A Case for the Maldives: Why, When & Where to Go

I love the ocean, and specifically warm, clear ocean waters. My husband and I stayed in overwater bungalows in Tahiti, Bora Bora, and Moorea for our honeymoon. We took scuba diving after Finding Nemo inspired me to see the Great Barrier Reef. Snorkeling continues to be my #1 favorite activity when vacationing in the tropics.

Each Maldivian resort is on its own island, which means you are spoiled for breathtaking views and steps away from turquoise water throughout each property.

My first island was the St. Regis Vommuli Resort. Part of the Dhaalu Atoll, this natural island is removed from the boat traffic (and at night light pollution) closer to Malé. St. Regis is thus blessed with a “house reef” full of sea life—snorkeling right off the beach, we saw several small blacktip reef sharks, an eagle ray, and abundant colorful fish (and this was during monsoon season when visibility isn’t at its best). The resort’s spa features the Insta-worthy Blue Hole infinity hydrotherapy pool, kept at a blissfully cool temperature, which was so refreshing in the humid heat!

On the ride from the airport, a video welcome from our St. Regis butlers who greeted us each by name

The second resort we visited was the equally luxurious One&Only Reethi Rah, which prides itself in having an abundance of activities, including motorized water sports and snorkeling/diving excursions to spots with names like “Fish Tank.” You’ll never be bored on this 44-hectare island that boasts so many activities and services beyond water sports: a beach club with (no rental needed) cabanas, table games, tennis, padel (sort of a European pickleball), volleyball, football (aka soccer, with staff playing regular games), a climbing wall, pottery and painting studios, three pools, kids club, bike paths to explore 12 beaches, and an incredible spa with a hydrotherapy circuit.

One&Only Club One beach cabana in a bold Missoni print

The big decision: overwater or beach villa?

While a honeymooning Ruth was adamant about wanting an overwater bungalow, present day Ruth adored staying in beach villas on both properties. What is the right choice for you? Luckily, I got a tour of the different room types and can show you.

The architectural form of the St. Regis’ overwater bungalow is inspired by the manta ray and has a flat roof (which helps reduce wind shake). You can choose to have sea views from your own plunge pool or peer at fish and baby sharks while perched on your private deck’s netting. Cool fact: while being the same layout, the Sunrise overwater villas are priced less than the Sunset villas. If you think you’re more likely to be having sunset cocktails at the bar, this could be a clever way to save some money.

St. Regis Overwater Villa deck

St. Regis’ beach villas take their inspiration from Maldivian fishermen huts where high vaulted ceilings were needed to bring their boats inside during rough tides. This means vaulted ceilings, an expansive interior, and a very dramatic curtain opening in the morning (using the room’s iPad controls). I also loved the tall vegetation around my “backyard” which gave the plunge pool some shade and made it feel like my own private oasis.

St. Regis Beach Villa

The One&Only’s one-bedroom villas all have the same interior layout—and what an interior it is! Vaulted ceilings, extremely spacious living and dressing areas, and ingenious storage including a makeup cabinet that hides all your tools and potions, folding out to reveal a lighted mirror and skincare mini-fridge. The outdoor layouts differ between overwater and beachfront patios, with or without a plunge pool. I was a big fan of my beach villa which afforded me the luxury of having an entire beautiful beach to myself during my morning strolls.

One&Only Villa interior

One&Only Beach Villa view

The verdict: you can’t go wrong with either and it really depends on personal preference. The overwater villas have undeniable badge value and direct access to the ocean. The beach villas feel a bit more private and you’ll be able to have those amazing sandy beach walks right off your villa door. Each villa comes with your own bicycles, or your butler will arrange buggy (golf cart) transport, allowing you easy access to view spots throughout the resort—so no FOMO needed.

For larger groups, there are also specialty villas with two or three bedrooms. The really luxe versions have kitchens, dining rooms, media rooms, private gyms and even nanny/maid quarters if you travel with help in your entourage.

Dining I am still dreaming about

All that activity and spa-ing can work up an appetite! You’ll be eating all your meals on property, and so quality and variety are crucial. Luckily both resorts had incredible food and beverage offerings throughout a portfolio of unique, stylish dining venues.

Breakfast buffets were “Asian 5-star hotel” level with a vast array of choice and a made-to-order menu (duck confit and waffles? Yes please!). And everything tastes better when eaten next to the beautiful Indian Ocean. It’s pretty amazing that they’re able to create from scratch this level of cuisine and accommodate any dietary restrictions (I saw beautiful gluten-free, vegan, no-pork, and kids stations at the ready).

My new favorite drink: Masala Chai, with a side of Indian Ocean

Casual meals can be had at a beachside grill like St. Regis’ Crust and Craft. If I close my eyes, I can still hear the bar’s ceiling full of stringed shells tinkle accompanied by the sound of ocean waves. At One&Only, I opted for room service for my last lunch so I could enjoy my villa longer. I am so glad I did as the mixed satay was authentically super delicious and the setup was perfect.

My favorite meal of the trip was at One&Only’s elevated Tapasake, a Japanese-Spanish fusion restaurant where a live DJ and ultra cool restaurant design provided a phenomenal nighttime setting to some truly incredible food.

Tuna-forward Maldivian breakfast (so delicious I had it every morning)

The heart of the Maldives

There are many places in the world with stunning vistas and amazing food, but it was the warmth and care of service infusing every moment that really made the Maldives special. A lovely gesture of placing a hand over their heart, an expression of gratitude and appreciation, was given by any staff member we passed throughout the trip. My butlers were a warm, helpful presence throughout my stay: driving the buggies to make sure I got to all the scheduled activities that have informed this article, and always available to answer my (many) questions via a WhatsApp chat. I was very sad to leave this time in my life when I was offered chilled scented hand towels anytime I walked across a threshold.

Ready to go? When to go?

The high season—from December to April—offers drier weather and glassy water ideal for snorkeling, boating, and deep-sea fishing. “Festive” (travel-speak for Christmas, Hanukkah and New Year holidays) brings special activities programming to each resort.

But as you can see from my experience, in the so-called “wet” season—from May to November—you’ll still get plenty of sunshine, and the occasional passing shower is often short-lived. For marine life lovers, this period is also the best to snorkel with manta rays and whale sharks at Hanifaru Bay in the Baa Atoll. The real perk? Many luxury resorts drop rates and throw in value-adds like complimentary island transfers and half board. And with lower resort occupancy during these months, where else in summer can you escape the tourist crowds?

Whatever your travel window, there’s a smart—and spectacular—way to do the Maldives.

No alcohol in your luggage: The Maldives is a Muslim country and while alcohol is served at the resorts, any alcohol (even in your checked bags) will be confiscated if found at the airport.

No need to get Maldivian currency: All the islands use US dollars for pricing and payment.

Set your clocks to “Island Time”: Most resorts set their clocks back an hour (to match the Bangladesh time zone) so that sunset is better timed later in the evening.

For sophisticated adults and families: The St. Regis is closing for a month starting late June 2025 to expand half of their two-bedroom villas to have larger living areas and pools, and updating their children’s space. One&Only’s guests are 60% families. While honeymooners and adult guests will find peaceful retreats and sophisticated offerings, it is clear that these islands are attracting families with huge investments in larger accommodations, immersive kids clubs, and activities for all ages.

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our Maldives page.