Coastal Croatia, Elevated: Dubrovnik, Split & Hvar Through My Eyes

Dubrovnik

Valamar Hotel President

Dubrovnik was my starting point and instantly set the tone for the trip: sea air, dramatic views, and a sense that the coastline and city are inseparable. At the Valamar Collection Dubrovnik President Hotel, every room faces the water, with balconies that make you want to sit outside just a little longer, even when jet lag kicks in. An elevated, multi-course dinner on property highlighted Croatian comfort dishes reimagined in a modern way, and the service felt warm and welcoming without being stiff.

In contrast, Villa Dubrovnik offers a chic, boutique take on the city—contemporary, intimate, and very much a “treat yourself” kind of stay, with suites that feel like private hideaways and thoughtful touches like beautiful pastries and coffee that make it hard to leave.

View of Old Town from Villa Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik experiences

My time in Dubrovnik’s Old Town was shaped by a guide who focused less on rehearsed dates and more on how to actually move through the city. We navigated around crowds, ducked into quieter alleys, and picked up smart tricks for accessing the city walls at the right time of day. Yes, you can see a few Game of Thrones filming spots, but for me, the highlight was the feeling of being in a living, breathing city that still belongs to locals—not just a backdrop for visitors.

From there, heading out by boat to a quiet island village where only around 400 people live added another dimension. Tasting homemade white, rosé, and red wines in a private home, learning about olive oil production, and hearing stories from a former oil-tanker captain made the coastline feel intimate and human, not just scenic.

Boat transfers

Ston

The transfer from Dubrovnik to Split, with a stop in Ston, might be my favorite “travel day” I’ve had in a long time.

At a family-run oyster farm, I tasted oysters straight from the bay, both raw with just lemon and broiled with herbs grown on the property, followed by a simple yet extraordinary lunch of sea bream and roasted vegetables from their garden. A boat ride through the oyster fields revealed how technical and meticulous the cultivation process is—everything from how the larvae settle into nets to how oysters are repositioned as they grow.

Oyster farm in Ston

Arriving in Split after that, I checked into the Cornaro Hotel, where a rooftop bar with blankets for cool evenings and generous, shared plates of local meats, cheeses, and seafood created a relaxed, convivial atmosphere.

Split

Split

Split itself won me over with its balance of old and new. A guided walk through Diocletian’s Palace and the Old Town made the history feel approachable and alive, and a stay at Hotel Fermai, a boutique property in the MGallery collection, underscored how well the city does style and substance together.

One of the most special evenings of the trip was a cooking experience in a local chef’s home: a beautifully decorated kitchen with vintage glassware, art-filled walls, and an open door to a little balcony with herbs. We sipped wine, tasted anchovies prepared two different ways, sampled fresh figs with ricotta that put typical versions to shame, and enjoyed mussels cooked perfectly—never rubbery, never fishy, just simple and exquisite. It felt like being a guest, not a customer.

Private cooking class

From Split, the journey continued by boat to Hvar, with mountain and coastline views that showcased how dramatic Croatia’s landscapes truly are.

Hvar

On Hvar, I visited a family home in the hills where we cooked together, learned about local heritage, and even decorated traditional cookies—a lovely experience that I’d tweak and tighten in length for clients, but full of heart and history.

The stay at Maslina Resort took things to another level: a villa with five bedrooms, two master suites, a full kitchen, indoor and outdoor dining areas, a heated pool and hot tub, and an overall design philosophy centered on sustainability. It was a place where breakfast could be enjoyed slowly at the dining table or on the terrace, yoga was on offer for those who wanted it, and the spa and communal pools gave non-villa guests their own serene spaces. A hosted dinner with dishes like burrata, pillowy gnocchi, and tiramisu paired with excellent wine highlighted just how strong the culinary program is.

Hvar Town

Hvar experiences

Some of my favorite Hvar moments were spent away from the resort, though. A mountaintop “secret lunch” in an olive orchard, with a functioning hydroponic garden and a long table overlooking the sea, felt like something you’d dream up for a special celebration. Courses were served across different parts of the space, giving us time to walk, chat, and absorb the view.

Later, a walking tour of Hvar Town, even with the chaos of a Spartan race in the background, offered context about how the island developed and changed over time.

We wrapped one evening with drinks at a small, flower-framed cocktail bar and a visit to the original capital, Stari Grad, which charmed me with its evening cafés and easy half-hour waterfront walk back toward the resort area.

The final night: A houseboat in Split

To close the trip, a final night back in Split—this time on a modern, thoughtfully designed houseboat—brought everything full circle: water, city, and comfort all in one. The space had a larger-than-expected bathroom, a cozy circular couch, multiple seating zones, a whirlpool on deck, and a bedroom with USB ports by the bed (a small but appreciated touch).

After walking around Split to pick up last-minute souvenirs, I enjoyed an excellent sushi dinner and later met a friend for an outdoor waterfront meal of ribeye and tuna as the city quieted around 10 pm. It was the perfect, understated ending to a trip that managed to feel both full and restorative.

Luxury boat transfer

• Pacing is everything: With so much food and so many experiences, it’s easy to over-plan. I recommend building in true down time (especially on Hvar) to enjoy your hotel, villa, spa, or pool without rushing from one activity to the next.

• Boat & ferry logistics: Ferries and private boats are wonderfully straightforward when they’re planned around your flights, hotel check-in times, and luggage needs. I help coordinate these pieces so you’re not worrying about where your bags are or whether you’ll make the next crossing.

• Stairs, cobblestones & footwear: Dubrovnik, Split, and Hvar all involve uneven surfaces and steps, particularly in Old Towns and hilltop spots. Comfortable, supportive shoes make a big difference, and I can help adjust the itinerary for travelers who prefer gentler walking routes.

• Season & crowds: Visiting outside of peak summer (think late spring or early fall) lets you enjoy pleasant weather and lighter crowds, especially important for walking tours, city walls, and popular viewpoints.

• Food & dietary preferences: Croatian cuisine is generous and often rich, but there’s a lot of flexibility. From seafood-forward menus to heavier home-style cooking, I can work with chefs and guides to accommodate preferences and dietary needs while still keeping meals special.

• How I can help: Because I’ve experienced these routes, properties, and experiences firsthand, I know which combinations make sense for different types of travelers—whether you want more time in Dubrovnik, a shorter stay on Hvar, or a bigger focus on food, wine, or villa living.

If this version of Croatia—sea-view balconies, oyster bays, island villas, home-cooked meals, and houseboat sunsets—speaks to you, I’d love to help you experience it in your own way. I can recommend the right hotels, secure special experiences with trusted local partners, and design a seamless route that fits your travel style, budget, and timing.

Reach out to me to start planning your Dalmatian Coast escape, and we’ll turn these ideas into your trip.

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our Croatia page.