watching during market days.

  • Le Bistrot du Paradou near Les Baux serves a single-set menu that changes daily. The cheese course alone justifies the journey.

  • Coquillade Village's Restaurant in Gargas specializes in truffle dishes during the winter months, with exceptional views across Luberon vineyards.

Wine & aperitif spots:

  • Château Simone near Aix produces age-worthy whites and reds in the tiny Palette appellation. Their tasting room occupies a 16th-century cellar beneath the family's château.

  • Domaine Tempier in Bandol offers tastings of their world-renowned Mourvèdre-based reds. Call ahead to arrange a visit with detailed vineyard explanations.

  • Château Valmer in La Croix-Valmer produces exceptional rosés in vineyard parcels extending almost to the Mediterranean shore. Their terrace tastings combine wine education with sea views.

  • La Closeraie in Bonnieux serves creative cocktails featuring local herbs and fruits. Their lavender spritz makes the perfect sunset accompaniment.

Need to know

Planning your Provençal journey:

When to visit: For the iconic lavender fields in bloom, plan your trip between mid-June and early August. September and October offer harvest festivals and wine experiences with fewer crowds. Spring (April–May) brings wildflowers and pleasant temperatures.

Getting around: Renting a car is essential for exploring the countryside and reaching less touristy villages. The freedom to meander through sunflower fields and stop at roadside wine domains is part of the Provençal experience.

Suggested itineraries:

  • 5-7 Days: Focus on either western Provence (Alpilles, Luberon) or eastern Provence (Var, Verdon Gorge).

  • 10-14 Days: Combine regions for a comprehensive experience, perhaps beginning in the Luberon, moving to the Alpilles, then finishing in the Var.

Off-season treasures:

Winter visits reveal Provence's authentic rhythms:

  • Truffle markets in Carpentras (Friday mornings, November–March).

  • Olive harvest festivities in December.

  • Christmas markets featuring regional crafts and santons (hand-painted nativity figures).

Practical tips:

Transportation connections:

  • TGV trains reach Avignon and Aix-en-Provence from Paris in under three hours.

  • Consider flying into Marseille and departing from Nice for one-way driving itineraries.

Luxury services:

  • Private chefs can be arranged at many boutique properties.

  • Helicopter transfers between regions maximize time while providing spectacular views.

  • Expert guides specializing in art history, wine or archaeology enhance contextual understanding.

Advisor - Jody Holman

Travel Advisor

Jody Holman

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