7 Days in Switzerland With Kids: Chocolate, Trains, & Lakeside Leaps

We landed, dropped our bags at the Four Seasons, and immediately got swept into Geneva’s lakefront energy. Picture a festival scene meets old-world elegance: flower clocks, lakeside carousels, and those delightful little tourist trains zipping past like clockwork (Swiss ones, of course).

The kids swam in a pool at the foot of the Jet d’Eau, and we wrapped the day with fries and rosé at Bains des Pâquis—local, scenic, and weirdly chic.

This was one of those days where you look around and wonder, “Is everyone here a well-hydrated citizen of paradise?” Geneva’s city parks are the real deal: massive, leafy, and dotted with both water playgrounds and climbing structures that make American parks look like sad mulch zones.

We started in Jardin Anglais (carousel—check, fountain—check, views—check), then zigzagged between tree tunnels, green lawns, and play zones all over the lakefront. And just when someone got cranky—boom, another crisp alpine fountain to fill our bottles or splash our faces. Midday, we went down to the lake and the kids immediately spotted the bright red tourist train, which of course, we had to ride—twice.

We hopped on a train to Montreux (cleanest travel ever—white jeans survived) and set up shop on a grassy lakeside patch near the Fairmont Le Montreux Palace. The kids swam out to the floating dock like they were auditioning for “Survivor: Switzerland,” then climbed a pine tree barefoot.

No screens, no tantrums—just chips, baguettes, and a bottle of chilled local Chasselas. Bliss.

If your kids have ever dreamed of eating chocolate for science, this is the day. We trained to Broc for a tour of the Cailler Chocolate Factory, complete with history, buttons to press, and—yes—a tasting room.

We followed that with medieval castles and melted cheese in Gruyères, which looks like Belle’s village from Beauty and the Beast, but with more fondue and fewer talking teacups.

Hop a train from Montreux to Lausanne—but make it fun. We rode in the SBB Family Car, a themed second-class car with soft play zones, whimsical décor, and endless views. The kids entertained themselves while we sat within shouting distance, pretending this was all part of the plan. It’s short (just over an hour), but trust: they’ll talk about it for days.

Note: Seats in the family car section can’t be reserved—you’ll need to board early and hope for an open bench near the play zone. Look for the “FA” designation when booking, or check the train composition on the SBB Mobile App to see if your train includes one.

We rolled into Lausanne and promptly declared it the Frenchest city in Switzerland. This lakeside stunner is equal parts Olympic energy, old-world elegance, and oh look, another charming carousel by the water. If Geneva is the diplomat, Lausanne is the flirty younger sibling with better shoes.

Start at the Olympic Museum, where interactive exhibits had the kids sprinting, leaping, and generally burning off croissant energy. There’s enough touchscreens and trivia to keep adults interested, too—plus a terrace café with jaw-dropping lake views if you need a break from parenting.

Then stroll down through the Parc Olympique, which spills into the Ouchy waterfront, a scene straight from a Wes Anderson storyboard: pedal boats, swans, impeccably dressed retirees, and children devouring ice cream with operatic intensity.

Lunch: Grab a table at Château d’Ouchy (surprisingly kid-friendly if your kids are bread-forward) or picnic like a pro by picking up charcuterie and pastries from La Ferme Vaudoise and plopping down lakeside with a view of the Alps and no agenda.

Need-to-know:

• Lausanne is very walkable, but steep. Start high and work your way downhill—trust us.

• SBB trains run frequently from Geneva and Montreux; about 30–40 minutes.

• The Metro M2 is adorable and saves your calves.

• The Olympic Museum has lockers, great bathrooms, and a café that won’t make you regret your life choices.

Train: Lausanne to Geneva (Dining Car available on some InterCity routes)

On your return to Geneva (or en route to the airport), book a mid-morning InterCity train with a Dining Car. Sit down to rösti, sparkling apple juice, and proper cutlery as the landscape glides by.

The kids spread out with books and fries, and we raised a toast to Swiss efficiency, cheese-forward parenting, and a week well-played.