Stunning Norway on Hurtigruten’s Coastal Express

The best way to see Norway is by boat, and we sailed on Hurtigruten’s Midnatsol during our late September trip. Hurtigruten is Norway’s coastal ferry that has transported people between communities for over 100 years. I was a bit hesitant thinking I was paying for what could be a 12 night “ferry” ride, but I was extremely impressed with the beauty of the ship, availability of seating in public spaces, and the dining options and quality. The staff were attentive, informed, and accommodating.

The cruise is perfect for adults looking for a relaxing vacation while enjoying fresh regionally sourced food. Unlike other cruises, there is no entertainment, casinos, pools, or spas. There is a very small gym, but it was adequate enough for me to get in a workout on the days we had little time off the ship. I was told that the scenery would be the entertainment for the times at sea, and it really was. The fjords, mountains, and small villages really did provide the entertainment.

The Hurtigruten staff also provide daily lectures that I found extremely informative and entertaining. Some of the topics include the history of the Vikings, Norway’s geography, and the history of the Sami people. Those interested in fully immersing themselves in Norwegian culture would find this aspect of the trip appealing. Two of my traveling companions were in their late 20s, and this was a highlight for them both.

There were 34 port stops on our roundtrip Coastal Express itinerary. Many of the stops were at night and most were under 30 minutes long. While sleeping in my cabin, I was never able to hear or feel the disembarking or embarking of supplies or passengers. During the day, the short stops provided a unique opportunity to see locals meeting family and friends in their small coastal towns. We were able to get off the ship at least once daily and there were multiple daily excursions to choose from. Our group did a few excursions, but found it was very convenient to walk off the ship and explore sites on our own. Some of our more favorite stops are highlighted below:

Northern Lights

Urke

A very small town way up in the fjord. We went for a hike and explored the area for a few hours.

Alesund

Alesund is one of Norway’s most beautiful cities and is known for its art-nouveau architecture. It truly was spectacular. We were able to walk right into the city center from Midnatsol. We chose to climb the 418 steps to the Fjellstua viewpoint. The climb offers many places to stop, rest, and enjoy the amazing viewpoints.

Trondheim Wharfs

Trondheim

A university town with a population of 216,000, it is the 3rd most populous city in Norway. It is known as the Viking capital of Norway as it was established in 997 as a trading post. We were once again able to just walk off the ship and explore everything on our own. We visited the colorful wharves and the Nidaros Cathedral. Unfortunately, because it was a Sunday, we could not go inside but the outside was beautiful. The cathedral was built in the year 1070 and is still used today for all royal coronations and blessings.

Nidaros Cathedral

Tromso

The capital of Arctic Norway. We were on Hurtigruten as part of the astronomy group, so we visited the Northern Lights Planetarium at the Science Center of Northern Norway. There was a full dome ceiling and we watched movies about the constellations and northern lights

Honningsvag & the North Cape

We took an excursion with Hurtigruten from the port to see the North Cape. The North Cape has been a tourist destination for hundreds of years. People come to see the magnificent beauty of the steep cliffs that rise 307 meters above the Arctic Ocean. We all enjoyed the excursion in one of the Northernmost points in Europe. The visitor center has some interesting exhibits showing travelers throughout the centuries and the role of this area of Norway during WWII.

Kirkenes

On this stop, just a few kilometers from the Russian border, we visited the Snowhotel along with its sled dogs and reindeer. We all loved seeing the dogs! During the months without snow, the dogs are trained by attaching them to a small cart. The eagerness of the dogs to go on the ride was apparent. The dogs were all friendly and we were able to interact with them. After that we entered the snow hotel. Each room had a specific theme and all were different. I am not sure I could sleep in the beds made of ice, but the bedding is supposed to keep you warm during the night. The hotel gave us a snack of reindeer sausage, which is quite tasty, and then we were able to visit the reindeer. Reindeer are all over northern Norway and are owned by the indigenous Sami. They have been herding reindeer for centuries.

Frozen ice sculpture at the Snowhotel

Harstad

At the port of Harstad, we took a narrated bus tour, “A taste of Vesteralen”. Our first stop was to a 13th century medieval stone church, where a short blessing was performed by the local minister. We then walked over to the Trondenes Historical Centre, which displays objects discovered in the region, from the early Stone Age through to Viking times, the Middle Ages, and today. The museum also has a reconstructed farmstead dating from around 1200. I found the reconstructed building fascinating. From Trondenes, the bus took us for a scenic drive across Hinnøya Island to meet our ferry at Gullesfjord. On the ferry, we were served a hot drink and freshly made waffles and lefse.

Medieval church

Lofoten

The Sea Eagle Safari: We were met by a smaller boat and we hopped on board to sail into Trollfjord. The high cliffs and scenery were amazing. The birds were attracted to the boat by fish, and we were able to see many giant sea eagles. They were stunning to watch.

“Hike to Torghatten Mountain”

This was one of my favorite excursions and pictures don’t do it justice. With the unique hole located in the center of the mountain, it is one of the Norwegian coast’s most iconic spots.

Torghatten Mountain

Bergen

Our starting and ending spot and the most beautiful city of the trip. On our disembarking day, we were graced by warm weather and sunny skies. From the city center, we hiked up to Mount Floyen. I highly recommend this hike for those wanting beautiful views of the city. You can also take the funicular to the top if walking is not an option.

The Northern Lights truly were amazing. To the naked eye they are visible but only slightly, but through the camera they are stunning. We were lucky enough to catch them multiple times on our journey. The cruise staff notifies all cruisers when they are visible so that they can’t be missed.

It is important to note that the weather, even in late September, can be cold. It rained a lot of days, so decent rain gear is necessary. I found wearing layers worked well for me. Winter hats and gloves were needed as we had some windy and cold days. We also had sunny and warm days where we didn’t need them. We experienced all types of weather during our 12 night voyage.

Most days the seas were calm and there was little movement of the ship, however we did experience a storm with waves 4–5 meters high. Guests were encouraged to stay in their rooms and dinner times were adjusted so that they would occur during a time where we may be closer to shore. I will say, it was rough! The waves went over the bow and the boat was lurching a lot. I found if I was in the center of the ship I would be ok, but I felt quite queasy in the bow where the public space was. The servers at dinner did an amazing job navigating the dining room, carrying all of the food and drink to guests. It certainly made the trip authentically Norwegian, and in retrospect I am glad for the experience. However, for those prone to sea sickness, I would make sure I had medicine readily available for times like these.

Crossing the Arctic Circle was most certainly a highlight of the voyage, and the staff of Midnatsol did a creative job of “blessing” its passengers... A ladle full of ice water down your back meant we were ready for all experiences beyond latitude 66° and 33’.

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