From Everest to Tigers: 20 Days Around Nepal

Coming from Florida (zero feet of elevation), our biggest concern was handling Nepal’s high altitude, so we built in a few days in Katmandu (4,600 feet) before our trek.

We changed money (cash is king here), sampled all kinds of food, and went shopping. Wow—there are amazing bargains of every kind in Nepal, from brand-name (sort of) clothing to hiking gear, hemp bags and cashmere scarves, and precious teas and gems.

In search of Everest, we took a terrific helicopter ride to Lukla (9,337 feet). This little town is the jumping-off point for Everest’s scenic flights and treks—and is the most dangerous airport in the world. Luckily, we had an easy landing. But the weather soon deteriorated, so we didn’t get to fly near Everest as hoped.

After a harrowing 10-hour drive to Dharapani (6,100 feet), we started our hike of the Annapurna Circuit. This is the world’s 10th tallest mountain (with the highest death rate for climbers), with a massive 30-mile ridge. The entire route around Annapurna takes 20 days or more—our plan was 10 days along the spectacular northern leg.

Ngawal: elevation of 12,000 feet

Prayer wheels at Ghyaru

Monastery above Ngawal

We had a guide and a porter, which was invaluable to us. We learned about local customs, had help in each village and teahouse, as English is not prevalent, and hiked with just day packs. The weather was cool and bright, with majestic mountains peering out from the clouds now and then as we trekked along the road or paths, up steep stairs or grueling switchbacks.

Lunch break in Manang with Gangapurna

We asked our guide to find us the most modern tea houses possible, with private bathrooms and Western-style toilets. (This is more challenging the higher you go.) Unheated rooms were basic, with wooden frames and blankets (we were happy to have sleeping bags as well); each tea house had similar menus of dal bhat (unlimited lentils and rice), momos (dumplings), soup and noodles, curries and fried rice, and tea—lots of tea.

Long story short: I caught a bad cold, which depleted my ability to handle the altitude. To my deep dismay, I could not complete the hike I had been planning for five years.

But I was thrilled that my daughter Regan, 37, conquered Thorong La Pass (17,769 feet) as planned. That’s the height of 12 Empire State Buildings! Starting at pitch-black 4 am, under snowy conditions, she went up 2,970 feet in three hours and down 5,687 feet in about the same time.

My daughter, Regan, at Thorlung La pass—17,000 feet!

We reunited in Pokhara, where we enthusiastically went paragliding. The scenery was great from a mile up, but we both got nauseous as our pilots twirled to catch the thermal winds.

Paragliding at Pokhara

Our final stop in Nepal was to the remote Bardiya National Park, home to 125 tigers, as well as one-horned rhinos, some elephants, and many birds. Only 26,000 tourists visit annually—mostly Nepalese. For two days, we jounced around the jungle in blistering temperatures, waiting for hours at the river and watering holes. Our payoff: two tigers, at a distance, for just a few minutes before they sauntered away. We were surprised, and disappointed, by how skittish these apex predators were. But we saw tigers in the wild!

One of two tigers we spotted at Bardiya National Park

After nearly three weeks, we left the beautiful people and scenery of Nepal for Tibet. On our flight, we finally caught the elusive Everest, towering above the clouds and the entire Himalayan range. Breathtaking!

We finally saw Everest flying from Katmandu to Lhasa, Tibet!

You can build up hiking strength, but you really can’t prepare for such high altitude unless you live higher up. Check with your doctor before departure about your fitness and whether a high-altitude drug like Diamox may be useful. Upon arrival to Nepal, walk slowly, drink plenty of water and tea, and be mindful of your heart rate, headaches, breathing constraints, and sleep disruptions. As you get higher, it will take you a few days or more to acclimatize while your body produces more red blood cells to carry oxygen throughout. Nepal is rapidly growing as an adventurer’s destination and many tours are available. Let me help you get to the top of the world!

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our Nepal page.