A Weekend in Annecy, France

Accommodation

On our first day there, we checked into the lovely Hébé Hotel. It is a 4-star boutique hotel, just outside of the historic city center. It is about a block or two from the train center, which if you are visiting from other parts of France makes it very convenient. It is also a very quiet spot and with less noise and activity than the city center, but still only a 5–10 minute walk to the hub of activity.

The hotel, while small, has a very lovely dining room (our breakfast was fresh and delicious), a small bar, and an outdoor terrace.

Another nice on-site amenity is the ability to rent current-model e-bicycles, which would be a great way to explore the historic city and the beautiful Lake Annecy.

The concierge, Hugo, could not have been more welcoming and helpful. He attended to our every request with kindness and efficiency.

Our room was more modern, with a minimalist feel, and pristine. The room had a skylight that opened to let in the cool mountain air. Our room had a separate living room and a full modern bathroom. There was a mini refrigerator, a large screen TV, and a coffee pot, which was all we needed to make our stay very comfortable. During the course of our stay, the housekeeping team did an excellent job keeping our room clean, providing clean towels and water.

Dinner in Annecy

After refreshing from our long overnight flight from EWR, we headed out for a walk and an early dinner. There is a lot of influence from the nearby country of Switzerland, so we chose to have a dinner that reflected the influence of the mountain villages of both France and Switzerland. We ate at a modern, yet cozy establishment called Le Freti. The menu items that caught our eye were the raclette and fondue. We chose very well. The warm cheese atop crusty bread, pearl onions, and potatoes, alongside dried meats was the perfect way to start our weekend getaway.

Authentic raclette

Culinary adventure

On Friday morning, we set out for a culinary adventure, meeting a local chef and the Farmers’ Market held each week on Tuesday and Friday mornings. It was a sensory delight! Alexia was a chef who worked with Traveling Spoon (a company that pairs local cooks with travelers wanting an authentic local experience) and instantly became a friend as she took us through the market to select produce, fish, and herbs for the meal we were about to make in her home’s kitchen. It was so interesting to hear how and where many of these fresh items were produced or grown, and we loved meeting some of her favorite vendors.

The market

After our shopping was completed on the streets of Annecy, we took a 15 minute walk to Alexia’s home just outside the city center. It was a charming apartment with mountain views on the 3rd floor. She took us to her garden to get more herbs before starting the cooking process. And then she worked her magic in the kitchen, combining all these fresh ingredients into a superb meal.

For an appetizer, she made a fresh goat cheese and herb tart, followed by some asparagus with an asparagus cream. The main course was trout alongside a medley of new potatoes and a seeded cracker, ingeniously made with the left-over pastry dough. The final course was a pannacotta with fresh strawberries in the brightest shade of red. Everything was delicious to taste and beautiful to look at.

Having her tell us anecdotes of her family and culinary history while overlooking the Alps, was an added benefit to an already wonderful morning. I just can’t wait to receive the recipes, so I can try making these dishes for our family and friends.

The beautiful salad we crafted with our chef

The historic center

Later that afternoon, we had arranged for a private tour of the historic center with Pasquale. She took us to several of the many churches in the city, allowing us to learn more about its history. We learned about the city gates and the canals, plus the usage of the flowing water to aid in gaining power for the newly constructed factories. She commented on how the architecture and building facades had changed over the years, and as we strolled the streets, she pointed out famous pastry shops, ice cream vendors, and cafes.

Finally, we took a walk down to the lake, a focal point of the town. We left our tour guide feeling we knew a bit more about the history of this special place.

Around Annecy

The third day was a casual, less structured day when we did some shopping. Besides the normal types of souvenirs, we looked at local pottery, finely crafted knives, and more cheeses than you could imagine.

After a quick take-away sandwich, we headed back to the lake. We bought tickets for the sightseeing boat, which took us to the other end of the lake. Along the gorgeous waters of Lake Annecy were old castles, churches, and lakeside homes. There are two options for the boat rides, one being a roundtrip circle and the other being somewhat like a hop-on/hop-off boat excursion. Some of the towns dotting the edge of the lake included Talloires, Doussard, and Menthon-Saint Bernard. It was a beautiful late spring day with the sun shining on the crystal clear blue water and perfect in every way, except for the fact that we forgot the information on the ship was all in French. So while we didn’t learn a lot, it was a peaceful afternoon enjoying the delightful weather and beautiful scenery. Along the way, we saw sailboats, pedal boats, wind-surfers, and hang gliders (if you want a more adventurous experience) consistently.

Cruising the lake

After going back to the hotel and changing for dinner, we headed to Les Chineurs, a restaurant located in the historic center. It was a classic yet updated French restaurant with a truly French-inspired menu. Our dinner was perfect with a shared appetizer of red pepper crème brulee, main courses of tuna tartare and scallops in a cream sauce and a vegetable casserole, and French fries. Too full for a proper dessert, we settled for two cappuccinos.

A lovely evening for sure, and a lovely way to spend our last evening in this special place.

The canals of Annecy

This can easily be added to a trip to Lausanne or Geneva for a less urban experience.

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our Annecy page.