Standing the Test of Time: 3 Historic Hotels in San Francisco

Palace Hotel

The Palace has long been my go-to San Francisco hotel. It always seems to fit the bill, whether for a stay-cation, a work trip or a proper getaway. Claiming to be the most historic hotel in the city, first opening in 1875, it’s been through several incarnations since then, surviving the initial impacts of the 1906 earthquake only to be hollowed out by the ensuing fire. The latest round of renovations in 2015 spruced up guest rooms and refreshed the property’s spirit of Gilded Age luxury.

As you enter the lobby, stop and smell the larger-than-life flesh flower arrangement and greet the friendly bell staff before entering the expansive, stained-glass-domed Garden Court. Don’t feel embarrassed when your jaw drops – everyone's does. The public spaces in this hotel are delightful and worth a visit for afternoon tea or Sunday brunch, even if you don’t stay here.

Of course, I highly recommend staying here. The 556 guest rooms exude a comfortable elegance and have enough space to move around (the smallest are 300 square feet), which is not always the case in historic hotels. Crown molding accents the high ceilings, draperies frame tall windows, and well-chosen marble and tile adorn the bathrooms. I especially love the Palace-monogrammed door knobs reminding you it’s the careful details that keep history and elegance alive.

The stunning, heated indoor pool with yet another glass-domed roof is a showstopper. It’s massive - 60 ft x 20 ft - and wonderfully relaxing. The other must-visit spot is the Pied Piper, a watering hole and restaurant named for the Maxfield Parrish mural of the twisted fairy tale behind the bar. The last time I went in for a cocktail, I was surrounded by a mix of couples on vacation, winemakers attending a conference and locals enjoying an evening out.

The Palace Hotel’s location on Market Street is convenient to the financial district, Jackson Square, the Ferry Building, SFMOMA and transit options. The area of town, like many parts of the city, has been impacted by the extreme homeless situation, but that’s a reality of today’s San Francisco experience. The Palace has remained a stalwart refuge in a changing urban environment.

Fairmont San Francisco

A commanding presence atop Nob Hill, the Fairmont San Francisco exudes old-world grandeur. The lobby is especially spectacular during the holidays, when a giant gingerbread house takes center stage. It’s truly enchanting for little ones - when our son was a toddler, we could barely pull him away. You can book a festive holiday tea, one of two Santa Suites for full Christmas immersion, and even a private dining experience inside the gingerbread house!

All year-round guests in one of the 544 luxurious rooms enjoy marble bathrooms with separate shower and bathtub, Le Labo amenities, and fluffy robes. Most rooms offer spectacular San Francisco views, and those with sofa beds comfortably accommodate families. Historic architectural details and elegant flourishes punctuate the decor.

My favorite part of this historic gem is the Tonga Room. It’s an over-the-top tiki destination built around the hotel’s historic indoor pool, complete with rainstorms, exotic drinks and a full menu of Polynesian specialties. Most nights there’s even a live band that plays on a boat in the middle of the indoor lagoon. It’s open to all ages until 10pm and then shifts to 21+.

Getting to stay in a Beaux Arts landmark is a truly unique experience, and the Fairmont’s exceptional service makes this property a top option among San Francisco’s historic hotels.

Westin St. Francis

The Westin St. Francis is filled with memories. I’ve stayed here for a childhood friend’s wedding, as a home base while looking for an apartment when we were relocating to San Francisco, and to ride out a hurricane before returning to our home at the time in Miami.

With a prime location on Union Square, the St. Francis holds the memories of thousands of guests since opening in 1904. The list of 20th-century celebrities who have stayed here is extensive… notable notables include Charlie Chaplin, Cecil B. DeMille, Isadora Duncan and Salvador Dali. Then, of course, there are dozens of U.S. Presidents and heads of state. The last time I spent an evening at St. Francis, I was hanging out with rock stars sipping bourbon in the Clock Bar.

Book a room in the Landmark Building, the original edifice right on Powell Street with its historic cable car line. (The hotel’s Tower Building is a 1970s construction with far less charm.) While you’re at it, go for a room with a Union Square view. You can pick up provisions at the local markets and wine shops and enjoy a little charcuterie with a Napa cabernet from the comfort of your own room with an iconic city view.

Whenever I’m in San Francisco, I’ll always make a stop at the St. Francis, if only to wonder at the stunning grandfather clock in the lobby, serving as a meeting point since 1907: “Meet me at the clock!” The black and white photos that line the walls of public areas and staircases chronicle the very Hollywood history of this quintessential San Francisco landmark.

Of course things change, but there's something about these historic San Francisco hotels that takes us back to a gilded bygone era and allows us to experience contemporary comforts amid old-world glamor.

This trip report is part of our ongoing series on travel to San Francisco. In need of further inspiration? Check out Marius Josanu’s guide, Weekending in San Francisco.