Barging the Marne-Rhine Canal

Operated by the Strasbourg-based company CroisiEurope, this intimate canal barge cruise offered a slow and immersive way to experience the heart of Alsace. CroisiEurope specializes in small-ship cruising—about 200 passengers on river and coastal voyages—but its French canal barges are a world apart, carrying just 22 guests and offering a far more personal, boutique travel experience.

France’s canal network dates back to the 17th century, built to move goods like wine, timber, and grain across the country more efficiently. Over time, railroads and highways took over, but the canals remain—no longer vital for trade, but now cherished for their tranquility and charm. Today, these gentle waterways are a paradise for slow travel, and a perfect stage for leisurely cruising, cycling, and soaking in French culture.

That’s exactly what this six-night journey aboard Jeanine delivered: scenic beauty, a relaxed rhythm, exquisite food, and daily glimpses into the rich history of Alsace. The pace is wonderfully unhurried—you can even hop off at one of the many locks and walk or bike the canal towpath to the next stop.

Hiking the Tow Path

The barge itself is elegant and thoughtfully designed: 11 cabins with twin beds and large windows, a dining room that accommodates communal or small-group seating, cozy indoor and outdoor lounges, a sun deck with loungers, a hot tub, and an always-open bar.

The Dining Room

And then there’s the food. From the first night’s dinner to the final morning’s breakfast, meals are included—and they are a highlight. Breakfast is a relaxed buffet, while lunch and dinner are multi-course, plated meals celebrating the best of Alsatian and French regional cuisine. Local wines flow freely, included with meals and available throughout the day, alongside aperitifs and cocktails (only a few premium options are extra). Two meals were taken off-ship at traditional regional restaurants, adding even more local flavor.

The guests on board reflected the love the French have for their own country—half of the passengers were French; the rest were mostly English-speaking travelers from the US and New Zealand. Ages skewed toward the 50s and 60s, though CroisiEurope does welcome families (no children were aboard during our cruise). The blend of cultures, languages, and shared meals made for lively conversations—with occasional help from Google Translate!

The crew of six was outstanding: friendly, attentive, and full of personality. A perfect example: Due to canal construction, we couldn’t sail all the way to Strasbourg. Most passengers took the included bus excursion, but five of us opted to stay in Saverne. The crew insisted we return to Jeanine for lunch, where we found a beautifully set table on the outside deck, complete with linens, china, and stemware, and were treated to an impromptu, chef-prepared lunch—pure hospitality.

Each day included optional excursions that brought Alsace’s history and culture to life. Highlights included:

A hilltop Chappe telegraph station, part of an 18th-century semaphore network that once relayed messages across France

The dramatic Château de Hohbarr, known as the “Eye of Alsace,” offering panoramic views of the surrounding plains

• Marc Chagall’s luminous "La Paix” stained glass window in Sarrebourg’s Chapelle des Cordeliers.

• The Château des Rohan in Saverne, sometimes called the “Versailles of Alsace."

• A guided tour of Strasbourg, with its storybook old town, soaring cathedral, and European institutions.

• A visit to Villa Meteor, France’s oldest family owned brewery.

• The Maison du Kochersberg, a charming folk museum preserving Alsatian rural traditions.

The Eye of Alsace

Maison du Kochersberg

One of the most memorable moments? Gliding down the Saint-Louis–Arzviller inclined plane, a unique barge elevator that replaces 17 locks and turns a full day’s journey into a thrilling, four-minute descent.

Saint-Louis–Arzviller inclined plane

CroisiEurope’s canal barge cruises are virtually all-inclusive, making them an easy and great-value way to explore France. Here’s what’s covered:

• All meals are included—from the first dinner to the final breakfast

• Drinks are included. Wines are complimentary with meals, as well as wines, aperitifs, and cocktails at the bar (only a few top-shelf items cost extra).

• There is free on-board Wi-Fi—and yes, it actually works.

• Bicycles are available—perfect for a ride along the scenic towpaths.

• Gratuities are not included, and a suggested amount is €200 per cabin at the end of the cruise.

A note about the cabins: they are compact but cleverly designed. Expect two single beds and a combination toilet/shower unit. Some CroisieEurope barges have one cabin on the upper deck with one double bed—ideal for anyone mobility-impaired. Storage is smartly arranged to tuck away clothes and luggage, and, truthfully, you’ll spend most of your time soaking up the views, not the square footage.

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our cruises page.