Songs Beneath the Surface: Swimming with Humpbacks in Okinawa

Okinawa is a destination that I think really gets overlooked when people travel to Japan. It’s not Kyoto or Tokyo, but it brings such a slowdown to some of these other Japanese cities. Okinawa, especially in the spring/summer, is beyond beautiful! The beaches and the flora are everything you’d want in an island escape.

We spent three incredible days here, walking along the beaches; we found local markets and cuisine, and the big hitter, went swimming with humpback whales!

While in Okinawa, Naha in particular, we found Makishi Public Market (Naha): Okinawa’s “kitchen,” where locals buy seafood, meats, and produce. Great for tasting fresh sashimi or Okinawan specialties like taco rice, goya champuru, and rafute (braised pork belly). There was one particular stall that had so much fresh seafood you could pick all sorts of things like crab, lobster, urchins, eel, and so much more and they would cook it for you right there!

I also recommend hitting Kokusaidori Norengai which is an incredible food hall, along with Kokusai Street Food Village. We found some incredible bites all over these two spots. I also have to mention Naha Kokusai Dori Shopping Street because it’s massive. It was nice to walk around. We popped into a bar for a drink and wandered the shops that were selling everything from t-shirts to coral jewelry, which I have to admit there were some great pieces.

Now for the main event! The whole reason I came to Okinawa was to swim with the humpback whales, and I can’t wait to share how it all went down.

Before arriving, I connected with one of the best tour operators I could have hoped for. Once our plans were set and payment made, I was ready for the adventure. I met him at the docks at 5:30 am—he spoke minimal English, but Google Translate got us through, and it quickly became clear he was not only an incredible guide but also a talented photographer. Check out some of his work below! He was kind, patient, and extremely experienced, which immediately put me at ease.

We joined a few other swimmers and set off. About an hour and a half out from the coast, we spotted our first whales. We jumped into the warm water with our snorkeling gear, and even before we could see them, we could hear their haunting songs echoing beneath the surface—one of the most mesmerizing sounds I’ve ever experienced.

We moved to another spot, and then it happened: there she was—a massive humpback calf, gliding gracefully through the water, with her enormous mother just beneath her. Watching them together was magical. Mom would occasionally rest near the ocean floor while the curious calf swam up to check us out. Over the next four hours, we spotted five or six whales and calves, even a small pod, dancing and exploring around us. By the end, our guides told us it had been one of the best days they’d had in a long time.

That day was everything I had dreamed of and more. Swimming alongside these gentle giants in the crystal-clear waters of Okinawa was a once-in-a-lifetime experience, and I can honestly say it ranks among the best days of my life.

Kenishi Sumiyoshi

Alexana Rotunda

Kenishi Sumiyoshi

Alexana Rotunda

The time of year that we went to swim with the whales was the end of January and the water was very choppy. So if you get seasick easily, I would think hard before booking. On the other hand, Okinawa is definitely a destination I would recommend in spring and summer when the water is much calmer and snorkeling or diving comes much easier.

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our Okinawa page.