Civitavecchia to Barcelona with Crystal Cruises

Day 1: Embarkation day at Civitavecchia

Our seven-day, six-night cruise on the Crystal Serenity began in Civitavecchia, just a 45-minute high-speed train ride from Rome. Prior to the start of the cruise, I flew in a couple of days early to adjust to the time change as well as take in Rome in the early spring! May was a wonderful time to visit as the high season had not quite started yet and the weather was gorgeous (sunny and warm throughout). I stayed at Hotel Locarno, a five-star and one-Michelin-Key-rated property just off Piazza del Popolo. This is a fantastic stay for both first timers and repeat visitors looking for 1920s Italian charm and stellar hospitality.

Taking the train was a simple journey and a better option for the price-conscious traveller, and it was very easy to catch the shuttle from the station directly to our slip at the port. The check-in process was incredibly fast, with luggage drop-off first and then check-in with another steward separately. I had selected the 2 pm check-in time when booking my journey, and I was literally the only one in the check-in area when I arrived (when I asked if we were early boarders, the ground crew told me that fellow guests arrived in the earlier time slot and I was actually one of the last handful of guests!). Once on board, I took my welcome photo and went to my stateroom—the Sapphire Veranda Balcony Suite.

This suite is the size of two former cabins—during a 2023 refurbishment and reconstruction, they took these rooms down to the studs and combined two smaller rooms into one large suite (about 430 square feet!). This is a newer style and decor, but if you’re familiar with Crystal, they have “Classic” rooms that have technically been refurbished but have the more familiar decor and furnishings. I personally love the lighter blues and greens over the tans and earth tones.

The bathroom is large, with a walk-in shower that has a rain shower head, a nozzle-style attachment, as well as a massage mode. The water pressure was just like home (probably better). The bathroom also has two sinks so you don’t have to share with your travel partner and can spread your makeup, skincare, and other sundries to your liking.

The large veranda (107 square feet) is accessible via two sliding glass doors, one next to the bed and the other in the living area. I loved sitting out here in the early morning or just before sunset to enjoy the views and quiet.

The closet was more than enough for me as a solo traveler for a week, and would likely be just enough for a couple. The room type comes with a certain amount of complimentary laundry, pressing, and dry cleaning services depending on the length of your journey, and there is self-service laundry on ship as well so you can pack lighter.

Another major amenity and perk of this stateroom I loved: it comes with a butler! Your butler will help you with those laundry requests, bring your complimentary canapes at 4 pm, deliver your room service, and essentially help you with any questions or requests you may have.

Nothing like being welcomed by a chilled bottle of champagne in your stateroom! (Photo by Nicole Whelan)

Day 2: Civitavecchia / explore the ship

You’re reading this correctly—the itinerary actually kept the ship in port at Civitavecchia for day two to give guests who may have flown in on embarkation day the chance to explore Rome and surrounding areas. Since I had arrived a couple of days prior, I took this opportunity to explore the Crystal Serenity and all of its amenities.

I decided to get a much needed massage at Aurora Spa and then get my hair cut and styled at their studio. I scheduled both day-of and was able to find times that worked for me since many of the guests had left for excursions. I felt refreshed and ready once we departed at 7 pm for our next port at Livorno.

Day 3: Livorno

For those excited to explore Tuscany, Livorno is the port you’ll be most interested in. About a scenic hour and 15 minutes from Florence, Crystal has a variety of tours to participate in once you arrive, allowing you to explore some of the most famous Renaissance structures and artwork in the world.

Of course, you can also book tours with reliable and wonderful third parties as well if Crystal isn’t quite offering what you’re looking for. At Livorno, our group tried a couple of local vendors to go more off the beaten path.

Our first stop was Lucca, a beautifully preserved medieval city best known for its intact Renaissance-era walls, which you can walk or cycle along for panoramic views. The historic center is full of charming piazzas, Romanesque churches, and narrow cobblestone streets with a relaxed, less crowded atmosphere. I felt like I could wander the streets and appreciate the town without being rushed along or having to fight for sidewalk space.

If you’re looking to enjoy more of a beach club atmosphere, you can also easily visit our second stop, Forte dei Marmi, a chic beach town on Tuscany’s coast. It started out as a marble port, but today it’s more about stylish beach clubs, designer shops, and a laid-back yet luxurious vibe. Think of it as Italy’s version of the Hamptons—glamorous, but still relaxed enough for strolling through markets or enjoying fresh seafood by the sea. We enjoyed a wonderful beachside lunch from Dalmazia, the beach club and restaurant by Hotel Principe Forte dei Marmi. It felt like something out of a movie to eat local dishes with fresh local ingredients in such a beautiful setting!

Grab a coffee at the cafe in the early morning as you arrive at port to get stunning views like these. (Photo by Nicole Whelan)

Day 4: Portofino

Our stop at Portofino required a tender, which ran frequently and didn’t require much wait at all for both leaving and returning to the ship.

The tender actually made it even more dramatic and enjoyable as we approached the harbor and could see the signature, vibrant pastel colors and trompe-l’œil (French for “deceive the eye”) details with the dramatic, mountainous terrain.

We visited the must-sees of Castello Brown (perched on a hill for sweeping views of the area), nearby San Giorgio church, and the Piazzetta (with its famed boutiques and restaurants); but the highlight of the visit was to La Portofinese. La Portofinese is a sustainable farm and agritourism project in the hills above Portofino, focused on reviving local traditions. It includes terraced vineyards producing small-batch Vermentino wine, a craft beer project, olive groves, and even beekeeping. Visitors can tour the sites, enjoy tastings, and learn about Ligurian agriculture while taking in stunning sea views.

While in the area, our group also decided to check out nearby Santa Margherita and the dazzling Grand Hotel Miramare, a glamorous, family-run grand dame of the Riviera, offering refined historic charm with modern touches, beautifully landscaped gardens and sea views, and luxurious amenities like a beach club, pool, elegant dining, and authentic Ligurian hospitality. For travelers that want to return to Portofino but want a more flexible and accessible option for their itinerary (connected to trains and other transport), Santa Margherita may be the place for you.

Fora Advisors exploring Portofino (Photo by Nicole Whelan)

Day 5: Villefranche-Sur-Mer

We said “arrivederci” to Italy and “bonjour” to France on day five, stopping at the colorful village on the French Riviera between Nice and Monaco.

At this port, I decided to take one of Crystal’s excursions that covered both Nice and Èze in a five-hour experience via air-conditioned bus. Our guide offered insight as we strolled along the Cours Saleya in Nice and took in the trademark French Riviera colors and sights (those umbrellas on the beach are unmistakable!).

We then drove up and along the Moyenne Corniche, high above to get a breathtaking view of Villefranche and Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat before arriving at the medieval village of Èze, almost 1400 feet above sea level! I loved exploring the cobblestone streets and winding pathways, getting a real sense of how locals must have lived there hundreds of years before. Boutiques and restaurants can be found along the way, including the two-Michelin-starred La Chèvre d'Or.

Day 6: Day at sea

This was another opportunity to try out amenities and enjoy entertainment that was missed while exploring other ports, like the putting green / driving range, the pool and hot tub, the tennis and pickleball courts, live performances at the cocktail bar and theater, the tea service at Palm Court, and so much more.

This was also the evening we got to enjoy a White Dress Party full of lively music, balloons, champagne, and celebration of another successful journey. It was on this day I was wishing I was on a longer itinerary to really enjoy the ship, because the Crystal Serenity is truly equipped to keep you well fed and entertained at every turn!

Performers at the recently renovated theater. Our journey included three young and talented tenors, comedians, and Broadway-style performances. (Photo by Nicole Whelan)

Day 7: Disembarking at Barcelona

We arrived at Barcelona around 7 am with disembarkation beginning at 8 am. I considered stowing away for their next adventure but thought better about it.

The disembarkation process was smooth and easy, with our tagged luggage waiting for us at the assigned area as promised. There were plenty of cabs available as well to make an easy transfer into Barcelona’s city center or head to the airport.

I stayed an additional two nights in Barcelona along with a couple of fellow travel advisors, and I would recommend to all clients to take the extra time in both the start and end destinations of your itinerary. Give yourself a chance to take things at your own pace and take in a few more sights before boarding your plane home.

Dining

One of the biggest factors many cruisers consider before booking their journey is the quality of food and food options onboard. With Crystal Cruises, they go above and beyond what is thought of as “cruise food” and bring gourmet dining experiences in a variety of dishes and venues.

Although your cruise fare does not include excursions, it is practically all-inclusive when it comes to food and drink options. There is a supplemental fee when you choose to dine at one of their specialty restaurants and for special offerings on menus, but if you sail on an itinerary with a minimum of 11 nights, you’ll be given a complimentary reservation at each specialty restaurant (to be exact: up to 11 nights: one complimentary reservation at each restaurant; 12 to 22 nights: two complimentary reservations at each restaurant; 23 or more nights: three complimentary reservations at each restaurant). Or, if you stay in a Crystal Penthouse or Junior Crystal Penthouse Suite, you receive unlimited complimentary visits to these specialty restaurants! You absolutely must try Beefbar (the only location of the restaurant outside of its NYC home base) and Umi Uma from world-renowned Chef Matsuhisa Nobu. The food at both specialty restaurants was high quality, cooked perfectly, and Instagram ready with presentation.

The food and service at restaurants and dining included in your fare shouldn’t be ignored either—there was a wonderful variety of dishes each night, and I appreciated that the primary dining room (Waterside) had two sides of the menu: the left side included dishes that were more modern and experimental, while the right side consisted of more traditional and familiar dishes. I never felt like I was trapped into minimal choices, and the waiters were more than happy to recommend how they would combine dishes from either side into a delicious progression.

For days where you want to grab a quick bite and don’t need waiter service, The Marketplace buffet has a fantastic variety of foods for all palates. I really appreciated that their breakfast service included savory options you may see more often in Asian countries, and that dishes were always fresh and the appropriate temperature when served.

Excursions

Crystal Cruises was first started almost 35 years ago, and in the last three years became a part of the Abercrombie & Kent family. This recent change is the perfect fit for this cruise line, which blends luxury accommodations and services with tours and excursions highlighting the local history and flavors beyond the standard day tours. With a variety of tours offered at each port ranging in price and interests (culinary experts, in-depth history-focused exploration, sightseeing via physical activities such as hikes or biking, etc.), Crystal makes sure there is something for everyone at each port. It’s simple to book these early before you board your ship, but don’t be afraid to check with guest services once you’re sailing to see if any spots have opened up on an excursion that was previously “full.”

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our cruises page.