10 Days Through the Last Frontier: What Holland America Got Right (and What Surprised Me)

Alaska has always held a mythical pull: a land of grizzlies, glaciers, and vast, rugged beauty. But for many travelers (especially those with young kids), the idea of planning a trip to such a remote and expansive place can feel daunting. That’s where the CruiseTour format truly shines. Combining the ease of cruise travel with the immersion of a guided land tour, Holland America’s Alaska CruiseTour offered my family an unforgettable, perfectly orchestrated adventure—with plenty of surprises along the way.

In June 2025, we set off on a 10-day journey from Fairbanks to Vancouver, weaving through Denali, Anchorage, Glacier Bay, and the Inside Passage aboard the Nieuw Amsterdam, while staying in lodge-style accommodations on land and sailing in a Neptune Suite with a wraparound balcony at sea. We traveled by coach, train, ferry, and ship—and yes, we brought our toddler.

Holland America Denali Lodge

Lido pool

Kayaking the Inside Passage

Here’s what Holland America got absolutely right—and the details that surprised even a seasoned traveler like me.

Highlight reel: 5 unforgettable experiences

Private Glacier Bay viewing with park ranger narration

Glacier Bay was the highlight I expected, but the way we experienced it was beyond what I imagined. From our wraparound Neptune Suite balcony, we sipped cocoa in plush robes while a National Park Ranger narrated the sights on our in-room TV channel. With binoculars in hand and hot drinks from the Neptune Lounge, we watched Margerie Glacier thunder into the bay without having to jostle for deck space. Our 2-year-old even got to watch chunks of ice float by in peace, curled up beside us.

Glacier Bay National Park

The McKinley Explorer train ride: Denali to Whittier

Glass-domed railcars with 180-degree views, comfy seats, and surprisingly great food made this a standout moment. We watched caribou graze, waved to rafters, and enjoyed table-service breakfast in the dining car. The ability to see so much of untouched Alaska while sitting comfortably with our toddler napping across our laps made this segment especially luxurious.

McKinley Explorer Train

Denali on a clear day

Kayaking in Haines (via ferry from Skagway)

Haines felt like Alaska before tourism. Instead of staying in bustling Skagway, we took a ferry across to this sleepy town for a guided kayak trip on Chilkat Lake. The scenery was cinematic: snowcapped peaks, eagle nests overhead, and mirror-still water. Our guide packed snacks and took the lead while we paddled with our daughter nestled safely between us. It was one of the most peaceful and authentic parts of the trip.

Gold panning & salmon bake in Juneau

Yes, it was a little kitschy—and yes, it was a blast. Gold panning was easy and toddler-friendly (we all struck gold!), and the post-tour salmon bake felt like a summer camp dream: grilled salmon, cornbread, blueberry cake, baked beans, a waterfall, a fire pit, and a s’mores station. It was low-effort, big reward, and totally toddler approved.

Next-level service, especially for families

From a fruit platter and chocolate milk waiting for our daughter at the Denali Lodge to the concierge team in the Neptune Lounge who helped with last-minute dining reservations, the service stood out. Club Orange dining always seated us immediately. Every team member we met made an effort to engage with our daughter—not just tolerate her. As a parent, that kind of warmth is priceless.

Glacier margarita at Hubbard Glacier

Real talk: The things that surprised us

Even when the big picture is seamless, there are always little surprises—some charming, others mildly frustrating. Here’s what stood out.

The buffet onboard was meh—but there’s a fix

While convenient, the buffet’s quality was inconsistent. The Main Dining Room and specialty dining were far superior. Club Orange gave us quieter, faster meals with better service—perfect when you’re wrangling a 2-year-old. We also relied on room service, which was a hidden gem, especially for early breakfasts or relaxed lunches during nap time.

No AC in some lodges

At the Denali Lodge, our room was spacious and comfortable but had no air conditioning, which surprised us during an unusually warm June. This was also the case in Fairbanks. Fortunately, the windows opened wide, and the evening air cooled quickly, but for those sensitive to heat, it’s something to know.

Some land days are long

The Wilderness Tour in Denali is four to eight hours on a modified school bus, albeit with frequent stops, engaging guides, and wildlife sightings: caribou and moose. Our toddler handled it well with snacks, a blanket, and naps, but it’s important to set expectations—this is backcountry access, not a luxury transfer.

First Nations Cultural Experience in Denali National Park

Gala nights onboard are surprisingly casual

We packed formal outfits but found them unnecessary. A sundress or collared shirt was more than enough. Gala Night has a name, but the dress code felt more “polished resort casual” than “formal cruise chic.” Pack light—you won’t need heels.

Family focus: Alaska with a 2-year-old

We were told this trip wasn’t ideal for toddlers—and we’re so glad we didn’t listen. Here’s why it worked for us.

Transfers were effortless

Luggage was collected and delivered between hotels and the cruise—no schlepping. Transfers were handled smoothly: coach, rail, ferry, and ship. We never worried about the next step.

Suite life made all the difference

Our Neptune Suite gave us more space, a full tub (yes, we did bubble baths while sailing past glaciers!), and that wraparound balcony. It made naps easier and gave us grown-up time even when we stayed in the room.

Meals were flexible and welcoming

Every restaurant had toddler-friendly options: fruit, pasta, yogurt, and milk were offered without hesitation. The staff went out of their way to make our daughter feel welcome, and we never felt like we were bothering anyone—a huge plus for traveling parents.

Why work with a travel advisor (like me)?

This wasn’t just a vacation—it was a carefully curated experience with dozens of little decisions that made a big difference. When you work with me, you’re not just booking a trip—you’re gaining insider expertise and real-world testing. Here’s what I did behind the scenes:

• Shipped our luggage ahead of time to avoid airport chaos and make transfers toddler-friendly.

• Booked the correct side of the ship for the best glacier and port views.

• Chose the excursions that balanced local flavor with toddler-friendliness.

• Matched room types to our travel style and child’s needs (and got Club Orange access!).

• Paced the itinerary to include downtime, avoid burnout, and maximize memories.

If you’re dreaming of Alaska—or any complex itinerary—having a professional in your corner makes all the difference. I’ll help you sort the logistics, elevate the experience, and focus on what matters most: the wonder, the wildlife, and the time together.

Ready to write your own Alaska story?

Let’s build your version of the Last Frontier—complete with wild landscapes, smooth sailing, and thoughtful touches you’ll feel in every moment.

Pro tips for toddlers on Holland America or any CruiseTour

• Bring a lightweight stroller—everything is walkable but spread out.

• A white noise machine helps in changing environments.

• Use Club Orange dining or room service for low-stress meals.

• Pack favorite snacks and a tiny comfort item (we used a blanket) for longer transfers.

• Ask for a Pack-n-Play early—it was ready for us at every stop.

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our cruises page.