Oaxaca by Hand: The Creative Visitor’s Guide to Textiles, Pottery & Craft

Take a workshop at Subterráneos

Take a workshop at Subterráneos—if you only have time for one creative experience in Oaxaca, make it this. The printmakers at Subterráneos welcome you into their world with ink-stained hands and an infectious passion for their craft. I spent an afternoon here carving blocks and rolling ink, and left with a little piece of Oaxaca to take home. Even if you can’t squeeze in a class, stop by their gallery. You’ll recognize their bold, oversized prints immediately—they’re iconic in Oaxaca, sprawling the streets.

Visit Museo de las Culturas, Santo Domingo

Museo de las Culturas, Santo Domingo. There’s something about this place that makes you slow down. Wandering through the former monastery, with light pouring through arched windows, I felt as though I’d stepped into a painting. The exhibitions hold treasures—pre-Hispanic gold, sacred artifacts, and local craft, but it was the building itself that made it even more special. From the cool stone halls to the views over the botanical gardens, it’s the perfect refuge during the heat of the day, and one of my favorite memories from our two weeks in the city.

Explore Teotitlán del Valle

Forty-five minutes east of Oaxaca City, Teotitlán del Valle feels like arriving in another time. Looms clack in family courtyards, and wool dyed with cochineal and indigo hangs in the sun like a painter’s palette. Visiting here was one of the most memorable parts of my trip, not only for the beauty of the rugs, but for the warmth of the artisans, who were so eager to share their process. A little Spanish goes a long way (but Google Translate sure helps!). Don’t miss the central square, where the church stands framed by mountains, Casa Viviana, and Vida Nueva. It’s a place where craft, community, and landscape all weave together.

Wander through San Bartolo Coyotepec

Just thirty minutes south of Oaxaca City lies San Bartolo Coyotepec, the birthplace of the world-famous barro negro. I’ll never forget the moment I first held a piece in my hands, the pottery is so smooth, so dark, it feels alive with history. Visiting the studios here gives you a rare chance to see the process up close. The artisans are generous with their time, happy to share stories and let you peek behind the curtain. When you bring a piece home, it carries that connection with it, a reminder that it was shaped by hands that have practiced this tradition for generations.

Visit San Martín Tilcajete

About forty-five minutes from Oaxaca City, San Martín Tilcajete feels like stepping into the world of dreams. Alebrijes, fantastical painted creatures, peek from doorways and line dusty roads, each one bursting with personality. Here, I wandered from workshop to workshop, watching blocks of wood transform into dragons and coyotes under the hands of patient artisans. The town itself is covered in murals, making every corner a delight to stumble upon. Have a meal at Almú Tilcajete, where the day’s menu is scrawled by hand and every dish feels like it was made just for you.

Stroll through Barrio Jalatlaco

This neighborhood feels like Oaxaca’s best-kept secret. One minute you’re in the busy center, and the next you’re strolling cobblestone streets where papel picado flutters above and walls bloom with murals. I spent an afternoon here just wandering, stopping for coffee in hidden cafés and peeking into little artisan shops. It’s a place that insists you slow down and notice details, the kind of neighborhood where even laundry hanging across a courtyard feels like art.

Stop by Cooperativa 1050°

The first time I stepped into Cooperativa 1050°, I was struck by how beautifully it blends tradition with modern design. Shelves lined with hand-shaped bowls and vases feel both timeless and fresh, each piece fired with centuries of knowledge. This isn’t just a shop, but a collective effort to honor and sustain the region’s ceramic traditions. I left with a book about the collective, and the stories of the artisans they support, such an incredible keepsake to remember my time here.

Visit Taller Siqueiros

Step into the studio of muralist David Alfaro Siqueiros, where walls are alive with bold color and revolutionary spirit. Guided stories bring his process to life, revealing how art can be both a personal expression and a tool for change. A highlight in Oaxaca City.

Rrres

Rrres is a design studio where tradition meets fearless creativity. Working hand-in-hand with local artisans, they transform the region’s resources into rugs, textiles, ceramics, sculptures, and furniture that honor heritage while pushing craft into new territory. A visit feels like stepping into the heart of a living collaboration, where every piece tells the story of its makers.

Kiyo Café

Kiyo Café feels less like a coffee shop and more like stumbling into a friend’s perfectly designed living room that also happens to double as a tiny gallery. The space itself makes you want to spend the whole morning there, every detail feels intentional. I still dream about their lemon crème brûlée pastry. The coffee is excellent, but it’s the mix of art, design, and atmosphere that makes it worth lingering.

CRUDO

Dining at CRUDO is like being let in on a secret. With just six seats, it feels more like a dinner party than a restaurant. Chef Ricardo Arellano moves quietly but deliberately, handing over one small plate after another—each one surprising, delicate, and layered with flavors you didn’t expect. One moment you’re tasting nixtamalized papaya with kampachi, the next an eel handroll wrapped in smoky agave pulp. The courses are light, but you leave feeling completely transported.

Levadura de Olla

Levadura de Olla is one of those places that feels both intimate and expansive at the same time. Chef Thalía Barrios brings the flavors of her hometown of San Mateo Yucutindoó straight to the table, grounding each dish in memory and tradition. Eating here feels like traveling without leaving your chair, the markets, the rural kitchens, the hands that grew the ingredients are all somehow woven into each plate. It’s the kind of food that lingers long after the meal is over.

Expendio Tradición

Expendio Tradición is the kind of place you think you’re just popping into for a mezcal tasting, and then three hours later you’re still there, glass in hand, with plates scattered across the table. The mezcal selection is incredible, curated with both reverence and playfulness. The kitchen matches that same energy, serving dishes that honor Oaxacan flavors while still feeling fresh and modern. It’s where tradition feels alive, not preserved.

LIA Café

An inviting stop for specialty coffee paired with local goods and crafts. Perfect for a mid-morning pause as you wander through the historic center. We bought a set of handblown glasses here that were so special. Each piece in the store is carefully curated.

La Cocina de Humo

La Cocina de Humo is all about one element: smoke. Every dish feels like a conversation with fire—layered, slow, and deeply rooted in tradition. The experience is as much about watching and learning as it is about eating, they offer cooking classes and even sell local pottery, which lets you bring the memory home with you.

Criollo

Criollo sits in an old neighborhood, but what happens inside feels quietly radical. Chef Luis Arellano takes what’s seasonal and what’s local, and then reimagines it through the lens of Oaxaca’s coast, valleys, mountains, and Isthmus. The tasting menu is thoughtful without being fussy, the kind of meal where every plate feels connected to a bigger story. Dining here is like sitting down with the spirit of Oaxaca itself, warm, generous, and evolving.